I recently tried to tackle my ball joints with no luck freeing the driver side hub. I tried using my OTC hub puller while it was snug and beating on the bolt with a sledge hammer. I stoped because the puller was bending and I was getting no where. I tried the power streering trick but I stoped because the bearing would not budge and the control arm holder was starting to bend. I put everything back to gether and tried 4x4 the last night while driving and it would not engage, I tried at a stoplight and when I tried to take off the axle was binded and would not move. What could be the problem, wheel bearing or the axle slippeped from the differential and it is not lined up right? The truck runs fine in two wheel drive. The 4x4 worked before I started this. Any other way to remove the hub? PLease no more powersteering trick!

 

Don't know if it was available on your model of truck, but is the 4wd actuation manual or electric? I am guessing that if it is electric that with all that work you knocked a wire off. Is it possible that the 4wd is now engaged with no light indication and that is the reason why you have the binding?

 

My 4 wheel drive engages manually and it binds ehen engaged.

 

2nd gen is vacuum activated

 

Did you get the right side apart? I'm asking this because when you remove the right hand axle shaft, the sliding collar in the disconnect housing can fall down, and get trapped when you slide the shaft back in.

I'm also thinking you damaged the left side wheel bearing by attempting to remove the hub with a puller. They aren't meant to be removed with a puller, and on all the ones I have done I have left the shaft nut tight while breaking the hub loose, so the bearing will stay together.

The power steering method is really the only way to remove these (damage free) if they are rusted in, and I haven't had it fail. Where it is failing for you is in what you are pushing against. You say it was bending your control arm holder, I guess you mean the rather thin piece of steel where your control arm bolts to the axle. What you need to do is push from a loose hub bolt to the end yoke of the axle housing (the C-shaped thick casting that the ball joints attach to.) Leave the shaft attached to the hub and the nut tight. If you aren't changing the hub/bearing there is no reason to remove the shaft from it at all.
Hope this helps.

 

It sure is vaccum acctuated, the issue had something to do with me removing the hub. I never got it off but I did hit the center of the hub puller pretty hard with a sledge hammer.

 

mite have jammed something causin it to stay engauged

 

The right side hub was not removed. How can I tell if I ruined my hub it runs fine in 2wd. And what is the easyest was to get sockets from a hub bolt to the c opening? Hubs are a real pain in the neck!

 

Once you get the hub removed, you will be able to spin it and feel for roughness or play.

You should be able to bridge the gap between the loose bolt head and the end yoke with an impact socket and small extension, or just a heavy bolt.

 

Earlier I placed my truck in 4x4 and instead of going foward I went in reverse. What ever it was broke loose with no damage and I was able to engage 4x4 foward. Wend down the road and it worked fine, no noises or binding. Could it be that something was out of place, and should I still feel concerned about a new bearing? If the bearing is still good can I do any prevenative maintenance to keep it from going out? I hope to tackle the dang ball joints soon. Its been a real nighmare and I am only on the driverside.

 

if i were you id just replace the bearing cause its goin to go out so just do it now and to get it off split the bearing in half with a puller and use an air hammer and rotate between the 4 corners with the chisel bit and it will come off in about 20-30 mins of hammering

 

Well folks, one side done. The Power steering trick does work it just takes time. Lessons learned for the other side though. If the hub has never been off before, do not us a hub puller. The power steering trick takes time and patience, but it does work; just rotate between the four bolts and use the yoke to press against; it will come out eventually. PB Blaster is a must. Ball jonts came out super easy with a expensive ball joint press and a LONG cheater pipe. Clean the hub and outer with sand paper or a dremel and neverseze before putting back in. I pumped the bearing full of grease through the 4 wheel ABS sensor hole. The hub went back in super easy and hopefully it will do the same next time it comes out. It took about an hour and a half to take out the hub and that was my hardest part! Lets see how the other side comes out!

 

Hey laurel what part of jersey are you from?

 

McGuire AFB or Wrightstown.

 

Oh ok I am in Mays Landing