I have developed a very bad pull to the left just in the last few weeks. Front pads are about 30% on the drivers side and about 40% on the passenger. I replaced front pads and rotors last year. Rear pads are good but the drums are just a little under specs. Possible sticking caliper or rear wheel cylinder? Or front end components? I have a new power steering box and steering box support. Last year I installed a new track bar.

Thanks for any suggestions....

Dave

 

Does it pull just when braking? Could be a caliper or brake hose problem on the front, especially since the left pads are more worn than the right side. I would replace the front calipers and hoses just to be safe.

 

Bill it pulls only when braking. We are on the same page with this....I will get into the brakes this week and start replacing some components. Thanks for the suggestions.

 

I was told by a local tire shop that there was a dodge recall spacer used on certain year dodges to control a break pull to one side? Any truth to this???? Thanks....

Dave

 

Yes , there is truth to that , people have reported finding a 1/4" spacer behind one wheel, check all 4 wheels to see if you have one , it should be located on the side opposite to the pull direction , on the front, but they commonly stick to the rim and get moved during tire rotations.

Myself and several other members have had alot of trouble solving a pull in the brakes , I replaced everything but the brake booster in my truck , and within weeks the pull was back , so i replaced the calipers again, and it never went away, so i lived with it until i could afford for someone else to look at it, it turned out that both of the new calipers (they were the third set in 6 months) were bad right out of the box, Next time i have troubles , I am going to try to find some 4 or 6 piston NEW aftermarket calipers...

 

I never had any brake issues until two weeks ago. And I have owned my truck for two years. And I have no spacers anywhere on my truck.

Had to get some new tires on my equipment trailer today so I went to my friends Big O Tire shop in my area. I decided to have them to the brakes as well. I went to NAPA and picked up new rear drums and rear Chevy wheel cylinders. My rear brake pads where in good shape. For the front I picked up new calipers, rubber brake lines and metallic pads. So hopefully my brakes will be new and improved.

Dave

 

Brakes are done and all is good. As soon as it left the shop I was hooked up to my 12K equipment trailer fully loaded. BIG DIFFERENCE in the brakes....!!!! Thanks for the help guys...

Dave

 

Guys need some advice. When I had the rear Chevy wheel cylinders on I also replace the rear drums. Both left and right where to far out to be turned. Big O sais rear shoes where good so I kept them. Now for the bad. Today leaving work towing my CAT skid steer. 9500 LBS Gross weight. Start down a 8% grade and hit the breaks and start to get shaken out of my seat.. Shake would come and go. I took truck back to Big O and they said both NEW rear drums from NAPA are warped. But pads look good. Said I need to turn NEW rear drums. I said WHAT?? They are only 3 days old? Should of Big O installed new rear drum shoes? I called NAPA and they are going to replace the drums. I think BIG O should install new pads for free. Any suggestions or thought?

Thanks.....

Dave

 

I have seen the shoes get a wierd wear on them. Can cause a vibration. I fought one for 2 days trying to figure it out , it would come and go with heat, and only when I replaced the shoes did the vibration go away. I don't think they should have to put new shoes on for free since you didn't oay for them in the first place., but I would ask them if you paid full price for the new shoes, would they split the labor with you? Make sure you would still get the warranty as well even though they discount the labor.

 

Thanks for the reply VZ. I will go to NAPA tomorrow and exchange out the drums for new ones. Napa was cool about replacing the 3 day old warped drums. What bums me out is I had the new rear brake shoes in BIG O's Shop and they said I did not need them.... OH well...... No biggie....

Dave

 

Just a side note...whenever I buy new rotors or drums, I always have them turned/trued up before install - plus I always match them up with new shoes/pads. They surely can be out-of-round or warped from new manufacture, and I figure the all-new parts have the best chance of successful install. Never had any problem that way. Just glad the manufacturing tolerances are better now, so the new brake shoes don't need to be arc'ed to match like the old days! Hope you get your brakes in order, you sure need them right hauling regular heavy loads like that, good luck!! :-)

 

Can someone tell me what steps are involved with removing the front rotors on my 94? The front rotors are worn to far to turn so I am going to replace them my self. Thanks...

Dave

 

i just did front rotors today...it is an all day job( with beer of course and running in and out of the house to get the phone)...you need to take off the axle nut 1 11/16 ...then i used a simple cheap puller to get the hub off...after that i had to torch all the studs to drive them out in order to separate the rotor from the hub....install in reverse

 

Thanks for the info Mr T....!!!

Dave

 

Something I have noticed after having my brakes done is now when I get in my truck the brake pedal is rock hard and takes a few seconds after the truck starts to go back to normal. What is causing the hard pedal on start ups?

Thanks...

Dave