In campground with bad APPS?
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From: Sask, Canada
In campground with bad APPS?
I think my APPS/TPS is going bad. I'm in a campground in the Canadian Rockies. I have good fuel pressure, no P0216 code, but I do have a P1693. When I go to accelerate, it goes to 10% throttle, but when i push the pedal down further, it still accelerates, but not as much as I'm pushing the pedal, so, I push the pedal down further, to say 30, 40, then 50% all of a sudden it lights and takes off. I have an Edge EZ, and I haven't disconnected that to see if that's the problem, but it's new so I don't think that's the issue.
It started the other day, and was just happening occassionally, but now it happens a bit more often, usually only after the truck warms up. I have had dead pedal before, and it's not the same feeling as that. it still accelerates, just not as hard as the pedal position my foot is giving it should be.
Truck has 60,000 miles on it.
If it is the APPS/TPS, is it hard to change? I only have basic hand tools here with me. I assume it's under/behind that black plastic cover just above the VP44?
Anyone know how much they cost?
Any help would be appreciated. I'm borrowing a computer to type this, and I will check back tomorrow for your responses.
thanks.
It started the other day, and was just happening occassionally, but now it happens a bit more often, usually only after the truck warms up. I have had dead pedal before, and it's not the same feeling as that. it still accelerates, just not as hard as the pedal position my foot is giving it should be.
Truck has 60,000 miles on it.
If it is the APPS/TPS, is it hard to change? I only have basic hand tools here with me. I assume it's under/behind that black plastic cover just above the VP44?
Anyone know how much they cost?
Any help would be appreciated. I'm borrowing a computer to type this, and I will check back tomorrow for your responses.
thanks.
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Joined: Jul 2005
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From: Omaha, AR
There around $400 at dealer and that the only place to get one new. They are really easy to change out. Try to reclabrate it first. And I thought mine was bad once, changed it with dads and I still had the same problem. They don't go bad to much, I would hate to spend that much and then find out it was my IP.
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From: Sask, Canada
I forgot to say i did try reprogramming it already, and it didn't make any difference.
I disconnected the batteries overnight and then reconnected in the am and turned key on - pedal slowly to the floor and back up.
I disconnected the batteries overnight and then reconnected in the am and turned key on - pedal slowly to the floor and back up.
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Joined: Sep 2002
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From: Central VA
P1693 just tells you that there's a code stored in the ECM.
It could be a VP related code, or a APPS related code or something else .....
I changed my toasted VP-44 and had my APPS die a couple of months later.
"Dead Pedal" could be caused by either.
I hate to say it, but a trip to the dealer to have them read the code could be your best (and cheapest) option.
Either way, it's a lot of $$$ to spend on a guess.
It could be a VP related code, or a APPS related code or something else .....
I changed my toasted VP-44 and had my APPS die a couple of months later.
"Dead Pedal" could be caused by either.
I hate to say it, but a trip to the dealer to have them read the code could be your best (and cheapest) option.
Either way, it's a lot of $$$ to spend on a guess.
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From: Sask, Canada
I'm at Mount Kidd RV park in Kananaskis, Alberta, Canada. Got a FLUKE meter and tested the APPS. Starts out at 5V and drops nice and steady to 1.33V at WOT. On the way back up, it runs nice and progressive too. That was when the engine was cool though. Took it for a drive after that, and it ran fine, even when at operating temp. Can't get it to act up anymore.
My Dad is coming in a weeks or so, and he has a scanner. I guess I'll just wait until then, and I'll get him to pick me up an APPS. If that's not the problem and we don't install it, I guess we can return it.
I won't have access to this computer (my BILs) when I get the code though. BIL leaves before my Dad arrives.
The campground has internet access, but BIL has the laptop.
I'll try to get back on once I get the code....somehow....
Another thing I guess I could try is if I can get it to act up, we can hook up the FLUKE again once it acts up.
.................................................. ..................
And, it's not really like dead pdeal, it's more like there's a "dead spot" on the throttle curve.
That's why I was thinking APPS. Maybe I'll run a search using APPS as a keyword, and do some reading.
My Dad is coming in a weeks or so, and he has a scanner. I guess I'll just wait until then, and I'll get him to pick me up an APPS. If that's not the problem and we don't install it, I guess we can return it.
I won't have access to this computer (my BILs) when I get the code though. BIL leaves before my Dad arrives
.The campground has internet access, but BIL has the laptop.
I'll try to get back on once I get the code....somehow....
Another thing I guess I could try is if I can get it to act up, we can hook up the FLUKE again once it acts up.
.................................................. ..................
And, it's not really like dead pdeal, it's more like there's a "dead spot" on the throttle curve.
That's why I was thinking APPS. Maybe I'll run a search using APPS as a keyword, and do some reading.
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From: Whitehorse, cultural hub of the universe..
although your edge is new, disconnect it, and try it again. I realize it is an intermittent problem, as it was with several units that have gone bad in my neck of the woods. If you start getting that dead spot again, just unhook the edge, plug your map sensor back in, and run it. If the dead spot is gone, guess who caused it....
good luck
good luck
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From: Boise, ID
From my post.
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....php?p=1598173
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/....php?p=1598173
I'm making this thread in hopes that it might help someone out that is looking at the option of having to buy a new APPS sensor (I know I looked for every way around it). Just an informational thread.
