I am trying to get my injector pump off my 1st gen.
I have all of the lines off and the pump is loose, I have the 22mm nut and washer off of the drive gear but I cannot get the pump loose from the gear. What do I need to do? I tried to use a puller by using the 2 taped holes in the gear to anchor to but the shaft will not move. I do not want to drive the bolts in to push it off the pump like some gears do unless I am supposed to.
I am stuck and I need your advice ASAP
Thanks Jim.

 

Using a puller is your best method.

A strongback style puller, with the two bolts, and use a button to protect the end of the pump shaft. sometimes it helps to put some pressure on the puller, then give the head of the puller bolt a rap with a small hammer. Many times the shock will break the fit between the gear and the shaft. Good luck.

 

If I remember right I used a steering wheel puller, and the first time I removed it it was very tight=just becareful for the keyway pin and don't let it drop.
good luck

 

Install the nut back on the pump shaft but let it be loose from the gear. Place the puller bar back over the end of the shaft, and then insert the two bolts into the gear. Turn down the puller bar center bolt until it is snug and pulling on the two bolts you threaded into the gear, then give it a quarter turn more. It will pop the gear loose, and snap it against the shaft nut.

If that does not do it, rap the center bolt of the gear puller a good whack, and it will pop the gear right loose.

Once the gear is loose, you come to the hard part. Remove the puller and the bolts threaded into the gear. Leave the nut and pump gear in palce and roll your engine over by barring off the alternator shaft nut (or by using a regular barring tool on the flywheel) until the pump keyway is up, and then remove the pump shaft nut and carefully pull the gear and do not drop the key into the gearcase. If you do drop the key, pull the gearcase cover and get it out of the bottom down by the crankshaft drive gear before it blows through the gears and creates major damage.

You are likely working through the oil filler hole, so take your time to avoid rushing and dropping the key.

Once you have everything off and the pump removed, do not move the engine crankshaft at all, because you will be installing the pump and drive gear back in their original timing positions with the same reference with the drive key in the 12 o'clock position.

 

Thank you ..

Hey thanks everyboby for the help, I finally did get off using the puller, man that was on there tight. I finally used my air chisel on the back of the puller body to give it a shock and then it finally poped off, everything was fairly simple. Man that tappet cover gasket was bad, it was all brittle and cracked no wonder it leaked so bad. The pump came out real easy but I ran into a problem when I reinstalled it. A better choice would have been to set the engine at TDC first but I didn't and when I took the pump off the shaft it was in between two cylinders and it jumped to the next cylinder so I had to bar the engine to the next cylinder to line up the key. After I got it all togather and running I have a feeling the timing might be a bit off. It just sounds a bit diffrent but maybe not. When I had the pump off I checked all of the wiring and found the connection to the fuel solenoid and KSP were loose and the latter was intermittant. I repaired all of the wiring. Since I had it down, I did a complete sevice and I changed the oil as well. Wix filter and 40 wt. Rotella. The big suprise was when I got to the air filter, I have the Banks exhaust on my truck so I have the K&N filter and I couldn't belive how dirty this thing was, it was all blocked up so I washed it and reinstalled it.
Where does all of the gunky mess come from? I thought well maybe the turbo was blowing some oil but the oily gunk was on the OUTSIDE of the filter and not on the inside, so it must just be from the dirty air I am injesting. If you see my pictures, I have a ram air on my truck.
I got all of the fuel lines on and purged the air using the manual primer on the lift pump, I was all ready to have a big problem with air but it starter right up and had a little shudder but smoothened right out. Nice...Next I had to clean up all of the oil that had leaked down the engine. I have a Karcher 3000 PSI pressure/ steam cleaner so I drug it out and got it all hooked up,I turned it on and now the burner won't light I thing I have a clogged line on the diesel tank so I just used the high pressure for now. After I fix it I will steam it clean. I went out for a test drive and it sure runs alot better now and so far there are no leaks.
Also when I set up the pump I noticed the linkage must have stretched because when the pedel is on the floor the pump is not at WOT so I removed the bracket that holds the pedel to the firewall and made a 3/8 spacer to move it away from the firewall. This now gives me WOT and the pedal is not mashed into the carpet. This gives alot better feeling now.
If you remeber a few months ago I was is an accident on the freeway well since that that time my trans has been giving me a problem going into gear ,well I went to the transmission shop and they checked it out come to find out the shaft the detent is connected to on the valvebody has a fracture on it caused from the impact and I will be taking it in on tuesday to be repaired. The bummer is when they had the pan off, there are various parts of the transmission stuck to the magnet at the bottom of the pan. NOT GOOD so I am going to have to have the transmission rebuilt this week. I kinda knew I was going to have to have it done.
I found a shop that I feel comfortable with and I think it is a decent price. It's is going to cost me $1,200.00 and will have a 2 year warranty. Includes torque converter, any hard parts needed, transgo re-program kit, backflush all of my coolers and lines plus fluids. I checked alot of repair shops and I would not let most of them even near my truck. I went to Banks and ask who would you trust to rebuild your transmissions and they gave me this name.
BTW What is the proper way to set the pump timing on a 1st. generation truck? what kind of a device do I need?
I took alot of pictures, so as soon as I have the time I will post them in my gallery to help anyone who has to tackle this job.
Again thanks for all of the help. Jim.

 

K&N filters are supposed to be oiled after cleaning. K&N, of course, recommends you use their oil. That is probably the oil that you are talking about.

 

Now that I think of it, I am sure that is what it is. It was just all gunky and thick but that must have been the dirt.
Thanks. Jim.

 

To time that pump you need a special tool. It measures the position of the plunger in the pump. If I can remember right the specks are something like 1.5 @ Top dead center. Some went to 1.7, but most were very happy with 1.5. A lot of people found their pumps off from the factory, mine was. If you want I will go to my tool box and see if I can find the cummings part number. The tool is acutaly 2 tools, one being the peice that goes into the pump and the other is a dial meter, which any dial meter could be made to work. I have heard of people going to shops and people timeing thease pumps by degrees-beware of this. When set corectly the egr's went down and the beast ran quite nicely-just like any machine when proply tuned