BearKiller

What are the pros and cons of clear glass fuel sediment bowls ??

Like this :

https://www.simpsonsupplies.co.uk/DI...371R_1830.html


New LUCAS ones in top notch shape, not old dry-gasket rusty ones.



Will a water-seperator like this :

https://www.simpsonsupplies.co.uk/DI..._UNF_1721.html




: do the same job, plus remove water; or, would it be advantageous to have both ??



Thanks.

Jim Lane

On my 6.2 I used a John Deere filter separator that I got from a friend but because the Chevy had 2 fuel tanks and a switchover valve I was always sucking air because of a bad fuel sock in the tank and I was always fighting trapped air at the top of the filter jar, I finally put the filter on a quick disconnect mount so I could release it and invert the bowl to let the air out.

So finally I took out my free filter system and installed Racor filter separator, it was much better.

Jim

http://www.adiesel.com/store/RAC-500FG2.html


http://www.adiesel.com/racor-water-separators.html

BearKiller

The one I have on hand has a pitcock valve up top for bleeding.

Those Racor units are NICE, but out of a poor-boy's reach.

Has anyone else had any experiences, good or bad, with the sediment-bowls ??

My idea is it would be better for any bigger gook to land in the free-to-empty jar, instead of finding a home in a twelve-dollar filter.

12valve@heart

I haven't tried those but I put a cheap Fram clear plastic in-line filter in the line coming out of each tank before the switching valve on the idea that it would catch the big chunks before they get to the factory filter. They're a pain to change but I've been happy with how they've worked. Your idea sounds similar but easier to change.

Jim Lane

How about something like this,
I used to have a 200 gallon diesel tank where I used to work and I used a filter something like this one as a prefilter before the Primary and Secondary filters. It was on the output side of a hand pump.

You would need to bush the 3/4" ports down to 3/8" for your fuel lines but there should not be any flow problems.

You could mount this on the frame rail next to the tank; just mount it high enough to protect it from any possible impact from road debris.

Jim

http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w..._910810_910810

BearKiller

I already have the little plastic inline filters, and they have saved me untold dollars by preventing me having to replace the big filter; but, due to their small "reservoir capacity", for want of a better term, when they decide to plug up, they will do it all of a sudden; nevertheless, they sure are quicker, easier, and much cheaper to replace, out on the side of the highway.






Actually, I had looked at those some time back and had forgotten about them; thanks for refreshing my memory.

After some of the issues I have been having, and upon giving those units a closer look, there are five things that stand out as real pluses about those particular units.

1. The housing is see-thru, thus one can trouble-shoot at a glance.

2. Note the large "well", below the filter-cartridge, for all the globs of gook to settle in, before plugging the actual filter, thus making the cartridge last much longer.

3. They have a drain-valve.

4. You don't have to cut away a metal casing to see what has been passing through the filter.

5. Due to the design, one can remove the outer housing, dump out the gook, rinse the housing, and go on about their business, without having spent a cent.


Thanks.

BearKiller

So far, so good.

I mounted the GoldenRod, high and dry, inside of one of my tool compartments, where it is safe from road debris and criminal minds.

I have ran a couple tanks through it and all is working well.

One big plus to these is the element remains screwed to the head, when the bowl is removed; thus, the bowl can be removed, rinsed out, and replaced, without disturbing the element.