jyates

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You'll need to have a DRB II or DRB III scanner to read the Dodge ABS code. These are DC (dealer) scanners but are also available as service tools. They cost $5K or so and very few independent shops have them.

There are some other scanners available that read standard ABS codes. However, not all codes used by Dodge are standard ABS codes so the info read from the Dodge ABS controller by one of these scanners can and often is misleading.

Best way to find out what is going on, considering checks that you have done already, is to hook a DRB scanner up. Dealers around here charge about $60 bucks to scan the ABS but you get the correct information quickly.

vzdude

Well, I use a Snap On scanner daily with no problems. I have also used in the past a Midtronics ( Matco Determinator ) and Vetronics scanners, and they all work well. Like all computers, garbage in = garbage out. A good user will know if the info is deemed reliable or not. I have nothing against the dealer. I worked for one for over 5 years. Just hate it when people think they HAVE to go to the dealer. The most misleading part is saying some DODGE codes are not standard. The system is designed by either Bendix or Kelsey Hayes. They then sell the info to Dodge and others. Wonder why a lot of the 2nd gen trucks have the same calipers and pads as a GM truck of the same year? huh.......... same brake company designed the system. Anyway, the info and means of accessing the codes is available at most reputable repair facilities. Just so you know.

EverydayDiesel

thats why i was trying to avoid the dealer. they want 90$ just to hook it up to the computer and tell me the codes. every bit of 2 minutes of 'work'

jyates

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Nothing intended to be misleading in my post.

The 4 wheel ABS system for the 01 Dodge Ram in question is a Kelsey-Hayes unit that is proprietary to Chrysler/Dodge. This ABS unit uses the propritary Chrysler CCD vehicle interface bus for communications and control. Programming of the unit is specific for the Chrysler/Dodge application.

As for non standard codes, thats not unusual, even within the same ABS manufacturer a vehicle manufacturer may implement non standard codes for their specific use.

If you look at a list of codes from differents ABS systems you can see examples of non standard code implementations. For example a code 25 on a Kelsey-Hayes EBC4 = Left Front wheel speed sensor open, while a code 25 on a Nippondenso 2L = Right rear wheel speed sensor open circuit or excessive input voltage. On a Teves II (some GM) ABS units a code 25 = Right Front outlet valve circuit. On a Toyoto traction control ABS system code 25 has a different meaning depending on whether the vehicle is a Supra or a Camary/Avalon

While the same model Kelsey-Hayes ABS unit is used by GM in some pickups and in some Chrysler/Dodge products, these units are physically different and differ in operation, programming and diagnostic functions. The vehicle bus interfaces are different and proprietary for each manufacturer (Chrysler/Dodge and GM.)

There are also some differences in the Kelsey-Hayes ABS internal hydraulic pressure controls between GM and Dodge application.

Vehicle manufacturers are not required to disclose their proprietary control and diagnostic information so they don't.

As a result the all purpose ABS diagnostic scanners don't have all the capability needed to fully evaluate ABS functionality...

I'm familar with the Snap On ABS trouble shooter. While Snap On makes good products, there are limits on ABS testing that can be done with the Snap On unit.

The DRB scanner is designed specifically to work with the Chrysler/Dodge ABS. It displays the code/problem in english, you dont need to guess what the code means.

You don't need to evaluate wheather "the info is deemed reliable or not."

EverydayDiesel

well i was going to go to just brakes and have them read the codes but i guess ill go to the dealership and give em 90 bucks for 5 minutes of work

vzdude

The fact of the matter is still this......it does not HAVE to go to the dealer. While all of your points are valid, the aftermarket scanner companies are not going to put out information that is incorrect. They simply would not support that vehicle's diagnostics for whatever system. I have no affilliation with any company that makes or sells scanners, nor do I have anything against the dealer. I just hate people implying that a certain problem HAS to go to the dealer to be repaired. I think we agree on most every point but that.

jyates

[QUOTE=vzdude;1552862]

"They simply would not support that vehicle's diagnostics for whatever system."

