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Need ignition wire for pump

Old Dec 22, 2006 | 02:33 PM
  #1  
skymiles's Avatar
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From: Spring Hill TN.
Need ignition wire for pump

just finished plumbing new frame mounted lp pump but can't find a ignition wire under the hood to turn it on with the key. I dont won't to tap off of the fuse block in the dash, can't get a wire under the micro fuse big enough to carry the current. where can I tap in? HELP! 2000 model
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 02:51 PM
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From: Annapolis, Md
Tap the new lp off the old lp wiring.....
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 03:03 PM
  #3  
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From: kingston,wa
when i installed my bd lift pump kit, it came with a harness that had a factory connector to plug into the factory harness, no splicing or cutting.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 03:32 PM
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From: Tenn.
Cool

I didn't have a power extension kit for mine...they didn't have them 2 years ago..so I pulled the stock wires down between the starter and engine block, cut the stock connector off, butt spliced/soldered/double heat shrunk 3 ft. of same size wire, wrapped and placed out of the way of heat or moving parts, soldered heavy duty connectors after triming wires to proper length.

Don't use crimp connectors, you really need a good solid connection to keep the lift pump good and the injector pump alive
Trim 1/2 inch of insulation from the wires, slide 2 pieces of heat shrink up either wire, jam the wires straight into the other, solder the wires then slide one piece of heat shrink tubing and heat with a heat gun or a small cigar lighter just enough to get the tubing to shrink tight over your soldered joint. Repeat with your other piece of shrink tubing.

The yellow/tan wire is pos. and the post closest to the discharge port on a Carter is pos.

A fitting from a fuel pressure test kit screwed on to the schrader valve on the Injector Pump with a 4 ft hose & bucket let air out without air locking the system.
At the first starter "bump", the end of the hose sucked air so I switched the connectors on the lift pump and re-bumped the starter. Air and fuel shot out with good flow and pressure. After another bump, the air cleared up so I removed the fitting off the schrader valve, bumped the starter 3 more times(lots easier on your batteries than actually trying to start) then started the motor right up. It missed a few seconds then idled smooth.
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Old Dec 22, 2006 | 05:08 PM
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From: Omaha, AR
I use the power window relay, that is in the dash, works good for me
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 03:49 PM
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From: Spring Hill TN.
Clunk, That's pretty much what I ended up doing.I had originaly ordered a glacier pump kit that had the wiring harness provided from ETR performance out of Linor TN. But he called me back and said it would be 1 weak but he had a BD big line kit on the shelf he could get to me in one day, so that's what I went with. Got it all plumbed up to find no wiring harness so I called him and he said I needed to tap into a ignition wire so the pump would not cycle on and off. But I could not find a ignition wire under the hood to use so I did what you did. What I don't understand is when I hook it straight to the battery I get about 12 psi on a mechanical and electrical gauge, but on the old lp wire I get about 10psi I thought this pump was good to produce about 20 psi so what gives? Yes I have dropped the tank and took the screen off of the bottom of the sender module and I am using a fleetguard FF5079 in line strainer. What kind of pressure are you running with your's? I noticed you are in TN were about?
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Old Dec 23, 2006 | 04:22 PM
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From: Tenn.
I get 15 psi idle and 11psi WOT with my Carter but I don't have a pre filter.
Is the Glacier pump a Carter? I get around 11.8 volts through the ECM and a good battery generally shows 12.5 volts so that could be the difference.
If the intake heater is on, it'll drop the voltage and pull a coupla pounds off mine too.
I'm just up the road in Nashville.
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Old Dec 27, 2006 | 05:09 PM
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From: Spring Hill TN.
Clunk, I ended up with a bully dog big line kit that comes with a holley pump.I was wanting a glacier but they could not get me one quick enough, so I ended up with the BD. I sent my gauge back today for another one thinking maybe I got a bad gauge I don't know we will see I guess.I noticed this morning when I first started it up every time the manifold heater cycled on it would drop the fuel pressure from about 5 psi to 0 then after it warmed up a minute or two it came up to about 12psi. I guess the heater draws so much current it takes away from the power to the pump. Still a scarry though yaknow. Like to meet up with you some time I work at Nashville International Airport.
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