dozer, I bought truck new, has always had a dragging left caliper but dodge refused to acknowledge, rotors finally cracked around 95,000 miles and I replaced all components , now it is pulling really bad , I drive the truck very seldom mostly to pull fifth wheel, and now 2 years later I can't remember where in the process the drastic pulling started and have changed front and rear brakes twice, hoses only once, starting to think that may be problem,
dodge still has truck to try rear wheel cylinders and master, which I don't think will help, they are supposed to disable abs and eliminate that as a possibility, will go get truck monday and check metal lines and disable abs myself to check.

 

tires are also new and I have had them re-balanced rotated sides and aligned twice to no avail.

 

OK, Lets start again. Someone has carefully inspected front brake lines for damage? With 4ABS front brakes fluid is separated at ABS from the master cyl if I recall. It is possible there is a restriction there. The valving is not very forgiving.
The front wheels need to be measured for offset? They must match.
Wheel mounting surface to ball joints. Measure the amount of hub offset to ball joints. This can be accomplished with a carpenters square. Hold against hub where wheel mounts and measure to ball joints (upper & Lower) The "A" arms must be at same height. This is a crude check for scrub angle. Scrub angle is the difference from where a line through ball joints hits the ground and the center of the tire. A difference of 1/8 inch or more will make for a dramatic pull. Especially if one is positive and the other negative.
The spacers are another crude effort to see if this angle or offset is causing problem. Oh! yes, oversize tires especially taller can affect.
The last thing I can think of is a malformed spindle, knuckle, or caliper mounting assembly. A careful comparsion is needed. This would be something that would not show up in an alignment or the tech might miss.
I have tried to keep it simple.
The dealer had a procedure from several years ago that addressed a issue like this on earlier trucks. The tech rep for your dealership might recall also. That procedure would still work.

 

Next time you bleed the brakes instead of using a vacuum bleeder just bleed the front ones by pumping the pedal. If by some chance air is getting in during the vacuum bleeding using the other method should eliminate it. Test drive soon after bleeding cause if it is a cracked front puck it will just let air back in again. Good luck.