TODAY I REPLACED MY CRANKSHAFT POSITION SENSOR BECAUSE IT WAS FAILING AND FIGURED AS LONG AS I WAS AT IT I WOULD REPLACE THE FUEL FILTER AS WELL. SENSOR WORKED FINE ON TEST DRIVE SO I RETURNED HOME TO DO THE FILTER. I DRAINED THE FILTER BOWL, REMOVED THE OLD FILTER, FILLED THE BOWL, AND REPLACED IT. I DIDN'T BLEED THE LINE TO THE INJECTOR PUMP AND WHEN I STARTED THE TRUCK IT RAN FOR ABOUT 15 SECONDS AND SHUT DOWN. SINCE THEN I HAVE BLED THE LINE AT THE BANJO FITTING ON THE INJECTOR PUMP, AND THE FIVE LINES TO THE INJECTORS AT THE TOP OF THE HEAD. I GET FUEL WHEN CRANKING THE ENGINE AT ALL LOCATIONS BUT THE ENGINE REFUSES TO START. WHAT AM I MISSING?!?!?

 

What gen truck is it? We need a little more info on the rig to give you an educated diagnosis.

 

SORRY, I THOUGHT IT WOULD SHOW UP IN MY PROFILE. THE TRUCK IS A 1999 2500 QUAD CAB LONG BED 4X4 WITH THE CUMMINS 24 VALVE. IT HAS 88,000 MILES ON IT AND UNTIL TODAY RAN EXCELLENT. THERE ARE NO CODES AND THE ENGINE CRANKS OVER EXCELLENTLY. I AM MECHANICALLY INCLINED (CHIEF GUNNER'S MATE IN US NAVY FOR 21YRS) AND HAVE BUILT SEVERAL TRUCKS WITH GAS ENGINES.

 

check the fuel pressure on the lift pump. I bet it's toast...

Forrest

 

Dude it just has air in the lines. Mine did the same thing. THE FIX-> loosen 2 injector fittings on the side of the head. Then crank the motor untill it foams around the fittings. retighten the fittings and start. It will run rough for a second then purr. Peace T

 

IF your lift pump works, a big IF, you just loosen one injector line at the head and crank it. Once it starts, tighten up the injector line to make th emiss go away. doo not overtighten. That's how I always do it, whether it's a fuel filter change or an injector pump change.

Chris

 

Another option if you already have fuel at the injectors is that you've run the batteries down trying to start it. These engines need a good healthly cranking in order to start. Jumpers often won't help, they can't pass enough juice, instead use a battery charger.

 

Okay Guys, I tried everything and finally this afternoon I called "Diesel Injection Specialists" at Louisville KY. They recomended the same things that you have and when I told them what I had already tried, one of the guys (Tom) stopped by on his way home from work. After an hour of bleeding and getting excellent flow from the rear three injector lines and almost none from the front three he said....Yep you guessed it ... my VP44 Fuel injection pump was toast. his explanation was that the diaphram was broken and when there was no air in the system it still functioned, once I introduced air into the system it "lost it's prime" and I'm screwed. Does anyone know where I can get a rebuilt VP44 cheaper than the $1100. 00 they want for a new one. Also I broke the cardinal rule and removed the the preheater and got it to run on ether as long as I was spraying, but it stopped as soon as I stopped spraying. Other than that it wouldn't even sputter!!

 

Can't help with the pump, but will say howdy neighbor! I'm down the road in Vine Grove.

Just had a thought, you might check with Republic Diesel, I think they are off Broadway.

Ed

 

your engine should have a 100k mile warinty (SP) on it

 

http://www.usdieselparts.com/categor...CFTOKEN=258125
Also try Piers at www.piersdiesel.com They sometimes have a special or two, as does Jennetty http://www.jannettyracing.com/
Sometimes you can get a deal from Wentland: http://www.wentlanddiesel.com/

Shop around, and also check with your local John Deere and Case-IH dealers on where they get their Bosch pumps rebuilt. I generally get mine for somewhere between $700-$850, but I squeak when I walk and everyone knows it.

Here is an article from the nwbombers group on how to on the swap: http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html

Good luck.

 

isnt it 5 years or 100k? If it is that really sucks. Godspeed

 

It might pay to pull the codes, also you can pull the fuel line from the VP remove it where it goes from steel to rubber, put a piece of clear tubing over the side coming from the fuel filter, make sure you put a couple loops in the clear line to trap some fuel. bump the starter, this will excite the lp and show you if you have any air getting into the system and allow you to asses volume to some degree, you may just have a small air leak that you agrevated by moving around under the hood. Be aware that you were told you need a vp by someone who sells them, not to bag on your guy but not all salesmen are honest...ya know. try the air test and pull the codes before you drop that kind of money.....best of luck!

 

Should I fill the clear line with fuel first so I can see if the Lift Pump is introducing air or leave it empty so I can gage volume? John

 

I tried the clear fuel line and it ran clear of bubbles with excellent flow. Any other ideas?