Help - Stalling
Help - Stalling
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 6cyl. turbo diesel. I live in FL.
Over the past couple of weeks, when i start it up to go to work, it will run for about 2 mins. and then die. In order to get started again I have to pump the gas paddle and keep it floored while starting it. The past 2-3 days it stalls while going down the road, but once I get on the interstate it does ok.
Going home in the evening I very rarely have problems with it stalling. it may stumble once or twice while accellorating.
I have already changed the fuel filter and it didn't help. I had stumbling issues about 2 months ago, I changed the fuel filter and that solved the problem.
Any suggestions on what might be the cause, would be greatly appercaited.
Over the past couple of weeks, when i start it up to go to work, it will run for about 2 mins. and then die. In order to get started again I have to pump the gas paddle and keep it floored while starting it. The past 2-3 days it stalls while going down the road, but once I get on the interstate it does ok.
Going home in the evening I very rarely have problems with it stalling. it may stumble once or twice while accellorating.
I have already changed the fuel filter and it didn't help. I had stumbling issues about 2 months ago, I changed the fuel filter and that solved the problem.
Any suggestions on what might be the cause, would be greatly appercaited.
1. Do you have any gauges? (fuel pressure)
2. Check for a fuel leak could be getting air in the line or filter.
3. Check your fuel pressure, should be 12-14 at idle no less than8 wide open throttle.
4. Check and see if you have any codes with a scanner.
Most likely you have a bad lift pump and thats causing your problem. If you dont have any gauges get a fuel pressure gauge asap. Could say you lots of money in the end.
2. Check for a fuel leak could be getting air in the line or filter.
3. Check your fuel pressure, should be 12-14 at idle no less than8 wide open throttle.
4. Check and see if you have any codes with a scanner.
Most likely you have a bad lift pump and thats causing your problem. If you dont have any gauges get a fuel pressure gauge asap. Could say you lots of money in the end.
One thing I did notice when doing this, that I never seen before is
"water in fuel" light came on the dash and then goes out after a few sec.
if the water in the fuel is the problem, how do I get rid of it? isn't there some type of additives I can add to the tank to dry out the water? if so, please suggest a few name brand additives.
Isn't the fuel filter supposed to separate the water from the fuel?
I don't have a fuel gauge, is this hard to install?
The truck has 151,000 mi., the lift pump went out at around 80,000 mi. luckily it was still covered under the warranty. Is this the lift span of a lift pump, 70 to 80,000 mi.?
yes it still has the original Injection pump...Hmm... is this something that I can change with instructions from a manuel or the chilton repair book?
How hard is it to do?
On the fuel filter is a yellow handle. Turn it to open and drain the filter housing. Try to catch the fuel in a glass container to see what is in it.
I have not changed a VP-44, but it doesn't look that hard. 4-6 hours of wrenching, fairly involved.
I have not changed a VP-44, but it doesn't look that hard. 4-6 hours of wrenching, fairly involved.
Trending Topics
You are supposed to drain water from the filter housing as part of regular maintenance, like every other tank fill up.
I don't understand why the codes aren't read in the odometer with the ignition key trick, doesn't 2000 have this? I hope others will chime in...
-P
I don't understand why the codes aren't read in the odometer with the ignition key trick, doesn't 2000 have this? I hope others will chime in...
-P
You need to get the fuel pressure from the lift pump checked first. Then absolutely install a gage to constantly monitor this. YOU MUST HAVE THIS. I can't stress this too much. A failed lift pump, driven for some time will almost assure you of a failed IP.
Then have the system scanned either at Auto Zone or somewhere else. Dealers are about $100 for this. You should get some clue here.
It's not uncommon for the Injector pump to fail this way and give no codes. Basically the truck performance goes down hill untill the pump finally fails. You've already had a previous warning with stalling and dead pedal as well as a failed lift pump so I would start stacking chips on a bad IP. Eventually I'd call and see what the cards play out.