"I just hate people implying that a certain problem HAS to go to the dealer to be repaired. "
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When a Chrysler/Dodge ABS diagnostic function is not supported by the after market scanners you mention and you have a problem that defies common diagnostic efforts, then you have to go either to the dealer or to a shop
that has a DRB scanner.

OR you can through expensive parts at the problem, ABS controller $500 or so, ABS Motor $600 or so, ABS hydraulic unit $600 or so. And after the selected SWAG parts are installed you still may need to go to the dealer to have the ABS controller programmed..

At one time Dodge only supplied a single unprogrammed version of the ABS controller that had to be programmed with vehicle specfic information on installation. Now you can often get the pre-programmed ABS controller by speciifying the vehicle VIN mumber. However, I know in some recent cases the pre-programmed ABS controller was not available for some specifice VIN numbers and it was necessary to install the unprogramed ABS controller and have the dealer program it for the specific vehicles.

By the way, the DRB III scanners are avalable from Miller tools and some higher end shops already have them.


EverydayDiesel,

After you know for sure wheather or not your problem is internal to the ABS control unit you can often find a warrantied used ABS unit for $150 to $300. You will need to specify the two numbers located on top of ABS controller to get a correct part programmed for your specific truck. I usually get the whole ABS unit and a warranty statement in writting. It take about a hour or so for an experenced mech to replace the whole unit.

You may be lucky and have only am external sensor or cable problem problem.
Have it scanned and find out.

vzdude

And you can have that done at most any reputable repair shop with decent equipment. It does not HAVE to be done at the dealer.

EverydayDiesel

Today the lights went off. I hit a bump and the lights come back on. This problem is very strange...

vzdude

Get a code and I can help! Without that, its like the blind leading the blind. lol

Talk to a shop and ask them if they can read abs codes. How much? If they hook up and can't read, will they charge you? Get a code, and we'll get 'er fixed.

renacolt

"All good advice if you have 4 wheel ABS. The next thing to replace is the stoplight switch. They run about $13.00 at Auto Zone"

So if you don't have 4 wheel ABS those other problems won't solve it? What does the stop light switch do? I am having the same problem with my 95. It would come on when my trailer wiring would trip it, I would change the fuses and it would go out, except this time. It didn't go out, but I do know I have bad ball joints, could that be it?

fschiola

Welcome to the site! I think the statement you have in quotes in your post is mine, I was referring to the advice that was given in the prior few posts that referred to 4 wheel ABS. The way to diagnose and the solutions are the same for both types minus the front sensors for 4 wheel ABS, making those systems harder to diagnose. To answer part of your question the stoplight switch has 3 circuits in it. One for the cruise control, one for the ABS and one of course for the stoplight function. It's possible for the circuit for the ABS to be bad when all of the others are good. You can test the switch, but by the time you unhook it and do those tests you could have a replacement installed and adjusted, BTW, the switches are adjustable and come with instructions. As to the other part of your question, does the light come on now with out the trailer being hooked up? And the ball joints would have no effect if you have 2 wheel ABS, as far as the ABS system is concerned.

EverydayDiesel

I got the codes scanned today at the dealership and this is what they came up with

L ft
R ft
Rear sensor
Int Left Ft
Foundation Brake
Vin Mismatch


after he cleared the codes, they all went away except for the 2 sensors on the front left and right. Im stumpped on this one because I have cleaned those sensors (but that was about 3k miles ago but the light was still on)

He synced the VIN mismatch and fixed the speedometer since I put 285 tires on the truck

heres the stuff that I have done

I have replaced
1. the sensor on the rear end in the center
2. cleaned each abs wheel sensor on the front
3. replaced all the pads front and rear
4. replaced the rotors on the front (they were cracked)
5. reset the battery

vzdude

Sounds like the sensor circuits are bad. 99% of the time, it is the sensor itself. I replace a ton of them at work. Looks like the LF may work part of the time, but.....I'd replace both the front sensors and go from there. Especially if the codes came right back. They are kaput.

EverydayDiesel

How hard are they to replace? When I was cleaning them I was going to take them out and clean them but I didnt see where you could disconnect them, it looks like one piece. Do you have the procedure for replacing those?