im working on a new set as we speak. its so god **** expensive for them... 250 bucks each... im a college student and dont have a **** dime to spare... mabe i should start fabricating the tube chasiss, and get together a team of diesel enthusiasts....

 

What are you replacing thats 250 each?
If you mean control arms, why not get aftermarket arms like Thuren's and OEM
bolts (unless someone knows the dimensions so we can get them from mcmaster-carr or something).
My ball joints killed my new tires before I got to replace them. The outsides are worn down past the tread blocks. Guess this means new tires. Maybe Ill just buy a tire / rim combo from someone and be done with it.
Im waiting on Thuren control arms and a new trackbar to fix this one that died. Dunno how I killed it.. these things are built really solid.
Anyhow.. if youve done all the usual suspects Id look into some adjustable shocks and maybe fabbing up some knuckle to axle dampers to tame the side to side DW. The up and down stuff has to be a combo of shocks (damping rate) and tires springing back from a bump.
Id also look into playing with caster, but keep an eye on the trackbar so its not hitting the diff cover.

 

BF goodrich Allterrain T/A are 250 each for the 315/70/17 that i run on the truck right now. Thats a kick in the *****.... so im working on a friend with an H2. He keeps changing his mind on prices....



the control arms will be reinstalled today, then alignment and test drive. If the hopp is gone, horray, if not then arggg... idk idk idk

 

Is it too lateto ask the mechanic to measure the bolts? Im sure the OEMS are expensive

 

i am the mechanic, lol. The blots are ecentric.... the have special washers on the for caster adjustment, and such... its like 40 bucks for the two of the, but oh well. I am still waiting for them to come in, argggg

 

Hm, so they have to be replaced with OEM? How much are they? I will need them also =(
I had one other thought about your problem. I know youre running large tires on those H2 rims and a lot of people do, but are you experiencing wheel hop on bumps due to the added unsprung weight of those tires? When you take the wheels off are they really heavy? I know on bikes unsprung weight can be really critical to traction on bad terrain.
heres what Im referring to.. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Unsprung_weight

 

m going to guess the unspung weight is not affecting the hopp. These tires have been on my truck for a while and have gone to a hole bunch of places with me. I think that it migh have something to do with the steering box, or possibly another wheelbearing issue. Im thinking about borrowing a steering shock from another truck, its rancho blah blah.... but first i have to get these stupid bolts. The guy who was taking care of them went MIA today, so im kind of angry! Who knows, mabe i will go to the truck pull with my friend and relax a bit. Ill try and get video!!

 

allright so much rain the pull got cancelled.

although i replaced my steeringbox, replaced steering shock, alignment, control arm bushings are all put in tonight. ***!!! It still shakes, althouigh it is not near as bad!!!!!!! The new tires will be purchased tomorrow, and monday installed....

Idk what to do about this thing. Its cost some serious money latley

 

Have you set the toe to zero or 1/8" in and adjusted caster to max? These adjustments and a new drivers side tire helped tame my DW.

 

have you tried different combinations of where wheel gets mounted?

like rear wheels in front?

 

toe was set 1/8 inch in, and caster has not been set yet, new tires are going on asap

 

new:
tires
tie rods
sway bar links
track bar
steering box
ball joints
stabalizer
wheel bearings
4x4 u joints
axle seals
pads, and calipers, and rotors
alignment


this thing is still shaking but after the stablalizer it kinda softened. i think like dshifft said its hiding the issue

 

yup, a damper usually hides the underlying problem. in this case someone didnt do an awfully good job designing the front end
Im keeping my eyes open for some rims too. Maybe some 18" ones so I can use less rubber for a 35" wheel.

 

If the hop continues with all the changes you list and your springs are fully seated in good seats and not setting there like a drunk on a bar stool, then pull the front drive shaft off completely and see if the hop goes away. Any slop in the spring seats will allow the hop.

If it does not, take the truck to a real suspension and alignment shop that can spin the tires and wheels on the truck and watch for jounce.

I see you replaced the steering box. Was that with one from a junk yard or a new rebuilt unit? The lower sector shaft that connects to the pitman arm has a really bad design that allows that bearing to wallow out and let the arm flop around and create a hop that can lead to fatal steering box failure - such as a full power steering lock to one side or the other that no one can muscle back to center.

 

Max caster is the key, especially on a lifted truck.