Installing column shifter in 98 CTD auto
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From: Spring Hill, TN
Installing column shifter in 98 CTD auto
Anyone know how the pin in the column shifter comes out? Can it be done in the truck, or does the whole column have to come out? It looks like a solid pin, and I tried briefly to hammer it out with a punch, but it's tight in there and I saw no movement. Trying to get this back together for the drive to work tomorrow.
Thanks!
Thanks!
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From: Tucson,AZ
Not sure if it helps....... but on my 00 Dakota the column shifter (which sure looks the same as the Rams) was held in by a solid pin. I think it's installed from the top. I didn't need to remove the column to remove the pin, just the top and bottom black plastic covers.
Travis
Travis
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From: Spring Hill, TN
That sounds about right... So you are saying the pin needs to come *up* from the bottom to come out? I was trying to punch it *down* from the top. I will try the other when I get home tonight.
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From: Spring Hill, TN
Aside form the pin holding me up - this would have literally been a 10 minute job to swap out. You will need a phillips, a torx, and an allen adaptor to get the necessary colum covers off.
Will update when it's all done.
Will update when it's all done.
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From: Spring Hill, TN
Did some more searching here, and found the following:
Will try this when I get home.
Removing the factory lever:
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROLL PIN WITH A HAMMER AND TAP! Use a big set of channel lok pliers to 'squeeze' out the roll pin on the lever itself where it is seated into the column. Put one side of the pliers on the end of the pin sticking out of the bottom, and the other end on the opposite side of the pin but not actually on the pin - slightly off centered. This will not stress the aluminum and will use the housing to counter the force of budging the pin loose. It's tight, but you don't want to use a hammer and punch to initially budge it. Once it is loose (about a 1/4 inch) NOW you can use the punch to lightly tap out the pin. One good smack is better than several little ones. The column doesn't look killer strong, but it'll take a bunch of abuse. Remove the lever, and be sure to note how the little return spring is aligned at the base of the lever. You will want to place the new lever in exactly the same location.
DO NOT REMOVE THE ROLL PIN WITH A HAMMER AND TAP! Use a big set of channel lok pliers to 'squeeze' out the roll pin on the lever itself where it is seated into the column. Put one side of the pliers on the end of the pin sticking out of the bottom, and the other end on the opposite side of the pin but not actually on the pin - slightly off centered. This will not stress the aluminum and will use the housing to counter the force of budging the pin loose. It's tight, but you don't want to use a hammer and punch to initially budge it. Once it is loose (about a 1/4 inch) NOW you can use the punch to lightly tap out the pin. One good smack is better than several little ones. The column doesn't look killer strong, but it'll take a bunch of abuse. Remove the lever, and be sure to note how the little return spring is aligned at the base of the lever. You will want to place the new lever in exactly the same location.
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From: Spring Hill, TN
Finally got around to getting this fixed. The above instructions worked perfectly - so use them if this ever comes up.
Vice grips, a punch (the right sized punch is a big help IMHO), hammer, and the torx driver to get the column apart is all you need for this.
Vice grips, a punch (the right sized punch is a big help IMHO), hammer, and the torx driver to get the column apart is all you need for this.
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Joined: Sep 2003
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From: Fort Worth Texas
Finally got around to replacing mine this weekend without the benefit of the above instructions as I did not have access to my computer until today - used a punch to drive the pin out. About an hour job. Had to remove the dash besel to get the 2 piece cover off but other than than it was an easy fix. Thanks.
John (DH)
John (DH)
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