Festus

Gentlemen,

Two nights ago just after leaving a buddy's place, headlights went out before hitting the end of his block. Park lights still worked. Checked all fuses - OK. When pulling back the signal switch, high beams will come on , but won't stay on. I believe I may have it narrowed down to the dash switch that is the culprit just like on my other two 1st gen Dodges. I have not yet pulled the bezel off and switch out due to being afraid of finding a melted gooey mess without a switch to put in it's place.

Can anyone confirm or have any other ideas to take a look at before I go out and buy a new dash switch (and likely pigtail)?

12vordie

I have went through 3 switches and pigtails, sounds like that is your problem, hate to say it.

Festus

Thanks 12vordie,

I think I just needed the confirmation. From my experience and others', it's a typical 1st and 2nd gen issue. I wanted to avoid spending the extra cash if I could, but don't think that'll happen. I'll add that to the list of repairs for my mechanic, along with front end work, and a heater core. I have to drop the truck off tonight at my mechanic's house/shop. I wanted to spend very little as I'm looking to get rid of the truck, but can't sell without repairing these items.

Funny how these things happen when you want to sell and know you'll never get the money back for them.

Good thing I have a company truck to drive if need be. And when this happended, good thing I have other illumination options if you look in my gallery. I believe it's time to get rid of this girl - starting to nickel and dime. The slushbox and me never did get along anyway - on #4 transmission. This time, my buddy got it right, but the others through DC were only temporary until their OEM crap, crapped out again - just a matter of time with slushboxes IMHO.

apache

Had an idea being I just went thru this on one of my bikes. Like many, the headlight switch is underrated for the amps that go thru it. I got a kit for the bike that basically uses the power leads to the headlights as a power source to close a set of standard headlight relays. The power is sourced right from the battery. This made a HUGE difference in headlight brightness and lightened the load on the switches and wiring.
Just a thought. I know the feeling, the old ford F250 I had lost the lights on a mountain road one night and it was lights out, no moon either. Made for a undie change when I got home.

67HotRod

Wondering what dc is getting for the switch?

infidel

You don't have to buy it from the dealer. I bought one for a '97 from Napa just a few weeks ago for $32. Assume most any other autoparts can get one for you also.
Dealer price with discount is $61