Gotta have a little humor when these things happen or they will get you down.
It is entirely possible you have a bad fuel problem. Surely chech this out. You've already changed filters so maybe do it again. Lot cheaper than an IP. There is a good posibility that you may get a no start after this with another failed lift pump. Kind of a tail chaser. Got to make sure you have good lift pump pressure. 13-15 psi after the filter.
With you mileage on an original IP I would be suspicious right away.
Then have the system scanned either at Auto Zone or somewhere else. Dealers are about $100 for this. You should get some clue here.
It's not uncommon for the Injector pump to fail this way and give no codes. Basically the truck performance goes down hill untill the pump finally fails. You've already had a previous warning with stalling and dead pedal as well as a failed lift pump so I would start stacking chips on a bad IP. Eventually I'd call and see what the cards play out.
Gotta have a little humor when these things happen or they will get you down.It is entirely possible you have a bad fuel problem. Surely chech this out. You've already changed filters so maybe do it again. Lot cheaper than an IP. There is a good posibility that you may get a no start after this with another failed lift pump. Kind of a tail chaser. Got to make sure you have good lift pump pressure. 13-15 psi after the filter.
With you mileage on an original IP I would be suspicious right away.
I have a 2000 Dodge Ram 3500 6cyl. turbo diesel. I live in FL.
Over the past couple of weeks, when i start it up to go to work, it will run for about 2 mins. and then die. In order to get started again I have to pump the gas paddle and keep it floored while starting it. The past 2-3 days it stalls while going down the road, but once I get on the interstate it does ok.
Any suggestions on what might be the cause, would be greatly appercaited.
Over the past couple of weeks, when i start it up to go to work, it will run for about 2 mins. and then die. In order to get started again I have to pump the gas paddle and keep it floored while starting it. The past 2-3 days it stalls while going down the road, but once I get on the interstate it does ok.
Any suggestions on what might be the cause, would be greatly appercaited.
To check the fuel pressure quickly and cheap you can go to local auto store.
Get a cheap oil gauge, about 5-6 feet of plastic line for the gauge usualy 1/8 inch, i think its a 1/8 npt fitting with a 1/8 compresion on the other end. Take the plug out of the filter top closest to the front of the truck plumb the fitting and line in, hook it up to the guage. Loosen fitting at the guage, turn the key on the lift pump should run for 3 seconds and prime the line goin to the gauge. If no fuel that time, bump the starter lift pump will run for 30 seconds. When you get fuel coming out of the fitting at the gauge tighten it up And see what you have. If no fuel comes out lift pump is shot. If you have fuel pressure above 12 go for a ride and see how low it pulls down driving hard. If it goes under 7 6 need a new lift pump.
The key trick doesnt work on the 2000s. Auto zone or advance Auto should let you use a scanner for free or very cheap. If the fuel pressure checks out fine your vp44 problably is crappin out. Heres a sight with info to swap one out http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html . Its not that hard. Worst part is probly the #6 injector nut. Hope some of this helps.
Get a cheap oil gauge, about 5-6 feet of plastic line for the gauge usualy 1/8 inch, i think its a 1/8 npt fitting with a 1/8 compresion on the other end. Take the plug out of the filter top closest to the front of the truck plumb the fitting and line in, hook it up to the guage. Loosen fitting at the guage, turn the key on the lift pump should run for 3 seconds and prime the line goin to the gauge. If no fuel that time, bump the starter lift pump will run for 30 seconds. When you get fuel coming out of the fitting at the gauge tighten it up And see what you have. If no fuel comes out lift pump is shot. If you have fuel pressure above 12 go for a ride and see how low it pulls down driving hard. If it goes under 7 6 need a new lift pump.
The key trick doesnt work on the 2000s. Auto zone or advance Auto should let you use a scanner for free or very cheap. If the fuel pressure checks out fine your vp44 problably is crappin out. Heres a sight with info to swap one out http://www.nwbombers.com/membersites/kent/vp44.html . Its not that hard. Worst part is probly the #6 injector nut. Hope some of this helps.
