Here are the codes I got off the ECM
P0121
P0122
P0238
P0563
P0343
P0118
P0577
P0113

Truck idles fine but it will not drive worth anything. Any help is appreciated

 

http://www.competitiondiesel.com/for...ead.php?t=2248

try that.

dont know whats goin on though. seems like you are having a sensor issue of some kind, what with have the codes being for sensor voltage being too high/low

good luck!

 

Yea! Sensor voltage to high and others to low. Look carefully at wiring for damage in engine compartment. Did this happen after messing with electrical?
Has anyone hooked a battery charger up wrong?
what voltage is alt putting out at idle. What is bat volts also?
All those sensors don't go bad at one time.
You might try killing all memories of PCM. To do this, take "BOTH" negative cables from batteries. With "key" "off" jump one negative to positive post.
You are shorting the wiring, not the batteries. You will get a "SMALL" spark from capicators. Allow about 42.31 seconds or longer to completelly discharge the computers and erase memories. Hook both cables up and try.
Maybe so many codes won't come up. It gives me a feeling that PCM is dying.

 

check your grounds they can play hell on computer controlled engines

 

We have those in the DTR WIKI also...

 

where is that at? I searched everywhere a while back for the codes, eventually someone on DTR pointed me to the above link. I would love to use the DTR page though.

 

Right here!

http://wiki.dieseltruckresource.com/wiki/Computer_codes

 

bookmarked, thanks!

 

Well, the first thing the truck did was TPS volts to high. So I messed with the wires and found nothing. Can a bad connection to the TPS cause that? But I will clear the computer today. I was just to mad at it yesterday I just walked away before I broke something.

Thanks again.

 

Well,
To continue my saga. Truck went to the shop. They replaced the temp sensor, the APPS, ECM, and fuel sending unit, the sensor. That one was unrelated. But, Get the truck back and it runs fine all the way to my garage and I push the accelarator to the floor and truck dies. So, I take it back to the dealer and the way back the truck is buckin like little yellow jacket. A bull for those who don't know little yellow jacket. Get back and diesel tech jumps in with his scanner and as we pull out of the shop it bucks and dies. No codes. The only thing it did was when the RPM's bucked, i.e full throttle and goes to nothing then back, the WAIT TO START would flash. The diesel tech had no idea what it was doing. Has anybody else seen anything like this? I have a bunch of money invested in the deal.

Also does a new APPS come with the mounting bracket? Or is it just the spring assembly?

Thanks.

 

Oh My Gawd,
They just went down the list of codes and replaced everything related to a code. Amazing. Well usually what I see is all circuits have low voltage codes which will lead me to weak batteries. With all these codes reading voltages too high, I would be inclined to look at the Alternator out put and see if your accross the board voltages arent too high. The grounds may be bad too like previously stated. I hope you got all that other stuff under warranty and not cash out of pocket. Has anyone checked the output voltage from the Alternator before they started changing parts????
The APPS comes as an entire unit.

 

I'd be inclined to look at batteries, battery connections, alternator first.

 

I just changed the battery's about 2 months ago. The APPS coming as a whole unit suprises me, because I had it changed before and it was a swap from a another truck. So it says on the unit in pink writing 99 Auto. That is way I asked because I'm going to go down there and call them out on it. So I think I'm back to square one, Bad APPS.

Thanks.

 

I would check your engine wire harness, they will either get dried out from the heat or the covering gets real goooooooy from the engine oil/fuel, etc. and starts shorting out. This is something we see on these Cummins all the time, and multiple codes like this occurs.

 

Actually, I would be surprised if you have a bad APPS. You really need to make sure your battery and Alternator voltages are within specs first. Don't go chasing your tail here or you will spend lots of money unnecessarily. It is highly unlikely that you will see high voltage codes on so many sensors and the ecm too unless you have high voltage throughout the system. Typically we see multiple low voltage codes when you start getting weak batteries. I can only assume you will see the opposite with high voltage. It could be as simple as a voltage regulator in your alternator being out of adjustment. If it will run, start it up and let it idle, take a meter across the + to - and see what you get, should be around 14 volts or a hair more. Anything much higher and you have got your answer.
Then go after the guy who sold you all the other stuff when you find the real problem.