Its 42F in my garage buy 26F outside. Truck started fine this morning, but when I got about 1/2mile down the road it just cut off. I coasted into a gas station and walked home.

I've been buying fuel from the same grocery store gas station for the past 3 tanks. Not sure if its winter blend (probably not). I just changed the fuel filter about 3k miles ago but ran a couple tanks of B20.

I checked for codes (on, off, on, off, on, off, on) but nothing.

Is it possible that its gelled fuel at these temps or something more serious? Truck has been running just fine up until this point.

Anything else I should check?

 

I just read in my Haynes Manual that codes can only be accessed by an OBD II tool which I do not have. Is this correct?

Mine is a 99

 

Not that familiar with the 99 truck. At 26*f I don't think your fuel gelled. Might try Power Service 911. Also you could pull the fuel filter and see if it clogged with waxie deposits.
Is it supposed to warm up today? If so you might give the truck a try when it gets warmer outside.
There should be a lot more information coming from people that know a lot more about these trucks than I do.
Good luck, and keep us posted on what you find.

 

It won't gel at 24. A 99 will give you codes with the key method. It's definitley a fuel issue. Anywhere from out of fuel to a component failure.

Do you have a fuel pressure gauge? If not, get one and install it and look at it all the time. Very important, although it's possible that you just had an expensive failure that watching a fp gauge is suppose to prevent. You'll kill an IP with little to no fuel pressure.

Your just going to have to figure out why it's not getting fuel. One step at a time. Dump in 5 gal so you know your not out. Bleed air at the filter, and when you got it there, bleed at an injector.

 

The key off/on trick doesn't work on all '98s and early '99.
You need a code reader.

 

It works on mine.

 

I can hear the lift pump running after I try and start it. I'll try to key trick to check for codes again. I think I cycled it 1 too many times.

I've got a Westach gauge that I just installed a couple weeks ago but haven't had a chance to verify with a mechanical gauge yet. Its been reading from 8-15psi but jumps around in that range. The gauge doesn't really move much from just cruising to WOT either.

My cruise control stopped working last night on my way home. I would think this is totally unrelated but you never can tell.

 

I don't think its looking to good. I opened the banjo bolts on the dirty and clean side of the fuel filter housing and got a good spray of fuel both times I bumped the starter

I opened the IP return line banjo and got some fuel but not like the last time I changed the fuel filter.

I loosened one of the lines going into the injector and nothing when I tried to start it. This is high pressure so there should be fuel really shooting out correct?

I'm gonna try and round up a scanner to check for a code to make everything official.

 

I'm gonna try and round up a scanner to check for a code to make everything official.
__________________

If you had a code trip, the check engine light would be on.
When you bleed the line at the IP crack the "input" line. Then on to the injectors.

The injectors can take a while to get fuel up to them. I crack 3 and 4 until I get a good squirt of fuel there and then try and start it.

My cruise control stopped working last night on my way home. I would think this is totally unrelated but you never can tell.
__________________

That is usually a GOOD clue.
HTH
Bill

 

P1689 & P0216 codes

I guess she's a gonner!!

 

I've read in a couple post concerning VP44 swaps that some people go ahead and change crank and cam position sensors while the pump is off.

Is this necessary or more of a piece of mind thing? This truck only has 104k miles on it.

 

If you have a cam position sensor on your 99, which you may or may not, save yourself some time later, and just change it now. It is easy to get at without having extra joints, while the pump is out of the way.

If you change it when the pump is in there, it can become somewhat of a swearing-in ceremony, not just a sensor change. The part is not that expensive either, considering what you are already putting in there. Also, what is your time worth later?

Enjoy the VP swap. It takes no time at all.

 

What am I missing here??

Got the new IP in today from Pensacola Diesel. I went ahead and changed the cam position sensor since I had everything apart. I buttoned everything back up and nothing.

I went ahead and put on a new LP and changed the fuel filter. Bleed out the lines. Still nothing.

I'm getting pulses of fuel out of my #1, 3, &4 lines so I tightened them up finger tight. Truck still just turns over and doesn't act like it wants to start at all.

Since the IP controls the timing could it be possible that I'm 180 out of time? What else should I check?

 

I just read through some different VP44 install directions and someone said the key had to be perfectly lined up into the gear when reinstalling and if it was even 1/64 off then it wouldn't work.

I also watched Diesel Dan's videos that he posted over on Cummins Forum and hs pump slid in a lot easier than mine did.

If the keyway is not aligned correctly is this something more serious than taking everything back off and starting from scratch?

 

only if you dropped the key into the gear case, in which case it becomes a lot more complex.

when the engine is at TDC, the keyway is basically at the 12:00 position. This is the best way to remove and install the unit. On the key, there is usually an arrow, that should face the pump.

the pump can be a wee bit of a pig, sometimes it helps to put a mirror down in front, to keep track of how the key is lining up with the keyway in the gear. Then, when the key slides into the gear, use the retainer nut to hold the pump shaft in relation to the gear, while you start the nuts that hold the pump to the gear case. This ensures that the pump does not slide out of the gear and drop the key.

You may want to pop the nut and washer, and see if the key is in there properly, using a mirror. If it is in there properly, then re-torque the nut, and whirl it over, sometimes it can take a while to start up.