overheating after clutch install-HELP
overheating after clutch install-HELP
OK here is the truck
98 12valve 215000 miles
hybrid 35/40 turbo
some pump work
I just had a new clutch put in from southbend. Before I took it to the mechanic it was running great, except for needing a new clutch. after I get it back it now boosts decent but it feels like I'm towing someting extra heavy when it's just a little horse trailer. poor power and the exhaust temps shoot up to 1200 real quick and feels like I'm driving an oversized 4 banger with little to no power.
checked trans fluid- good
turbo- good
brakes are good
both differentials have fluid.
What could be wrong with this? Please help I have no idea what to do and it is running not even as close to as good as it was a week ago with a bad clutch
98 12valve 215000 miles
hybrid 35/40 turbo
some pump work
I just had a new clutch put in from southbend. Before I took it to the mechanic it was running great, except for needing a new clutch. after I get it back it now boosts decent but it feels like I'm towing someting extra heavy when it's just a little horse trailer. poor power and the exhaust temps shoot up to 1200 real quick and feels like I'm driving an oversized 4 banger with little to no power.
checked trans fluid- good
turbo- good
brakes are good
both differentials have fluid.
What could be wrong with this? Please help I have no idea what to do and it is running not even as close to as good as it was a week ago with a bad clutch
Cummins Guru


Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 65
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Did you check your air filter? Plugged air filter will cause lack of power. It might not even look dirty, but fine dirt will cut off any air getting through filter. I changed one other day that got sucked up into the air intake hose to turbo. I get one customer per week that complains of lack of power. When I tell them it's your air filter they don't believe me, so I go with them on a road test after changing it and that makes them a believer. Check the simple things first. Fuel filter should also be changed to eliminate that as a problem also. If you are loosing boost pressure most of time you will hear a noise as the pressure blows by the hose. Check the clamps for tightness at all the boost hose connections. There are 8 clamps between the turbo and the intake manifold, get yourself a deep 7/16 socket and go check the clamps after you replace that dirty filter.
so far
ok, I cleaned out the air filter (K&N), replaced the fuel filter, and tightened all the clamps post turbo.
Problem still is going on. I did find though that my front wheels are real hot like I have been using them heavy, this was after I camed to a rolling stop twice with it fairly cool outside.
Problem still is going on. I did find though that my front wheels are real hot like I have been using them heavy, this was after I camed to a rolling stop twice with it fairly cool outside.
Sounds like collapsed front brake hoses to me- if you have a hill somewhere try to let the truck roll down in neutral.
Brake drag can rob a lot of horsepower at highway speeds.
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
Brake drag can rob a lot of horsepower at highway speeds.
Just my 2c
AlpineRAM
Cummins Guru


Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 65
From: Sunny Southern California Land of Fruits and Nuts
Drive truck then jack front wheel off ground and see if they are locked up. The initial torque required to get the hub to rotate is called "break away torque." The break away torque will be higher and should be disregarded.The difference between the left and right side rotational torque should be less then 20 N• m (15 ft. lbs.) of torque, If the wheel is locked open bleeder screw if you are able to turn wheel then the brake hose is at fault. If wheel still will not turn easily or with some resistance then caliper is binding up. Be very careful since rotor and caliper couldl be very hot. Also check your master cylinder for contamination. If just a small amount of petroleum oil got into master it will cause the seals to swell up and cause your brakes to drag and lock up. The rubber gastket on the master will be swollen and fluid will have oil floating on top. If that be the case every brake system part will need replacing. Wheel cylinders to master cylinder. You might want to check for contamination first... Good Luck.
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