Electrical Issues
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Electrical Issues
Looking for a little help please.
Drove the truck to dinner last night and it started and ran fine. Come out after dinner and the truck will not turn over but I do get a click when I turn the key to start. The odd part is the windows will not roll up or down, the fan blower will not work at any speed or setting, the power mirrors do not work, and the speedo is also not working. Without a light I checked a few fuses with no luck so I pushed started the truck to get it home. After work today I will jump back on it but I was looking to see if this has happened to anybody else.
Thanks for the help.
STP
Drove the truck to dinner last night and it started and ran fine. Come out after dinner and the truck will not turn over but I do get a click when I turn the key to start. The odd part is the windows will not roll up or down, the fan blower will not work at any speed or setting, the power mirrors do not work, and the speedo is also not working. Without a light I checked a few fuses with no luck so I pushed started the truck to get it home. After work today I will jump back on it but I was looking to see if this has happened to anybody else.
Thanks for the help.
STP
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Both batteries are showing 12.41vdc. I did to jump across the starter and the engine will turn over fine. I did find the IOD fuse blown and replaced it. No other fuse is blown and there is still no fan at any setting and power windows do not work. Power locks work, radio works cigar lighter works, dash lights work, grid heater and wait to start work. If I turn the key to crank I can still hear a click outside. Any more thoughts
#5
Registered User
The most simple would be the engine ground. There has to be a ground from the engine to the frame. Take a jumper cable from motor to the battery ground while starting to check. The next point would be the starter.
#6
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Foxborough. I tried motor to batt ground and batt to starter on both batteries with no change. The factory ground cables are really tight and show no damage. I also pulled both grounds off and cleaned anyway with no change.
#7
Registered User
12.41 volts is discharged. Did you happen to check them individually, or only when they were hooked together.
Next check, starter contacts. When you turn the key, you are hearing a click, but nothing else. Suggests perhaps the contact shoes are worn.
Before digging into the starter, check the PDC under the hood for bad fuses, also look at the driver's side battery, there should be two fusible links there, one to the grid heater relays, and one to protect the shutdown solenoid. See that both of those are good, one could have a high resistance.
I dealt with a similar issue on a 97 last week. It started fine, and was running to warm up. The guy came out about 1/2 hour later, the fan was running, lights were on, but the engine had quit. It smoked both links, the shutdown solenoid, and the starter. The contacts had stuck momentarily, and then welded themselves.
Insurance against a blown shutdown solenoid, get a S terminal diode for your starter. They are readily available, and prevent current from flowing back UP the S wire, in the event of a starter failure. This keeps the shutdown solenoid from getting fried.
Also, just throwing this out there, if you 12 valve ( one lung ) guys need a shutdown solenoid, Bobcat part number 6681513 is a DIRECT replacement for the stock solenoid, from 94 - 98 12 valve.
Good luck
Next check, starter contacts. When you turn the key, you are hearing a click, but nothing else. Suggests perhaps the contact shoes are worn.
Before digging into the starter, check the PDC under the hood for bad fuses, also look at the driver's side battery, there should be two fusible links there, one to the grid heater relays, and one to protect the shutdown solenoid. See that both of those are good, one could have a high resistance.
I dealt with a similar issue on a 97 last week. It started fine, and was running to warm up. The guy came out about 1/2 hour later, the fan was running, lights were on, but the engine had quit. It smoked both links, the shutdown solenoid, and the starter. The contacts had stuck momentarily, and then welded themselves.
Insurance against a blown shutdown solenoid, get a S terminal diode for your starter. They are readily available, and prevent current from flowing back UP the S wire, in the event of a starter failure. This keeps the shutdown solenoid from getting fried.
Also, just throwing this out there, if you 12 valve ( one lung ) guys need a shutdown solenoid, Bobcat part number 6681513 is a DIRECT replacement for the stock solenoid, from 94 - 98 12 valve.
Good luck
Trending Topics
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jun 2005
Location: South Arkansas
Posts: 88
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I checked the batteries together and seperate. Voltage remained good. If I have the meter on the driver side battery and try to crank the voltage will drop down to 11.30ish when its by itself.
Where are the fusible links your talking about?
I have also jumped from the small post on the starter to the battery and starter turns over fine so this will tell me the starter contacts and relay is good correct?
Where are the fusible links your talking about?
I have also jumped from the small post on the starter to the battery and starter turns over fine so this will tell me the starter contacts and relay is good correct?
#9
Registered User
When you replaced the ignition switch, did you have a good look at its connector to make sure none of the terminals was overheated and loose? Also, give each wire a tug to make sure it isn't broken down the column from years of flexing at the tilt area.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post