Big problam
Last night I pulled the KnN out and cleaned it and drained the water seperator and gave her a nice bath. And then this morning I oiled the filter real well and took off with my wife and son to a friends birthday party.
Well on the way there, we were in a line of traffic. And the traffic started to move so I put my right foot down expecting some thing to happen but nothing did. So I tried again but this time the motor just died.
Luckely we were close to the party so my wife and son got a ride from friends and I sat and waited for a tow truck While I was waiting I checked of the fuses and all of the plugs that I could reach and every thing seemed fine. I then cralled under and tapped on the tank and it sounded kinda empty to me..
When the tow truck arrived an hour and a half later!! I wanted to see if maybe my fuel gauge was off so I had him take me to the nearest gas station and got some fuel. But it still didnt start..
So $175 later Im here at home trying to figuer out the probblam. And from what I have read it sounds like that dam bosch pump.
Now is this a injecter pump? If so how hard is it to change and where is the cheapest place to get one?
I know this a long post but I am really getting frustrated with this truck. In the three weeks I have had it I have put two batteries a nd pads and rotors on it.
Just some info on my rig. It is a 2000 2500 club cab with the 5 speed 2wd with 126000 miles for $12,000. It is a very clean rig that My friend found for me .Supposedly it was a one owner old man driven truck. But the more I look in to her the more I doubt it. The KnN and 4" exsaust make me wonder!?
What do yall think, should I scrapp it???? I am so ****** right now......

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Lets try to figure this out. How long did it run after you drained the seperator?

How empty was the tank? If nearly dry, you probably got air in the system. Try never to run the tank below 1/4. I think that tank is 35 or 36 gallon.

Not being a smarty, but are you sure you got the drain closed all the way? Could suck air and loose prime.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? May have a bad lift pump. There are flow tests you can do if no guage. I'm not sure on the values, but it's here on the site somewhere or someone will chime in.

Have you tried to read any codes? The only one that you do not want to see for sure is 0216. That indicates the injection pump.

You might try cracking a couple injectors to see if you got air in the system. Be very careful. Fuel will have enough pressure to hurt you.

That truck is just now getting broke in at that milage, hang tough and this bunch will help you figure it out.

Ed

 

Well, to start this you must find out if you ran it out of fuel. A diesel won't prime up like a gas motor. Just bump the starter-don't crank it. The lift pump should run for 25 seconds. To help it you can loosen the fuel filter cap a 1/2 turn. Hoprfully it is now leaking. Tighten the cap. If not it could be a bad lift pump. They can die - and not pump- but still sound good.
If you have fuel at this point, next thing to do is loosen three or four injector lines at the head. Now, crank it for 10-20 seconds. Go check to see if there is fuel leaking fron the loose lines. If so, tighten that line or all of them. Now try to start it. It may run rough for 30 seconds. Or, it may not start or even leak. If this is true, it probably is a bad injection pump.

Try this also.
Turn the key on-off- on - off - on. Watch the odometer. It will run thru some codes. Write them down. Wait till the odometer numbers come back up.
Then get back to us.

 

Thanks , I did get a code P1693 which Is the companion code, I believe. I will try and check the lines right now and get backto you as soon as find out.
For the fuel the gauge sais over a third of a tank. It just sounded empty whem I tapped on the tank. But I dont think this is the case.
When I drained the valve It ran for about 40 miles before it died. It did hesatate rite after, but just once. And I thouht air in the line also. I figured since it kept running after that it was ok.
I have been averaging allmost 20 miles to the gallon and has been running great. but It does seem a little louder than other ctd's I have been around. I love this truck but the wife is not very happy with my desision to buy this one....

 

Oh yea and I do not have a fuel gauge yet as I have had other issues. But it will come soon.

 

Ok I did what you said and the lift pump is making noise but no leak at cap. I then lossend three of the inj. lines and only one leaked fuel. And it will not start.. looking at the lift pump it looks old, as if still original. I am going to see if I can find an under the hood fuel pressure gauge some where today.
Thanks again for the help...Jay

 

You're on the right track.

 

Ok three attept and same result. Stores are just now opening , so I am in search of the pressor gauge. Is this gauge specific to diesel fuel?

Either way my gut tells me it is the vp.
I think I am going to replace the lp also.
Now I have been looking at different sites and found the prices to be from $1200 to $1600 for the vp. I like the bluechip but dont have $3000 sitting around($1400 for core charge), but I thought I saw a post where someone bought it for $1000.

Thanks again everyone....Jay...

