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Oil leak from front crank seal?

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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 10:36 AM
  #1  
Superduty12v's Avatar
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From: Winder, GA
Angry Oil leak from front crank seal?

I did the KDP tab fix on my truck about a month ago. I noticed just yesterday that the truck was leaking oil from the front of the engine. I couldn't see any signs of damage or anything and the truck did not leak after the initial repair to the KDP (caught it before it fell out). I did not use permatex or anything on the cover gasket on the housing. Should I have? I used blue/red loctite on all bolts and made sure all bolts were tight. The only thing I can think of happening is that the crankshaft seal was installed wrong or my tab bolt over the KDP fell out. I was wondering... Should the crankshaft seal, when installed, should the lip of the seal that rides on the crank be facing back towards the engine or towards the radiator? I installed it facing the radiator because that's how it slid on using the installation tool. I will be taking the front cover back off this weekend to find the oil leak problem but I was wondering if anyone could tell me any tips on what I should be making sure of on the crank seal. Thanks
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 12:11 PM
  #2  
Dieseldude4x4's Avatar
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From: Claremont, Virginia
Not sure about the front one but there is a definate way the rear seal goes in. It has to go in dry with no oil on it whatsoever.

I also remember in the old book something about a centering tool that goes in the cover to center the seal on the crankshaft before tightening the bolts. Did you use that tool?
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 02:02 PM
  #3  
DieselDaze's Avatar
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I also remember in the old book something about a centering tool that goes in the cover to center the seal on the crankshaft before tightening the bolts. Did you use that tool?
Ive heard this as well. Ive also heard that it take a little work to make certain that the from crank seal does not get out of place when installing re-assymbling the truck after you tab the KDP.

Rich
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 02:15 PM
  #4  
HammerMTB's Avatar
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From: NW Washington
Seal installation

From your description, you put the seal in backward. The seal installation tool should slip over the crank nose, and permit the seal lip to ride over the installation tool with the lip toward the crankcase. This is a Teflon seal, and MUST be installed absolutely dry. I use brake cleaner on the crank nose to get every bit of oil off the crank, after I have dressed the crank nose with scotch-brite.
If you're taking it apart again, get a new seal and give it a go! It'll be better when the seal lip faces inward. Those teflon seals last a very long time.
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 04:56 PM
  #5  
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We have all made brain fart mistakes like backward seals before,it will go faster the second time at least!!! Good advice above clean it up real good and I use sealant on the covers, some do and some don't. Goodluck,, Rick
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Old Jan 14, 2004 | 05:01 PM
  #6  
Paul Winey's Avatar
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From: Arcadia, WI
Having just redone my seal and gasket I know your pain. Do a few other things first. 1) recheck torque on the cover bolts (216 inch/ft I think). My loosened up. 2) Get a small mirror and look where the timing case meets the block along the front left hand (driver's side of block). You may have some seepage from here. A bad seal won't spray oil up this far. Good luck fixing. You may still have to remove cover, torque timing case bolts and apply some sealant along the case/block union. 3) Don't pull the seal or cover off until you've removed the crankshaft dampener and can confirm that it's leaking from the seal. You may only have to replace the seal rather than pull the whole cover (although trying to get the seal in place with the cover on is a PITA). If you are a contortionist you can get a good light and look behind the dampener to see if it's leeking from there. 4) The inner portion of the seal does face in towards the engine and as stated must go on dry and with the installation tool. Good luck.
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