BuyAmerican

Ok, read the last 171 posts and don't see "MY" problem.
Every once in awhile, and at differing times of day and temps and enviornmental conditions, with no common denominator, the truck wont start. It will "crank" to beat the band. I have had some "seemingly" good luck by letting fuel out of the water seperator, but even this doesn't always seem to be the fix. Most of the time I just try and try, up to 12 times in a half hour, and then all of a sudden it starts and everything seems to be fine form then on, for awhile, then it'll happen again.
I haven't "just changed" ANYTHING!!!! with the truck, (other than oil at 5000 mile intervals).
Does anybody have an idea as to why this would happen?? and what I need to do to fix it?
Thanks...

infidel

Sounds like the rubber fuel hoses at the driver's side rear of your engine are leaking letting in air. How hard it is to start depends on how full your fuel tank is or if the truck is parked on a grade.

It can leak in air without leaking fuel out and will have to be replaced
eventually on 100% of 12 valves.
You will need about two feet of 5/16'' and two feet of 3/8'' diesel rated hose, a couple of clamps for each hose and a lot of patience, it's a tight fit. It is availible as a
kit here for $14.95
http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm
In the picture below you can see the line where it passes under the water temp sensor (upper right) the end with the clamp is to the left of the fuel filter, which needs to be removed to gain access. If you have vacuum assisted brakes ('94-'96) you will also need to remove the two nuts that hold the master cylinder with fluid reservoir and move it towards the drivers side, pull the large vacuum hose off the brake booster, it moves easier than it looks no need to disconnect any brake lines.
To get to the other end of the hose you need to move the two relays on the firewall with their bracket out of the way, one 3/8'' screw under the hood seal does it. Remove the hose hold down clamps towards the rear of the filter. I also completely remove the engine lift hook. Now you can follow the hose down by feel and remove the clamp. The rest with the new hose is self evident.
The intake line is 3/8'' in the same area but a little easier to get at.
Sure wish it was as easy to see as this diagram, the only place you can really see the line is right past the hold down clamps a few inches forward of the temp sender, even then you can only see a couple inches of it. Most of the job has to be done by feel.
OR you can let the dealer do it, about $125 per hose.

apache

Infidels right on the money. I had similar problems on my 93 after the pump was rebuilt. it would just crank and smoke some. then it would fire for no good reason. This went on for weeks. Other issues migtht be the fuel shut off solenoid, wires to it, But I gotta admit Im not sure if 94 and up is the same as my old 93s. Also parking on a slight downhill can cause this if the lift pump is shot, again not sure on 94 up. gusee I need to find out as well being I just got a 95 CTD. good luck.

BuyAmerican

THANKS!!!! for the quick responses! As the hose replacement job would be the "cheap" fix, I'll try that first. However, I can remember that the last 2 times this happened, I was parked facing downhill on slight grades, so after the hose job I will be paying much closer attention as to how I'm parked.
Again, THANK YOU, both.

CarlJensen

If you can, go to a marine supply house for your hose and get "marine grade" hose. Much stronger than auto hose. I replaced the whole thing from the tank to the fitting on the engine. The metal portions of the return line have a habit of fracturing at the mounting tab points above the tranny.

Redleg

There are short rubber lines connecting the steel lines to the tank too. My steel lines looked like they were on their last legs too. I ran new rubber from tank to pump. The inside diameter of the rubber lines is larger than the steel too.

apache

You might wanna check into the lift pump. maybe someone will step in and say if there the same setup as the first gens. If you dont fix it and its the problem it will ruin your injector pump as well. I have seen with my own eyes the down hill no start deal, then turn around and it fires right up. Crazy deal.

RCW

Next time the truck will not start, leave the key on and open the hood and reach down and pull up on the fuel shutoff solenoid. If it clicks up and stays, then go ahead and start the truck. If that happens you likely have a problem with the relay on the firewall that controls the starting side of the solenoid. Sometimes the starter contacts will cause the same problem, but this is a good way to test. Other times it is the bellows on the solenoid has broken and let dirt into the solenoid, and the solenoid can be cleaned and the same folks at Foster's can sell you a new bellows.

BuyAmerican

Thanks guys, I will be checking the solenoid and replacing the fuel lines as soon as my back lets me. Seems it deciced to act up again on the morning that I was gonna start the process. As a side note, I have already had to drop the tank shortly after I bought the truck because the fuel float was stuck on the sidewall of the tank and giving false fuel tank readings. So I'm familier with the lines that connect the tank, (to the steel lines on the frame member), I made them longer at that time to facillitate the ease of dropping the tank again, (if the need ever arose).
Again, THANK YOU!!!! for the responses. I'll post again when I get the jos/s done.

winkle

BuyAmerican,

Mine has done that before, it ended up being the fuel shut off solenoid. Next time it does it leave the key on after you've tried to start and see if you can pull up on solenoid arm, if you can then 1) it should start and 2) it's a bad solenoid.

stoneman

I have had the same hard start problems develop over the last 2 weeks.
I followed the advice on this thread by checking the fuel shut off solenoid arm with the key on. The arm was not in the up postion. After manually pulling arm up it fires right up. Installed the relay (47.00 from Napa) and problem solved.
Ran the star wheel up 15 clicks while I was under the hood and it definately improved take offs.
Thanks for the good trouble shooting advice