96 12V wont start after parts replacement
Hi all, I hope someone can give me ideas on what to do.
First, the truck has been mostly sitting still for the last nine months, maybe ran it for a few times less than 10 minutes each time. It would start hard, and was hard to stay running, but I figured it was the fuel filter and/or strainer. The truck has just under 200k miles, and the strainer has never been cleaned or replaced. The filter has been in for a LONG time, like maybe close to three years. I know, it was stupid of me, just never seemed to have the time.
About a month ago I got a leak in the rear brake line, and when I crawled under to look at the leaking brake, I saw the front axle U-joint had rusted and fell apart. Well, the list of repairs was getting long, so I decided to fix the truck before winter got here. So I pulled the truck up in front of the garage, let it sit there and idle for a long time, 20-30 minutes and it ran perfectly, idled like it's supposed too, when I tapped the pedal it'd ramp up immediately like always.
So I replaced the oil and filter, replaced the fuel strainer (even though the original was perfectly clean) and the fuel filter (I have a Prime-Loc installed), replaced the thermostat with a higher temperature unit, and I figured while I was doing all this other stuff, I'd finally install the fuel plate that I bought years ago and never found time to install. It's a Jannetty Racing fuel plate rated at 330 hp. I also replaced the axle U-joint and am in the process of repairing the brake line. When I removed the AFC cover, I gently "pushed" the fuel line to the pump without removing the banjo bolt. I was VERY careful not to kink or pinch the line.
Everything went well until I started putting the cover back on the AFC after installing the new plate, I was snugging up the last bolt and I felt the threads give. So I just snugged it up as tight as I could without fear of stripping the threads completely.
I filled the fuel filter about half full of fuel and installed it. Connected all of the wire harness (that I could remember, maybe I forgot something??). It was late last night when it was all done, so I jumped in and turned the key and cranked. Nothing. Cranked some more. Still nothing. I wasn't worried, I figured there was just air in the line from the strainer replacement. So I pushed the primer bulb 30-40 times and try to start it again. I'd crank for about 10 seconds then wait to let the starter cool, and kept doing this until the batteries died! Every once in a while it'd fire a little, but it'd never run.
I put the batteries on the charger over night, went out today and tried again. Today, it won't even try to fire, it just cranks. I pushed the primer again about 30-40 times on two separate times, but nothing.
I looked at some other similar threads, and I already checked the fuel shutdown solenoid, it seems to be working fine, up with the key on and down with the key off. So, I can assume the blue fusible link is okay and the fuel shutdown relay are working correctly, right?
I did a quick check with the on-board diagnostics, and only got a "12" code, meaning that the battery had been disconnected. Not a lot of help there...
Any ideas what I missed? Anything I can check? The only thing that I havent re-installed is the windshield wiper reservoir ( I removed it so I could install new headlight bulbs too) and connected it back to the harness, surely that has nothing to do with it does it?? (Yes, I know, stop calling you Shirley...)
Thanks in advance, any ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
First, the truck has been mostly sitting still for the last nine months, maybe ran it for a few times less than 10 minutes each time. It would start hard, and was hard to stay running, but I figured it was the fuel filter and/or strainer. The truck has just under 200k miles, and the strainer has never been cleaned or replaced. The filter has been in for a LONG time, like maybe close to three years. I know, it was stupid of me, just never seemed to have the time.
About a month ago I got a leak in the rear brake line, and when I crawled under to look at the leaking brake, I saw the front axle U-joint had rusted and fell apart. Well, the list of repairs was getting long, so I decided to fix the truck before winter got here. So I pulled the truck up in front of the garage, let it sit there and idle for a long time, 20-30 minutes and it ran perfectly, idled like it's supposed too, when I tapped the pedal it'd ramp up immediately like always.
So I replaced the oil and filter, replaced the fuel strainer (even though the original was perfectly clean) and the fuel filter (I have a Prime-Loc installed), replaced the thermostat with a higher temperature unit, and I figured while I was doing all this other stuff, I'd finally install the fuel plate that I bought years ago and never found time to install. It's a Jannetty Racing fuel plate rated at 330 hp. I also replaced the axle U-joint and am in the process of repairing the brake line. When I removed the AFC cover, I gently "pushed" the fuel line to the pump without removing the banjo bolt. I was VERY careful not to kink or pinch the line.
Everything went well until I started putting the cover back on the AFC after installing the new plate, I was snugging up the last bolt and I felt the threads give. So I just snugged it up as tight as I could without fear of stripping the threads completely.
I filled the fuel filter about half full of fuel and installed it. Connected all of the wire harness (that I could remember, maybe I forgot something??). It was late last night when it was all done, so I jumped in and turned the key and cranked. Nothing. Cranked some more. Still nothing. I wasn't worried, I figured there was just air in the line from the strainer replacement. So I pushed the primer bulb 30-40 times and try to start it again. I'd crank for about 10 seconds then wait to let the starter cool, and kept doing this until the batteries died! Every once in a while it'd fire a little, but it'd never run.
