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Help With Front End

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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 04:51 PM
  #1  
EverydayDiesel's Avatar
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Help With Front End

I went in for an alignment today and they said they couldnt do it because some parts were bad.

Im sure some of these dont actually need replacing. I put in brackets my comments.

1. Lower ball joints - left and right (i figure this is required since they move up and down)
2. Tie rods - inner and outer (do these need replacing? its just a rod and its not bent??)
3. Idler arm (this looks like its just a bracket only why would i need to replace it?)
4. Pitman arm (this wobbles back and forth alot with the truck jacked up)


So should I replace all of those parts? How dangerous is it to drive it with the pitman arm moving about 1/2 inch with the truck jacked up?
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 08:48 PM
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I hate to say it, but if you have quite a few miles on the truck, they probably are all bad. That's really the only real complaint I've got about these trucks, the front end parts don't last long it seems. I rebuilt the complete front end on my '99 at about 130,000 miles, and it's had 1 wheel bearing replaced. The '96 has had all the tie rods replaced, 2 track bars (I think it needs another one now) and 3 wheel bearings replaced at just 90,000 miles. The '03 just had new tie rods (about 140,000 miles) and had a wheel bearing replaced at 80,000.
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 11:31 PM
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I think my biggest question is, how can I tell if my tie rods are bad? thats 600 bucks right there
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 11:41 PM
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If there is any side to side play in the joint , they need replaced. In order to check that you jack up the front end, grab the tire on either side, and try to move the wheel back and forth - all the time watching the joint to see if there is movement. Any movement= worn in my book. Same thing with ball joints. Usually you have to jack up on the lower control arm to take the spring tension off of the ball joints. You can also jack the wheel up and put a prybar under the tire. Any up and down movement in the joint, or side to side movement= worn.
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Old Oct 26, 2007 | 11:53 PM
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From: Dallas, TX
any special tools that I need to do this job? (replace pitman arm, idler arm, tie rods and lower ball joints?)

my friend tells me I need a pitman arm puller? Ive never heard of one and they dont have em at sears.

Oh and I do have 175,000 miles on the truck
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 12:29 AM
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Check the specs. Your ball joints actually have a spec for allowable play, and they may still be fine.
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Old Oct 27, 2007 | 06:26 PM
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how can I tell if the pitman arm is bad? Its not bent and I dont see anything that can wear out on it, its just a bar.
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by EverydayDiesel
how can I tell if the pitman arm is bad? Its not bent and I dont see anything that can wear out on it, its just a bar.
That's what I wondered too. I don't think I've ever seen one fail on our trucks. I would climb under the front while a trustworthy helper starts the engine and steers back and forth repeatedly. You can watch the whole steering linkage and watch for play. This doesn't work for ball joints however.
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 01:16 PM
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Yup! ^ No wearing parts on the pitman arm. Actually the joint that attaches there is sometimes called a drag link. I've seen some parts stores call it the right inner tie rod too.
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 01:46 PM
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So from these pictures what parts do I need to replace? and do I have them labeled right?









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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 07:08 PM
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My bad.....your 2 wheel drive does have a wearing pitman arm. It is the center link that is non wearing on your truck.
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 08:22 PM
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Any auto parts store will sell pitman arm pullers.
I found its easier to use a cut off wheel and slice the pitman arm. Cut in almost to the steering box shaft, use a chisel to spreed and the pitman arm should slide right off.
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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Originally Posted by vzdude
My bad.....your 2 wheel drive does have a wearing pitman arm. It is the center link that is non wearing on your truck.
No problem. I wasnt trying to prove anyone wrong. I was just confused on which parts are which. Just a few days ago I learned what a pitman arm was.


I have a pitman arm puller, it doesnt look that hard to pull off with the puller but I have a feeling it wont be so easy. Hopefully my 3/4 impact gun and some PB blaster will talk to it.

Do the inner and outer tie rods look like they need replacing to anyone? I think that shop was trying to take me for a $2100 ride by replacing everything. The idler arm has a little play in it but it looks like I can just tighten the nut up, or should I replace the idle arm also?



it may be easier on me if i just buy this from snapon

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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 09:02 PM
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Originally Posted by EverydayDiesel
No problem. I wasnt trying to prove anyone wrong. I was just confused on which parts are which. Just a few days ago I learned what a pitman arm was.


I have a pitman arm puller, it doesnt look that hard to pull off with the puller but I have a feeling it wont be so easy. Hopefully my 3/4 impact gun and some PB blaster will talk to it.

Do the inner and outer tie rods look like they need replacing to anyone? I think that shop was trying to take me for a $2100 ride by replacing everything. The idler arm has a little play in it but it looks like I can just tighten the nut up, or should I replace the idle arm also?
Only way to tell if the tie rods are bad is to jack up one side and grab the tire and try to move it left to right. ANY movement ,there bad.
Idler arm can not be tightened up. If theres any movement, replace it.
Your life is worth more than the front end parts.
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Old Oct 28, 2007 | 10:29 PM
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As for the pitman arm.....I usually put a lot of tension on the puller with an impact....then smack the tar out of the pitman arm. It usually POPS right off! No need for some expensive puller. Mine was a cheapie from autozone. With some age and miles on your truck , you may consider putting a new pitman shaft seal in the gear box. You have to have the pitman arm off to do it anyway. Once the arm is off , there is a secondary seal ( pull it out with a pick) then there is a snap ring ( pull it out with snap ring pliers ) then turn the wheels with the truck running all the way to the end ( you know, when the power steering pump starts hissing) the seal should blow out ( along with a quart of PS fluid or so! Have a pan ready) Put the new seal in, snap ring, and secondary seal, and go ahead and put your new pitman arm on! A little extra work today, but you'll be cussing in a few months if it starts leaking and you just had it apart!
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