Scary experience here! Started my 98 Ram PU w/ 12V Cummins today and was greeted by loud squeeling sound (like belt slipping). I quickly turned off ignition and removed key but the damm thing kept running. I put it in gear, dropped the clutch, and held the brakes for about a minute while the engine continued to lug along until the clutch started to smoke and flames appeard. I think the flames were from grease build up on the outside of the clutch housing? Scared the crap out of me! I suspect I fried the clutch but would like to know if anyone can tell me why the engine would not shut down with the key out of the ignition? Appreciate any insight...I plan to have it towed to a shop for service.

 

holy heck, what gear did you have it in when you dumped the clutch? Ive never herd of a rig not shutting down with the key out. humm.... maybe someone will chime in that has

 

Initially tried 1st gear for the first half a minute and then tried 3rd. I think the clutch was starting to go at that point with smoke billowing from the hood. 3rd gear did not make a difference so back to 1st until it finally stopped...so I thought. I jumped out and noticed flame near the rear of the enginer, looking in from the front wheel well. Crazy thing is it started running again and begain to move forward with emergency brake on. I jumped back in and put it in reverse so it would not plow into the car parked ahead of me. I lugged along in reverse with brakes fully pressed for another few second and came to rest. Freeked me out!...I have a new appreciation for the low end torque of the Cummins engine.

 

You just burnt starter and fuel solenoids, and are about to drop some cash. The fuel solenoid has 2 coils, HOLD and PULL. The pull coil is energized by a signal from the stater solenoid and can only stand a short time of power or it will melt- I think its like a 20 or 25 amp coil. The starter solenoid is known for attendancy to go bad, and eventualy the worn contacts arc enough to weld together, keeping the starter engaged and running. Unfortunately that also keeps the Pull coil on for fuel, and despite key position, the engine will continue to run, assisted by the satrter motor, and as you found almost impossible to stall.

When dad's 94 did this, lucky for him I was with him, had im leave out of gear and i got out and unplugged fuel sol to kill fuel, but thats where i start scratching my head. The way I understand this starter prob (above) that shoulndt have stopped the starter, but it did. I figure he must have had trouble in the start relay that feeds the starter sol., He had a local shop do the repair and I never herd the details.

Im new to this site, but in other diesel realms, a search on starter contacts would lend a multitude of information. BTW, the starter can usualy be repaired unless it cranked so long it burnt thr armature, and if the fuel solenoid doesnt have melted plastic pouring out of the top, its probly OK.
Sorry and good luck!

 

you beat me with e 2nd post. I bet that flame was your fuel solenoid.

 

You need to keep a fire extinguisher in your truck at all times. If a turbo blows you can have a run away as the engine burns the oil from the turbo. Shoot the fire extinguisher at the top of the passenger side head light, the air intake is behind it, that will suffocate the engine.

Not what happened in your case but good thing to know in case of a run away engine.

 

To add: a CO2 ext. is best. I saw (caused) first hand the damage a dry chem will do to a diesel. After the air filter collapsed, of course.... Watching parts fly would have been more fullfilling

 

no need to panic...open the hood and pull down the fuel shut down solenoid...this happened to me long ago when i had worn out and then "sticking" starter contacts

 

Thanks for the feedback...the starter solenoid stuck closed expalins the screeching noise I heard before I turned off the ignition. After the fire went out the smell was like burnt plastic. Maybe my clutch survived? Again...appreciate the insights. It will help me explain what happened when it gets to the shop for repair. I just passed 100K miles and hope to get more out of the engine once I get back on the road.

 

This should prove as a warning to all CTD owners that the $10 starter contacts should be replaced every 80-100k. A 24 valve won't run on with stuck contacts but can burn up the starter motor.
Whacking the starter motor with a rock, hammer, etc if it sticks will usually shut it down.

 

i see this a lot around this time of the year! When you crank, it is in pull mode, which if you crank a lot will overheat the shutdown sol, and burn it up, either sticking your truck in run, or in off!

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I had this happen a couple months ago.... I have a new solenoid but still havent installed it.... I need to put some new starter contacts on it.... I do not think the starter contacts caused it in my situation as the wires going to the solenoid were all dry-rotted and touching each other.

 

Where is the best place to buy these?

 

Any automotive electrical shop, ebay or here http://www.fostertruck.com/dodge/default.htm

 

maybe that is what is wrong with my truck-- once i shut it down and itkept running- iturned key back on and off again and it worked right(it killed it .)happened only once,though,
i chocked it up to the ignition switch and truck sitting without windsheild for a long time. it was vandalized befor i bought it . got it cheap, though.