I put the batteries on the charger over night, went out today and tried again. Today, it won't even try to fire, it just cranks. I pushed the primer again about 30-40 times on two separate times, but nothing.
I looked at some other similar threads, and I already checked the fuel shutdown solenoid, it seems to be working fine, up with the key on and down with the key off. So, I can assume the blue fusible link is okay and the fuel shutdown relay are working correctly, right?
I did a quick check with the on-board diagnostics, and only got a "12" code, meaning that the battery had been disconnected. Not a lot of help there...
Any ideas what I missed? Anything I can check? The only thing that I havent re-installed is the windshield wiper reservoir ( I removed it so I could install new headlight bulbs too) and connected it back to the harness, surely that has nothing to do with it does it?? (Yes, I know, stop calling you Shirley...)
Thanks in advance, any ideas or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
I will give that a try. I've got this problem posted on another site and that's the only suggestion I have there too. As soon as it gets light enough to see what I'm doing I will go out and try bleeding the air out at the injectors.
I will report back as soon as I can.
Thanks!!
I will report back as soon as I can.
Thanks!!
depending upon how empty the fuel system is....30-40 times may not be enough to pressurize system back up.
keep pumping primer bulb until you hear the fuel pressure let off valve release. until you hear pressure let off valve work, system is not full yet.
unless you cracked line to replace injector. bleeding air out of line should not be necessary.
on board fault codes will do you zip... 12v fuel injection system are completely mechanical with exception of fuel cut-off selenoid. some will eliminate selenoid and use a cable.
keep pumping primer bulb until you hear the fuel pressure let off valve release. until you hear pressure let off valve work, system is not full yet.
unless you cracked line to replace injector. bleeding air out of line should not be necessary.
on board fault codes will do you zip... 12v fuel injection system are completely mechanical with exception of fuel cut-off selenoid. some will eliminate selenoid and use a cable.
Well, here's where I'm at. I went out and pumped that primer button till my arm hurt. I remember the last few times that I did that, I could feel it gradually get harder and harder to push, but this time, there was no resistance at all. So I pulled the fuel filter off, and there was about the same amount of fuel in it as when I put it on, that is, about half full, which made me concerned. So I removed the fuel strainer again, and there was almost no fuel in it, which really bothered me. So I went topside and began pushing on the primer button again, and it would just barely make a squirt of fuel, I mean, maybe a drop or two. I pushed that button as fast as I could, and it just didn't make any difference. So my first thought was the transfer pump was bad, but I just really couldn't see how it would go from running just fine a few days ago to being shot now. So I started looking around and I think I found the problem. Following the fuel line back to the tank, about at the beginning of the bed, the fuel line is just flaking rust and is all wet, it's not dripping fuel, but it's just got a glossy wet look all over. I figure I've got a bunch of little pinholes that's just keeping the pump from pulling fuel, and the last few days of banging around on the truck was enough to knock the rust off that was sealing everything that let it run a few days ago.
So, I guess I'm looking at replacing the fuel line, which is going to be a real pain because the tank is completely full, and it's freezing outside, and I'm doing this all by myself.
Are there any other options? How hard is it to replace the fuel lines? Can I just get some generic line at a parts store and bend it myself, or do I need to get prebent lines from the dealer?
Nuts. This was about the last thing I needed right now...
So, I guess I'm looking at replacing the fuel line, which is going to be a real pain because the tank is completely full, and it's freezing outside, and I'm doing this all by myself.
Are there any other options? How hard is it to replace the fuel lines? Can I just get some generic line at a parts store and bend it myself, or do I need to get prebent lines from the dealer?
Nuts. This was about the last thing I needed right now...
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Thanks for the info and advice. I think I'll get a section of hose and a new lift pump and see what happens. Since this is no longer an emergency, we can consider this thread closed.
I was doing some reading on the subject, and was considering getting a FASS or AIRDOG, but they're just out of my price range for now. Maybe someday I can consider upgrading, but for now I'll have to make do with stock replacement parts.
Thanks again for all the help. I do appreciate it.
I was doing some reading on the subject, and was considering getting a FASS or AIRDOG, but they're just out of my price range for now. Maybe someday I can consider upgrading, but for now I'll have to make do with stock replacement parts.
Thanks again for all the help. I do appreciate it.
stick with your stock 12v mechanical lift pump. it's one of the most reliable pumps ever made. no reason to go FASS unless you've got another reason besides reliability.
good luck on your fuel hose replacement. before you start get some type of hose pinchoff tool or improvise with a small visegrip.
good luck on your fuel hose replacement. before you start get some type of hose pinchoff tool or improvise with a small visegrip.
I have similar issues, & have been looking at fuel line-about the only thing advance & autozone has is fuel line (lo pressure) & fuel injection line. People think I'm speaking chinese when I ask for diesel rated fuel hose. Is it different because of pressure rating, or because of deterioration ability of the line??? please help!


