can't hurt to run a load of sea foam through it while out there runnin it hard. no chance that with the work done something got sucked into the head ?

 

Gonna try and pick some up today and run it. I don't think anything got sucked in, I had all openings covered and used vacuum and mirror to make double sure on intake track for debris. I can't say for sure at dealership cause they didn't do much wright when they had it. New injectors-old connector tubes, installed new injectors-didn't check/reset exhaust valves and took off bull-bar to do injectors?- reinstalled crooked but they do wright up a nice bill for off warranty work

 

well put a few more clicks on the truck. The rail pressure is running around 7.5k now on highway (110km/70mph) and about 6k at idle. When I park outside at night -20Cish the fuel pressure reading just before the Cp3 it jumps up and down about 4 psi, 12 to about 16 psi but if I park in the garage over night it stays steady areound 14.5 psi. Checked the PRV, took out banjo bolt and pluged return line and left top of PRV open started truck and took rail pressure up to around 15K and not a drop came out. The truck still seem to have a miss and has a vibration to it. 5 out of the 6 exhaust temps are around 285 but 5 is still higher at around 330. Not sure what else to test with out pulling head. Going to reinstall old engine mounted ECM on weekend and see if it still runs the same.

 

Well can rule out the ECM. Just switched the old one back in and no change other than the fuel gauge didn't work and that was the reason for the ECM switch in the first place. Checked EGT's at exhaust manifold about 1.5" from head and #5 was hotter than the other 5 with the old ECM aswell. So looks like head is gonna come off Also noticed at light throttle my mechanical boost gauge has to get to 5psi before my edge attitude will show 1psi. There is about a 4psi difference at low boost lvls but at around 25psi they seem closer. Anyone have a difference with theirs that have edge attitude and a mechanical guage?

 

Hey, I don't know what your miss/vibration feels like, but I saw a post the other day with the same complaint and it actually turned out to be a cracked harmonic balancer, broken around the outside of the bolt holes. Not saying this is your problem, but it may be worth a look before you remove the head.

 

I am way late weighing in on this, but your rail pressure is far too low. Run your hand around the bottom of the CP3 where the front and rear halves of the casting are joined.

If you find it wet, it needs a new pump body seal and O-ring kit. Common problem on those that were not fixed under Chrysler's customer satisfaction program. What happens in that instance is the pump overpressurized during cold weather when the fuel was thick, then blew the original pump internal body seal. That allows them to drool a bit.

If it is not leaking, then it is likely the bypass valve assembly on the pump body. When they stick they allow the fuel to bypass and not build adequate rail pressure. They also demonstrate more problems in cold weather than in warm weather because the fuel contaminants that lead to the failure are more sticky in the cold. Plugging the bypass return does nothing to solve the problem, and can damage the pump body from excessive internal pressure.

Also, swapping ECM's will fry the BCM, so not a good idea. These have to have the ECM's flashed with the appropriate package for your VIN to swap, and not something you can do at home.

 

rail pressure is higher now runs about 10-11k on highway and reacts better after re-torque of connector tubes. The Cp3 is only 1 month old and is an Industrial Injection stock flow unit. The ECM I tried was my old unit from my truck that had a fried fuel Gage circuit do to a short in wire harness, other wise it ran the same as it does now. The thing that is the problem now is that #5 exhaust is about 30-50* hotter at idle and in gear than the rest. I can kinda hear a louder pulse in the tail pipe and it has a vibration like from a bad cylinder and throttle response is not as crisp when it was newer. It's like I told one guy it's running not bad but it's not makin music

 

Not sure if this will help any but maybe it will help shine some light on the situation. just today i had the opportunity to work with a big iron mechanic doing some maintenance on a natural gas compressor. now the engine on this thing is a v12 and is the size of my crewcab. i could use the pistons as coffee tables. we were having the same symptoms as u are describing. it was running a little rough and the egt's were all over the place.close to 100 deg. difference on some. to remedy the situation we did both adjusted fuel pressure and valve stroke. something else that i did learn was that if one cylinder is not working properly then the cylinder before it or after it will have a higher egt due to having a bigger load on it. now i know that this is a totally different beast then what u are working with but maybe it can point u somewhere. good luck

 

The fuel pressure is still far too low. If you have an injector that is bleeding off pressure from an elongated body, which is what they all do over time, that will result in low rail pressure. Replacing the pump and old injectors with dirty hands or in a wet or dusty environment will contaminate the system enough that the new parts could be trashed within ten minutes of initial start up. A defective pump will also lead to the same problems. Installing new components in a system that was not flushed or had contaminated fuel can also create the same issues.

Low rail pressure, #5 being hotter, and a sharper exhaust note on one or more cylinders would lead me to believe that one or more of the injectors are bad if none of the above were present. It may or may not be #5, as it easily could be the good one!

One other thing, it could be crap fuel. Some winter blends for extreme cold weather are far too light for the common rail systems and simply will not build enough rail pressure to run properly. A good way to determine if this is the cause is to put a gallon of good chainsaw mix oil in a nearly full tank, mix it well, and see if the problems go away. Do not use discount chainsaw oil, but use Stihl, Husqvarna, or Echo oil, same as with a good saw.

I would pull all the injectors and have them flow tested if it is not the fuel, and you absolutely know for certain that the install work was done with components that were never exposed to water or laid around on the bench open to the atmosphere, the old fuel was properly evacuated, the rail and all lines flushed, and all engine work done in a near lab clean environment.

The CP3 and common rail systems have far tighter tolerances than the older timed injection pumps and systems, are not forgiving of any contamination at all! So, so not lend themselves to do-it-yourself repairs unless the person doing the work is really careful and clean.