Well I think I got the fuel canister leak resolved but low and behold it just does not start. I cracked the Banjo fitting and fuel is there . Cracked 2 injectors and nothing. Tried bumping 4or 5 times still no fuel. Should I keep bumping not sure how long I should have to do before I see something. Any other suggestions or hints? Thanks Dan

!999 Dodge 2500 diesel plain Jane work truck.

 

Um I hate to be the bad news bear but when or if was the last time you had a new lift pump put on? if your not getting fuel and it wont start I would start too look at the possibility that the lift pump has taken a dirt nap.

 

Is there a way to check if lp is operating properly? Thanks

 

Really hate to be the one to tell you... but if you cracked the injectors and no fuel then the vp44 is dead... check for codes... you will need a code reader for this... You can check the lift pump by cracking the vp44 banjo bolt to make sure there is fuel coming out.. I forget what is the normal flow numbers, but you will be able to tell almost imediately if there is a problem because fuel will be every where.. Havn't gotten the hang of not getting fuel everywhere yet.. maybe some one will chime in with better directions, or if you are good at doing searches, do a search, I know there was a good post a while back that explained all this.. I can't seem to find it right now..

 

On top of the fuel canister are two 1/8" brass pipe plugs. Loosen one and bump the starter. This should cause the LP to run for 22 seconds before shutting off. If no fuel comes out then the LP is bad. Replace it with an after market fuel pump like a FASS II or Walbro. If you need to get it running right away replace the stock one for $150, but you'll need to install an in cab fuel pressure gage what ever you do.

The lift pump is located behind the fuel filter canister, on the block, follow the fuel lines.

 

In this statement, "bumping the starter means the engine doesn't turn over a complete revolution.
If you do have fuel coming out, then proceed to bleeding the injectors.


When you say "bumping" 4 or 5 times and still no fuel, I assume you are talking about no fuel at the cracked open injector. I also hope your term of "bumping" is actually cranking the engine for at least 5 or so seconds at a time.
I say this because most people's description of "bumping" the engine means not making a full revolution. You need to continuously crank the engine in order to bleed any air out from the injection pump through the cracked injector. It is also important to note that you may need to crack more than just a couple of injectors. I have had to crack (bleed) 3 of them before in order for it to finally fire and stay running. It sounds rough at first but it will get better.



If I have misunderstood your post, then forgive me. Hopefully it will not be the injection pump. Good luck.

 

If the fuel canister is filling after bump the lp is working right? what is the next step after that? I will open 3 injector lines and see if that helps. How many times should I bump b4 the ugliness of the ip not working comes to the forefront? By bumping I turn it over several times And wait about 10 minutes in between each time I bump. Could there be any other issues like blocked fuel line from changing out the fuel filter or selinoid issues? Thanks for all your help

 

If you have fuel on a banjo fitting during a starter bump, crack open an injector line then turn the motor over (try to start) a few times and see if you're getting fuel to that injector.

 

YES
You can loosen the banjo on the injection pump inlet and that will show you if you're getting fuel as far as the pump. Then bleed the injectors.

I only open one at a time. Then I crank the engine over until I see fuel coming out of that injector and will tighten it back up if the motor doesn't fire. I then open another one and repeat until it starts.
If you see no signs of fuel at the injector after cranking several times, it's a pretty good indication that the injection pump is not working. The reason for a wait would be to let the starter cool after continuous cranking of the engine.
I can't think of any other issues (somebody correct me if I'm wrong) after you have established fuel supply to the injection pump inlet. If you have fuel going in and nothing coming out at the injectors, bad injection pump would be my guess. There is no self diagnostic code check on the 99 like there is on the later years, but someone with a DRB scanner can do it. Our local Autozone and Advance Auto stores have Lend-A-Tool services and it might help you to check for something like that in your area.

Good luck and we hope you can get it going.

 

Dont want to ask a stupid question, but you are snugging down teh lines while they sit right? They could bleed air back into them while sitting cracked and no pressure being put to them.....

 

Have the pedal to the floor too,that makes a difference,according to the Bosch guy I talked to (when bleeding the Injection Pump-Injectors)

 

Well I have traced it as follows. Fuel from lp to canister is visible alot of bubbles when fuel was coming out. Fuel to ip at banjo bolt again alot of bubbles with fuel. craced open 3 injectors one at a time no fuel so I am sadly convinced it is ip. The only questions I have could it be a relay or any other electrical connected with the ip? Second I have some skills in wrenching is this job of changing out the ip a very difficult one Thanks Dan

 

Well this sounds to familiar,but you should look for the small things first. I had several people tell me it was the IP. try this, open your fuel tank cap, have some one bump the key so the LP will run. put your ear by the opening of the tank and see if you can hear fuel running back into the tank. if you hear the fuel running back into the tank,it might be the check valve which is located where the fuel return line leaves the IP. cheap compared to IP.$40.00

 

Have you checked to make sure that you have enough fuel. My sensor went on my fuel gauge once and I ran out of fuel. It would be worth a check.

 

Some folks have reported the fuel line quick connects develop a leak that allows air into the system, there's one right at the suction side of the lift pump. You could try taking it apart & smear a little grease or oil on the rubber seal then reassemble and test for air again. The next one is on top of the fuel tank.