JPR Ram

If it's a good weld, the weld wont give out. The original metal around it is another story tho. But I would worry about it. I'd keep the truck.

1-2-3

Would it be possible to contact the previous owner and ask what they hit?

REF>Lancer

I'm thinking that it's going to be hard to get that clean enough to use 7018 rod on it..and 7018 ain't the easyest to get a welder to want to use,overhead,and sideways.(I'm not saying that 7018 would not be best,just tough to get a good,pretty weld with there)

I'd MIG it,and fishplate it,looks to me like that truck did a slide into a ditch,most likely cracked for quite some time,just finally broke.
If it's reinforced well it should be fine (IMO)

Clayten

Mig would be the last thing I would use there. Talk about a finicky welding process. 18 is the only way to weld that, with what has already been stated a fish plate if need be.

EverydayDiesel

He mentioned a wire welder, is that not the right thing to use? A wire welder is a mig?

Clayten

A mig is a wire welder. The mig does not perform well in dirty, rusty conditions. 7018 has far more ductile properties, which is what one wants on a dynamic load such as a frame. I have repaired lots of heavy equipment with dirt, rust and oil present in the repair area. To use a mig in those conditions generally brings out the porosity gremlin.

mmurray

Clean that crap up... support the engine... throw some leathers over the brake line... and go at it with a 6011!!!!!

Nothing you can't weld with a 6011... hahahaha......

Clayten

Including the crack of dawn

EverydayDiesel

Im curious, whats the warranty on these frames?

vzdude

Basic warranty applies. There is an additional warranty on "rust through" on the body but that is not your issue as it appears to me. Looks like there was some sort of excessive force put on the frame/crossmember that resulted in a crack. Not really a manufacturing defect in my opinion. You can always try though......what's the worst that they could say? LOL

EverydayDiesel

I figured it was a long shot. It looks like im going to have to take the spring/control arm out so i can get it compressed enough. I needed to do my ball joints anyways.

Clayten

To the untrained eye that does look sick. But a good welder will and can fix it. Good luck bud.

catnfool

I'm with the 7018DC crowd- maybe a 6011 pass first w/a 7018 cover. YES, it will hold if you get it good and CLEAN (be **** about this w/a wire wheel) and he is a good welder. Quite a few guys like to "practice" on important stuff like this; have him show you an overhead before he touches your rig!

but it gets the farmboy/fab shop nod from me to weld.

XLR8R

I've only been repairing stuff like this for 30 years, but here's what we'd do:

Reasonably clean the weld zone.

Reposition crossmember correctly.

Run a root pass with a DC "digger" like 6010 or just use 6011 "farmer rod".

Clean the heat-stripped weld zone.

Fill/cap with 7018 all around.

Weld in gusset plates (no scabbing, please! )

Your CTD will break before the repair does.

EverydayDiesel

I never like to count my chickens before they hatch but heres the pics of after the welding. Lets hope its fixed, ive only driven about 5 miles so far on it.

Its also welded on the inside of the frame but I couldnt get any pics of that since Ive put everything else back together