 

I don't think so. In a pinch a dial type tire pressure guage will work. A guy I work with had his lp go dead. His truck died too, wouldn't start. Changed the lp and purged the air and it started and hasn't acted funny since.

I reccomend you get a permanent install fuel pressure guage so you can monitor it in the cab. Checking the pressure at idle under the hood is okay but the pressures you want to monitor is when the engine is under load when the fuel demand is higher. Ther e are three pressures to look for : idle, cruise, and WOT.

 

Well maybe I will do one pump at a time. The lp is defenitly the stock one. I actully got hold of the orginal owner, and he said it has never been replaced. I will do the fuel gauge aswell. Any recomendations? I will do a mechanicel one not the elctr. one. Or all the gauge brands about the same.
And I did a search and did not come up with instructions to install one. For a little background I am a carpenter and a jeeper not a mechanic. But have done just about every thing to my gas rigs. And I hate paying someone to fix something I can do. Are there any special tools for the fuel lines or any other part of the install?
Thanks again...Jay....

 

I have the ISSPRO EV gages and like them. You will get a lot of opinions on which ones to buy. Installation is pretty straight foreword, except for the pyro. It needs to be pre-turbo and there are some tricks to drilling the hole in the manifold and not get shavings into the turbo. Do a search for the tips.
Go to the top of this page and click on "links". This will take you to the vendors that participate on this site. There you can check out the gages and about anything else for your truck.
If you don't buy your stock LP on-line, go to a Cummins dealer, NOT a Dodge dealer. Dealers are way too high on their prices. If you plan on keeping the truck for a few years, you might consider an after market pump. I recently went to the FASS II, but there are cheaper options available.
These are high mileage trucks, but just like anything mechanical, there are things that wear out. It sounds like you got a good deal on the truck. Mine has 160k pulse on it and I wouldn't take $12k for it.

 

If you are good with hand tools then this won't be a big challeng for you. I have a mechanical FP guage that gets its pressure reading from a tapped banjo fitting at the VP44(injection pump) inlet. Just after the fitting is a needle valve that serves a dual purpose. One is to stop pressure pulses from the VP44 (pressure pulses are normal, just the nature of this beast) which make most mechanical guages rattle. The second is in the rare event that there is a leak in the line inside or out of the cab I can close off the line and still keep my engine running. I have an Isspro EV black face guage and I like it, looks good. I an going to get some pics taken of my setup and then I will upload them here.

 

jaymo, I'd hold off on replacing the vp 'til you know for sure that it's the problem. I bet the lift pump (LP) stopped lifting. Once you get a pressure reading you'll be one step closer to a fix.
btw, I've got the black faced Isspro EV's and love 'em...see my gallery. Also put the FASS II in last fall and hopefully will never have to worry about fuel problems to the VP. 4 year warranty, 600k-800k rated life for $350 +/- is not a bad deal plus I see about 19 idle, 17 cruise, and 14-15 WOT.
Let us know what you find out.
Were you able to get any fuel to leak out the top of the filter canister by opening it a bit, and bumping the key to run the pump?

 

I did not get fuel out of the canister. My friend and I f$&#&d with it for hours and we ended up pulling the lp. He is the one who found the truck for me. He runs a little dealer in town, and so , He is going to call a dodge dealer and see what price he can get. I will replace it tonight and see what happens.
I did look on some of the links but could not find a direct replacement for the lp. Just add on ones. Is this nessesry? And yea I do like the blk face iso. I am ordering a piller mount and a piro also. I have a 5 spd so I dont need the trans temp, I am still so new to this turbo thing. Do I need a boost gauge?
Allso is there directions on priming the system?
Thanks alot for all of the help, If it werent for this site I would have probbably brought this truck to the ******* and really paid for it

Again thank all of you...Jay...

 

* If you plan on keeping the truck, you may want to consider an aftermarket pump. You can buy a kit, like the FASS II, or you can buy the parts and assemble it yourself. Do a thread search for info, and look at the "LINKS" at the top of this page for vendors.

* Buy the lift pump at a Cummins dealer...about 1/3 to 1/2 Dodge price.

* When you turn the key on, the pump "primes", but you will need to "bump" the starter. If the filter cannister is empty, you will need to do this 3/4 times, and may even have to crack a couple of lines at the injector.

* There are tricks for installing the pyro without removing the manifold. Getting shavings into the turbo can cause a major disaster. Again, do a search here and you will find the proper way.

* I like the boost gage because it tells me my turbo is working. And besides, a three gage pillar looks better than a two gage.