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12V solenoid question

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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 07:18 AM
  #1  
AlpineRAM's Avatar
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From: Austria Europe
12V solenoid question

A customer's truck has some problems with the solenoid- it won't come up while cranking, if you push it up by hand it will hold. I get voltage to the correct terminals on the solenoid.
My question is- I get 14.5 Ohms on the holding coil but only 0.2 ohms on the lifting coil- Both to ground. Does this sound correct or is the solenoid shot?
(REason is that the solenoid alone is about 750 US$ over here- and shipping a cheaper one like the 197.90 US$ from Fostertruck takes some time so I'd really like to know whether it's shot or not)

Thanks in advance

AlpineRAM
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 08:20 AM
  #2  
Don M's Avatar
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From: In the Shop
My guess is that the solenoid is bad.

I would check ebay to see what you can find there. I have seen the newest solenoids sell for a few hundred US.

Don~
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 09:58 AM
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From: Montana
I think the solenoid is ok. The lift up coil draws more amps and should have way less resistance. Run a jumper from the battery to the lift up coil and see what happens.
I've never run into a solenoid that was bad where it wasn't visably damaged looking on the outside from overheating.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 10:28 AM
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From: outside Raleigh, NC
A customer's truck has some problems with the solenoid- it won't come up while cranking, if you push it up by hand it will hold.

Classic bad relay symptoms - check the relay on the firewall - probalbly smoked. If you can get one across the pond LarryB has them. If not, they are a 70A relay so they are not necessarily easy to find an equivalent to.

Piers had the solenoid for US$150 about a month ago - but I would bet it is the relay.

Like Infidel said, the solenoids only fail after the starter contacts crap out and cause the pullup side to stay on and burn out the windings. LarryB also has the better replacement started contacts.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:26 PM
  #5  
AlpineRAM's Avatar
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From: Austria Europe
Thanks for the replies!

Got the solenoid ticking again with a new relay. Saved my customer a lot of $$$ or to be correct €€€s
Another problem I had to solve was that he only had air on the windshield regardless of the position of the selector, no cruise control and no 4WD- found out that some maniac had cut the vacuum lines in several places...

Again, thanks

AlpineRAM
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:30 PM
  #6  
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From: London, OH
Just be aware that the relay MAY only be a temporary solution. My truck would eat Fuel Shutoff Relays every day or so...

If that happens, check the fuse in the blue power cable coming off the driver's side battery.
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:44 PM
  #7  
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From: Austria Europe
Thanks for the tip- have checked both fuses already while trying to follow the circuits going to the solenoid. (Nearest 12V rep. manual is at BavarianRAMs house- about 400kms from me)
For a momentary "solution" I put in a 45A relay until I can buy a 70A, I am shure it will be rather shortlived in this application. Still thinking about a relay with a spark arrestor (let's have a look whether I can get one of them).

AlpineRAM
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:48 PM
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infidel's Avatar
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From: Montana
12 valve wiring diagram
https://www.dieseltruckresource.com/...re_diagram.jpg
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Old Dec 16, 2004 | 02:57 PM
  #9  
AlpineRAM's Avatar
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From: Austria Europe
Thanks!

That's really gonna help me out when looking for some of the other problems with that truck.
The cut vacuum lines were only an example of what they did to it...
Seems that they had the mentality- I don't understand what it does so let's cut it and see what happens- truck still running so let's leave it that way.

AlpineRAM
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