Ooops
Ok for 2 days early this week it didn't get above 29 at my house. When i woke up at 6am it was 26.6*F. I decided to let the truck warm up, so i go out jump in and i forgot to Wait for the"wait to start" light to go out, it took alot of cranking(which kinda seemed odd, until i relized that i forgot to wait), after it started it smoke badley for about 10min. i went to go do some shopping i come back an hr later, same thing as above only this time i waited for the light to go out. It did the same thing cranked for about 10sec and fired up, and smoked real bad. it has done this every start up since and its warm out side our high was 42 today. so what do you think is wrong. and one more thing, why on a gasser when starting if you push the gas petal all the way down it just cranks but on a diesel it fires up just fine.
thanks for any help.
PS. My battery voltage is just below the normal range for the first 15-30sec on a cold start up. the check gages(i think they spelled it wrong) light is one.. why is this, is my battery(s) bad??
thanks for any help.
PS. My battery voltage is just below the normal range for the first 15-30sec on a cold start up. the check gages(i think they spelled it wrong) light is one.. why is this, is my battery(s) bad??
Turn the key from off to on 3 times (but don't start it) and see if you have any codes show in the odometer window.
The battery voltage would be below the normal range when the grid heaters are running, due to the amount of power they pull when they are on. But you should see the voltage cycle from the low reading back to normal as the grids cycle. Is the starter turning over more slowly now? Or is it turning as quick as usual, just taking longer to start and running badly after it's started?
The battery voltage would be below the normal range when the grid heaters are running, due to the amount of power they pull when they are on. But you should see the voltage cycle from the low reading back to normal as the grids cycle. Is the starter turning over more slowly now? Or is it turning as quick as usual, just taking longer to start and running badly after it's started?
its kinda a slow crank like a rhuuuu then it fires. maybe the bats are going bad they are the originals. i did the code check(i do it once a week, don't ask..) nothing came up. so any i deas on my gas petal ???
My batteries show 12.58 & 12.56 volts. Take a cable off the passenger side battery and check the voltage on yours. I believe less than 12.5 volts is kinda the close to the ledge/oughta think about another battery.
GAS PETAL? We don't got no stinkin' GAS petal
Plug it in, it'll really start better.
On a diesel the air side is wide open all the time, so to get the additional fuel required for cold air combustion you press the pedal.
On a gasser, the throttle valve closes off the air, to get the rich mixture, and pushing the pedal opens the valve, which makes the mixture too lean, no start.
The computers also do most of the cold start work, you shouldn't have to even touch the "throttle" pedal at all.
On a side note, how many people still "pump" the accelerater pedal to try to start a gasser?
No carb, no accelerater pump, no squirt of fuel, pumping accomplishes nothing!
GAS PETAL? We don't got no stinkin' GAS petal
Plug it in, it'll really start better.
On a diesel the air side is wide open all the time, so to get the additional fuel required for cold air combustion you press the pedal.
On a gasser, the throttle valve closes off the air, to get the rich mixture, and pushing the pedal opens the valve, which makes the mixture too lean, no start.
The computers also do most of the cold start work, you shouldn't have to even touch the "throttle" pedal at all.
On a side note, how many people still "pump" the accelerater pedal to try to start a gasser?
No carb, no accelerater pump, no squirt of fuel, pumping accomplishes nothing!
Plug it in, it'll really start better.
On a diesel the air side is wide open all the time, so to get the additional fuel required for cold air combustion you press the pedal.
On a gasser, the throttle valve closes off the air, to get the rich mixture, and pushing the pedal opens the valve, which makes the mixture too lean, no start.
The computers also do most of the cold start work, you shouldn't have to even touch the "throttle" pedal at all.
On a side note, how many people still "pump" the accelerater pedal to try to start a gasser?
No carb, no accelerater pump, no squirt of fuel, pumping accomplishes nothing!
and just try to stop them from from turning the thermostat down in their house because the machine won't make setpoint for one reason or another.
(accelerator pedal syndrome)(APS)
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Thanks, i need mnew batts i will get them today. oh ya i don't pump the pedal i was just doing a test. haha i was sittting at a light and i pretended to stall my moms car(my truck had another rig parked behind it
, (the guy behind me was rideing my *** so i stopped and oops i dropped the clutch about 4times and pushed the gas all the way down and geee it wouldn't start. i finnally was nice and went off just as the light turned red. i even made it through as a yellow, he had to sit for another 5min(its a really long light.)
, (the guy behind me was rideing my *** so i stopped and oops i dropped the clutch about 4times and pushed the gas all the way down and geee it wouldn't start. i finnally was nice and went off just as the light turned red. i even made it through as a yellow, he had to sit for another 5min(its a really long light.)
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