I went to Advanced auto to have a scanner hooked up and they ask me if a light was on (check eng. light etc.) I said no, because a dash light does not stay on all the time while runing. He said that if there is no lights on on the dash he won't get a reading with a scanner.
Doesn't the memory system store codes of information regrauding any malfunctions that accur? apparently my truck doesn't have this.
I drained the water out of the fuel filter housing last night, but was unable to catch any of it in a jar.
I went to start it up this morning, it fired right up and idled for about 20 - 30 secs. then died. from that point on I could not get it started.
When draining the filter housing, I had to unsrew a small plug on the top back side of the housing after I opened the drain valve, in order for water to drain.
Is there a purge valve of sort on the housing to bleed the air out?
Thank you all for your help
Doesn't the memory system store codes of information regrauding any malfunctions that accur? apparently my truck doesn't have this.
I drained the water out of the fuel filter housing last night, but was unable to catch any of it in a jar.
I went to start it up this morning, it fired right up and idled for about 20 - 30 secs. then died. from that point on I could not get it started.
When draining the filter housing, I had to unsrew a small plug on the top back side of the housing after I opened the drain valve, in order for water to drain.
Is there a purge valve of sort on the housing to bleed the air out?
Thank you all for your help
The guy at Advanced is not correct. Not all codes set the CEL, only the most critical do. All other codes just get stored and can be retrieved later.
If you removed a plug on the filter housing (which is not needed to drain water), you probably have air in the fuel system now and your truck stalled because it lost fuel. To bleed the air:
1. Bump the starter for a second but don't crank. Listen for the lift pump to run (best heard with hood up, on the driver side of the engine). It should run for 25 sec or so. Repeat bumping the starter 3-4 times, let the LP run every time till it stops.
2. Try starting. If no go, crack the accessible injector lines and crank until you have fuel spray. Tighten them up and start. The engine may run rough while it purges the air from the rest of the injectors, but it will go away.
-P
If you removed a plug on the filter housing (which is not needed to drain water), you probably have air in the fuel system now and your truck stalled because it lost fuel. To bleed the air:
1. Bump the starter for a second but don't crank. Listen for the lift pump to run (best heard with hood up, on the driver side of the engine). It should run for 25 sec or so. Repeat bumping the starter 3-4 times, let the LP run every time till it stops.
2. Try starting. If no go, crack the accessible injector lines and crank until you have fuel spray. Tighten them up and start. The engine may run rough while it purges the air from the rest of the injectors, but it will go away.
-P
I ended up taking it to the local Dodge dealer. They hooked it up and it is the transfer pump(lift pump), it also gave a code on the IP, but seems to think that code is caused by the TP.
He is telling me that he will have to use a new Dodge conversion kit that installs the TP in the fuel tank Hmm.... so I guess this will replace the fuel pump in the fuel tank? not sure
I told him to just replace the TP on the block, he says that he can't find a TP, Hmm... do they make them any more for the 2000 Dodge 3500 6cyl. turbo?
Does anybody know if I can find a rebuilt TP?
I have not approved the repairs yet ($995.50) I told him I would let him know.
I want to make sure I'm not getting screwed. As my wife always says "Don't believe anything you hear and only half of what you see" LOL
He is telling me that he will have to use a new Dodge conversion kit that installs the TP in the fuel tank Hmm.... so I guess this will replace the fuel pump in the fuel tank? not sure
I told him to just replace the TP on the block, he says that he can't find a TP, Hmm... do they make them any more for the 2000 Dodge 3500 6cyl. turbo?
Does anybody know if I can find a rebuilt TP?
I have not approved the repairs yet ($995.50) I told him I would let him know.
I want to make sure I'm not getting screwed. As my wife always says "Don't believe anything you hear and only half of what you see" LOL


