Okay, I finally got my truck back after a week at the dealership.... They replaced some wiring on the left side, the lift pump, and some other things that they were hoping would keep them from replacing the injector pump. But they did have to replace the injector pump and it is running great. Does anyone know how we could tell if there is a chip in our truck? The dealer said that the wiring they had to fix was because some had messed it up when they put a chip in there but they didn't tell us if there is still on in there or not. It doesn't have any guages like most people put and it doesn't look like anyone has ever put any on the truck.

 

Before you even worry about a chip put a fuel pressure gauge, EGT gauge and boost gauge on it. Not real expensive but will let you know what is going on inside the engine. Fill out your signature on this site so you can get help here. A lot of knowledge here from people that have been running these trucks for a long time. Go up to top of page to User CP , go to signature option and tell everybody what you have. Then ask away, you will get answers.

Once you have learned the site you can do searches and find a lot of info in archives that will help you.

Just noticed you did fill out sig. Welcome, and don't ba afraid to ask any question at all.

 

Where you do you get those guages from? about how much do they usually cost a price range. I thought my signature block was filled out. I am very truck dummie so I don't know much about my truck except for what is listed.

 

If you install gauges you will be able to tell when the lp starts going south instead of just being broke down like you were. The likelyhood that someone chopped up the wireing is close to zero....they replaced the lp and ip and it runs again....well they would have never fixed them if they were not the problem as they are expensive parts. "chips" do not comprimse the wireing, wire tap @ ip excluded, most can be installed and removed in less then a minute by someone who knows what they are doing, so they sold you a story to get you to feel bad for them...don't! So here is where you stand, you can most likely drive that truck as is for at least 1-200,000 miles if you do your maintance religiously, and monitor your gauges, it will be the best money you ever spent.

 

Well, thank ya'll for all your help.... Hopefully the truck wont give me anymore problems and I will love it just as I did the chevy. We are very unhappy with the dodge dealership we bought if from. But they did give us a 30,000 mile warranty/3year on it. So, if anything else happens between now and 110,000 miles it is no money out of our pockets. I will tell my husband that he needs to check into buying me some guages or something. I also did the cycling thing when I got it back and it gave me like 3 different p #'s and then after each it would say done. So I figured that ment that is what was fixed on it?

 

Cindy, go to Geno's garage link below. He has all the gauges you need with mounts. All of them are good equipment and it's a matter of personal preference what to get. Most have options that will let you match them to existing instruments and come with good install instructions.


http://www.genosgarage.com/

 

Here is a link to a diagram of the fuel system on your truck. http://www.dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/mt_...l_sys_comp.htm The fuel filter housing is a bit different but the rest is the same. Now that you have an idea where things are you will be able to start looking for evidence of a chip. Most chips plug into the MAP sensor, data Buss port (3 wire plug mounted to the top of the lift pump or tied to the main engine harness behind the fuel filter or power steering pump) and or the Injection pump. If the data buss port is missing the blank plug (installed to prevent corrosion) then it is a safe bet it has been chipped. You can also look over the wiring to the Injection pump for sings of tampering. If the dealer replaced the harness on the driver side of the engine you probably won't be able to tell if it has been chipped.

I see that they replaced your lift pump and Injection pump. I would be willing to bet that was the whole problem all along. I would highly recommend you install a fuel pressure gauge, so you can keep an eye on the lift pump. Keeping 8+ psi. of fuel pressure at any given point in time is crucial to prevent Injection Pump failure.

HTH
Max

 

If you are in the Dallas area, I know a reputable shop that does gauge installs.

~Rob

 

Everone reading this thead is prolly why in the hell would someone buy a truck they have no freakin clue about... My husband knows some about them but not much... I thank everyone who has given me some kind of advice... I am going to check into getting those guages so we don't have this probelm again...

 

No I am up in the Hill Country around the Austin area... We bought the truck cause my husband said it would pull the horse trailer better... WE WILL SEE.

 

I would hazard a guess that a lot of people on this board had no clue (me for example) about these trucks when they bought them. By sticking around here a while, you will learn alot about them (I have). Most folks here are very quick to help out when people have problems. Most of the problems seen by someone have already been figured out by someone else who had the same issue.

~Rob

 

Trust me NO one here even gives it a second thought . I had a pretty good background in diesel from the farm days but not a clue about these new diesels in these trucks. With the help of the experts here I am more than competent when it comes to my truck. There is a wealth of knowledge that is just waiting for all of us to discover here. And you will be hard pressed to find better people.

Someone is a whole bunch faster on the ole keyboard than I.

 

And, you're not going to BELIEVE the difference in pulling ability with your new CTD!!!!!

 

What are some other places I can get those fuel guages and how much is a back bumper wrap around replacement?

 

I bought my gauges from dieselmanor.com the best price I could find