I have an '01 3500 with 180K no performance mods, replaced transfer pump with stock part about 30K back. The problem progressed rather rapidly. A couple of days ago I went to start it and it had to turnover a couple of times before it fired off. Yesterday, I had to bleed it all the way to the injectors before getting all the air out. Now I can bleed it all the way out and the only way it will fire is with a shot of ethyr. I checked the overload valve on the IP it wasn't stuck open. Until today I didn't notice any signs of a fuel leak, now it looks like the valdez oil slick under the hood. I'm thinking of changing the supply/return lines if I can find some good fuel hose. Any thoughts on where else I might look? Thanks for your help in advance.

Steve

 

Tried shooting a little air in the tank to see if I could locate any leaks. Only suspicious thing I could see when I wiggled the lines and saw a few drops around the bottom of the rubber sleeve on the supply line. That could have accumulated earlier when I removed the filter housing.

Steve

 

Probably a hairline crack in one of the lines.

I would replace the supply line that was weeping first.

You are sure your LP is putting out pressure, right?

 

Guess I should have also asked you, once she fires up, how long can you have it shut off before it looses prime again?

 

Sorry, I forgot to mention the LP shows 12-13psi @ idle, and it loses prime in less than 5 minutes.
Are the stock lines steel all the way or is it some kind of hybrid.

Steve

 

They are rubber up by the LP/FF.

There is also rubber and a quick connect back by the tank.

Also, double check your banjo bolts and washers at the LP/FF, perhaps a bolt has backed off.

 

Fittings are tight. That's the first thing I looked at today. It looks like the fuel lines are gonna be my starting point. I'm gonna go at it by raising the bed since there's no 5th wheel to work around. I'll let ya'll know how it turns out. Thanks for the help.

Steve

 

I should be able to isolate any leak by pinching the supply line closed right in front of the LP. I would assume this can be done as long as I stay away from the area where the rubber is spliced on the steel line, correct?

Steve

 

i would suspect the problem to be either in the supply line or the return line. check all the rubber lines for dry rot. have seen the let air in but not leak

 

"I'm gonna go at it by raising the bed...." Um yeah, that's all good right up to the point when I realized the pressure/return/brakeline/wiring runs down between the frame and the tank and there's not enough room to maneuver. I didn't want to pop the clips out from the back side and leave the brake line flopping around because there's no way to reattach it to the frame. At least I didn't see one. No biggie. Time to start puttin' it all back. Then hope like HELL!!!!! it's gonna work! I'd say wish me luck, but the only luck I have is bad. Later on!

Steve

 

How good does it start if you give it a shot of ether without cracking the injector lines?

 

It would turn over 3 or 4 times and fire off. Then cough and fart for a second or two and start idling. A couple of times it didn't want to go right away, but it would get right before turning on the highway.

But I finally got 'er buttoned up this morning with new rubber fuel lines. Used a little air to help push fuel up to the engine, bled the air out and it cranked right up. I cranked it a couple more times after letting it sit a few minutes, on the third try I was going for the test drive and it had to turn over a couple times before it fired off. Got back from the test drive, let it sit a few minutes and again it turned over a couple of times before firing off.

After letting 'er sit for 20 minutes, I just tried it again, same thing, turn over a couple times and fire. Might be a self inflicted problem there, didn't get something tight enough maybe. I'm headed out for a while today, maybe I won't have to use any ethyr. Thanks.

Steve

 

Ive heard they can develop a problem with the draw straw in the tank. I guess they start sucking air from the top of the straw. You could check this by filling it up all the way I suppose and drive it enough to get all the air out but not use enough to drop the level below the problem spot. Just my 2 cents

 

Check along the frame rails. They tend to rot out. Kinda pricey if you buy new ones from dealer. Dont use regular fuel line from autozone. You have to go to a place that makes Hydrolic lines and buy some rubber hose there that will stand up to Suction

 

Napa might have diesel rated fuel lines.