- as a LAST resort (or to keep your truck in service for the time frame req'd to troubleshoot) you could get a manual battery cut-out switch; It would be a PITA to keep having to open the hood to toggle the switch every time you wanted to go somewhere, and you would lose your constant memory in the radio, but - it would also keep your batteries from draining.

 

Sorry, not what I meant. I just meant that the seatbelt draw is normal, and we need to see if that is the only draw you are seeing and verify that it DOES go away after 30 - 60 mins. If, however you have a 500 milliamp draw that sticks around all the time, that WILL kill your batteries.

I was looking around on Alldata today for your draw problem, and I found a bulletin for your year stating that there have been problems with glovebox lamps staying on on 98 trucks. Never seen it, can't be too common, but it's worth a look.

 

This may or may not help.. but I had a 88 bonnivelle where if I wouldnt drive it for 2days or so the battery would die. As it turns out it was something odd in the door went bad and had a constant but small power draw. I cant remember what it was though something with the power locks or windows I think. ill try to look it up in my records.

 

Another Update - Still working on it....

May have to take it in because it HAS to be fixed before winter sets in.

Still has a draw - checked the glovebox light, checked the hood light - no luck.
Pulling the Ignition Off Draw (IOD) fuse #12 seems to make it go away. Im wondering now if there is something wrong with the new CD deck I put in...

If I get my hands on the previous owner...

 

I just finished going through this yesterday. My alternator failed just enough to discharge at idle but make 14v when the revs were above 1500.
Interestingly, my half-failed alternator let to a nuisance torque convertor erratic unlock/relock problem. It seems the truck is sensitive to dirty or unstable power.
Isolate your batteries. Charge and then load test each. If they are good, you are likely into an alternator. Alternator should make 14+ at idle.
Hopefully, it's just a battery.

 

Interesting Matt...

BOTH batteries are new...Group 31's 1130 cranking amps each - both load tested good.

Alternator has been load tested - the guy tested it not 1, not 2, but 3 times.

I will have to check voltage after the grids finish cycling (this is one of the things I have yet to do). Thanks.

 

Try disconnecting the heavy wire from the alternator to check for drain. A leaky diode would do this and still charge.

 

Will try that Bill.

 

Evil, couple of thoughts after only lightly skimming through 4 pages - are there any add-on's to the fuse panel? Any new wires poking around that Dodge probably didn't install the first time? It could very well be your new CD.

Did you do like HID said earlier using the light bulb technique to look for current drain? A multi-meter can do the same thing. Once its hooked up start pulling fuses one by one to see when the light goes out. To do this right, you need to ensure everything is turned off, and the hood and doors closed to ensure the interior lights and under hood light are out. It helps to have someone helping to keep track of things.

Have you done any trailer light wiring etc lately that might have disrupted the status-quo?

The best thing I can say is to follow the KISS process first, before you start Easter-egging parts etc to fix the problem.

 

No add ons to the fuse panel. Couple of addons by the previous owner....unplugged at the moment. Cut out the trailer brake controller. Problem still exists.

I will get to the bottom of it one way or another. You guys are great for sticking by this.

 

This is some of the best entertainment since the concrete bed liner or the CTD Gremlin! I can't wait until you figure it out! I just wish I was closer. I'd love pullin & cuttin wires.

 

Entertainment at my expense....nice. Get a hobby...

I too wish you were closer...

 

Ok so eliminate the start circuit. On the drivers side battery there is a cable that runs from the power box to the battery. Disconnect this one and then check the batteries for drain. If it still has it the problems is in the starter system or intake heater system, if not it is in the truck wiring. You can do the same with the power cable to the intake heaters, pull the cable from the relay that operates them.

 

HID, will have to look at it when I can...I go to work in the dark and by the time I get home its already getting dark. I sure could use a shop

 

Did you come to a conclusion on this because I have the same problem and have not been able to solve it. 2.5 days sitting truck won't start cause of dead batteries. 30k on the truck, batteries load tested good.