My clutch pedal loses majority to all pressure. To the point where I can't get the truck in or out of gear with it running. Even if I try to pump up the clutch pedal there's no increase in pressure at all. I've checked the clutch master reservoir, it's full. I've looked up under the dash, to see if the master is leaking it's not. I had the clutch replaced about 20k ago with no prior problems. I need to get this fixed fast. Your thoughts?

The Hydro system on a clutch is pretty simple I would think. Pedal to master, Master to clutch line, Clutch line to slave, Slave to slave rod, Slave to clutch fork.

Background of the problem...

I first had the problem on a trip to Montana with my wife. We were stuck at a long traffic light for 3-4mins. and I felt the truck pulling forward with my foot still on the clutch pedal to the floor. I ended up having to turn the truck off, because I couldn't disengage the clutch to get the truck out of gear. After the light turned green and I re-started the truck, the pedal felt good and stiff like it should and I drove the entire way back without an issue. The truck was fine as long as you didn't disengage the clutch for extended periods of time, more than a minute or so. I've been busy with work so I didn't have a whole lot of time to diagnose the problem. I let the truck sit for about 3 weeks and haven't used it until today to tow a buddy's broken down car to his house. Round trip of about 18 miles. I figure as long as I didn't hold the clutch pedal down for too long of a time it should make the trip fine. On the way back to my place I noticed the system lost pressure faster and faster each time I shifted, until I had to turn the truck off and start the truck in 1st gear to limp the truck to a nieghbor's house where it is right now stuck with my 18ft trailer on the back.

 

Sounds like a disk heat-warping.

 

Sounds like clutch slave cylinder is leaking internally. If clutch does not seem to be slipping replace slave cylinder and actuator.

 

The clutch isn't slipping at all. Is it worth getting the HD adjustable assembly from Valair or South bend over factory unit?

 

That's what I'd do...SBC would be my choice. You can't lose anything trying to bleed air out of the system. That's assuming you just got air in the system and it has not failed. I've heard of others getting success at that but it's tough to do I've heard.

 

When it happened to me it would disengage long enough to get in gear then it would release pretty quick. I got the South Bend hydraulic upgrade for around $300.

 

Sure sounds like a bad clutch master cyl to me based on your symptoms and the fact you are apparently not leaking fluid.

 

definatly sounds like slave cyl. or master cyl. for clutch is internaly bypassing. how would replacing the clutch solve the hydro problem?

 

SBC makes a good aftermarket clutch linkage package, but even Peter will tell you it isn't needed for a stock clutch replacement. Give www.mopar4less.com a call and check their price for a new mopar unit. Be sure to ask for internet parts.

 

NOW my clutch came apart and the disk warped and did this....new hydro didnt fix it.....IF you can...try to look up in the vent hole under the tranny bell housing and see if you can see any fiber materal...if you see that.....get a clutch....SBC is my choice.....

 

Thanks for the help. I picked up Valair HD kit for 260.00 shipped 2 day select air. Took about an hour and a half to install, Problem solved.