Symptoms i had
-P0122 code showed up and i tried clearing it a few times
-I had some random surging/dead peddle...mainly when it was cold. It got REALLY bad the last 2 nights
-The torque converter locked and unlocked between the speeds of 45 and 55. (I've actually had this for a while and i thought it was completely non related to the APPS)
I tried the peaddle reset a couple of times and cleared the codes but sure enough it came back again. I was in the process of shopping around for a new sensor when i stumbled across this little gem of a post:
Symptoms i had
-P0122 code showed up and i tried clearing it a few times
-I had some random surging/dead peddle...mainly when it was cold. It got REALLY bad the last 2 nights
-The torque converter locked and unlocked between the speeds of 45 and 55. (I've actually had this for a while and i thought it was completely non related to the APPS)
I tried the peaddle reset a couple of times and cleared the codes but sure enough it came back again. I was in the process of shopping around for a new sensor when i stumbled across this little gem of a post:
Here is how to reset the APPS.
RESETTING THE APPS SENSOR.
(ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR)
2ND GENERATION 24 VALVE TRUCKS ONLY.
LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED
DIGITAL VOLT METER
# 20 TORQUE BIT SOCKET
# 1 PHILLIPS
# 10 MM SOCKET
Proper service and repair procedures are vital to ensure personal safety of those performing the repairs. Standard safety procedures and precautions should be followed at all times to eliminate the personal injury or improper service, which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
Although this material has been prepared with the intent to provide reliable information, no liability is assumed in reliance of this material.
It has come to my attention that a lot of people think by disconnecting & re-connecting the batteries and stepping on the throttle it is going to reset the apps, no, that is not correct. It is impossible to adjust your apps if you do not know where it is supposed to be set at. That is why you need the voltmeter.
This is the procedure I use to re-set the apps.
With the key on, engine off you need to probe the apps wire to see where your voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (power control module) which is located off the passenger side of the firewall.
• You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine,
• You want the orange wire with the dark blue tracer which is pin # 23
• Voltage should read somewhere around 0.5 volts,
• At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference.
*** TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK ***
• The apps sensor is located slightly above and a little to the left of the injection pump.
• Remove the black plastic cover that is located by your injection pump.
The two screws that are holding it are plastic, do not put any downward pressure on them or you will never get them off.
• Un do the 6 - 10 mm headed bolts that hold the bracketry in place.
(DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES)
You will notice the apps is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2 - 20 bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful these screws strip very easily and you only get one shot at them.
• On the apps you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the apps adjustment should be.
• After loosening the screws you can rotate the apps both clockwise and counter clockwise to get the adjustment you need.
• The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin # 23 should match the white tag on your apps, if not adjust accordingly.
RESETTING THE APPS SENSOR.
(ACCELERATOR PEDAL POSITION SENSOR)
2ND GENERATION 24 VALVE TRUCKS ONLY.
LIST OF TOOLS NEEDED
DIGITAL VOLT METER
# 20 TORQUE BIT SOCKET
# 1 PHILLIPS
# 10 MM SOCKET
Proper service and repair procedures are vital to ensure personal safety of those performing the repairs. Standard safety procedures and precautions should be followed at all times to eliminate the personal injury or improper service, which could damage the vehicle or compromise its safety.
Although this material has been prepared with the intent to provide reliable information, no liability is assumed in reliance of this material.
It has come to my attention that a lot of people think by disconnecting & re-connecting the batteries and stepping on the throttle it is going to reset the apps, no, that is not correct. It is impossible to adjust your apps if you do not know where it is supposed to be set at. That is why you need the voltmeter.
This is the procedure I use to re-set the apps.
With the key on, engine off you need to probe the apps wire to see where your voltage is currently set at.
The best location to probe the wire is on the PCM (power control module) which is located off the passenger side of the firewall.
• You want the C1 connector, this is the connector closest to the engine,
• You want the orange wire with the dark blue tracer which is pin # 23
• Voltage should read somewhere around 0.5 volts,
• At this point the voltage reading does not matter, it just has to be accurately written down for later reference.
*** TURN THE IGNITION OFF ON THE TRUCK ***
• The apps sensor is located slightly above and a little to the left of the injection pump.
• Remove the black plastic cover that is located by your injection pump.
The two screws that are holding it are plastic, do not put any downward pressure on them or you will never get them off.
• Un do the 6 - 10 mm headed bolts that hold the bracketry in place.
(DO NOT REMOVE THE CABLES)
You will notice the apps is on the back of the bracketry that you just removed, it is held in place by 2 - 20 bit screws. These screws have a little bit of locktite on them so make sure you have a good socket and gently give a little tap with a hammer before attempting to loosen. Be very careful these screws strip very easily and you only get one shot at them.
• On the apps you will find a white tag that gives you the information on what the apps adjustment should be.
• After loosening the screws you can rotate the apps both clockwise and counter clockwise to get the adjustment you need.
• The reading you took at the beginning of the process on pin # 23 should match the white tag on your apps, if not adjust accordingly.
After this I did the regular battery disconnect and peddle reset and took it for a spin. My code that usually poped right back up after resetting it a few times before didn't rear its ugly head. I started driving along (in cool weather) and it drove perfectly fine. When i got up to speed i realized that my TC wasn't locking and unlocking every 2 seconds. I drove the truck for about 30 or so miles tonight with no drama whatsoever. Looks like i'm back to normal. I just wanted to post this up because i see a lot of people jumping straight from the "peddle reset" to a new APPS and this is the real way to do it.
-Brendan
-Brendan