6.5 GM Diesel
#1
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6.5 GM Diesel
It aint a Cummins but I figured I`d ask the DTR, sooo here goes. Ran across a 96 K2500 Suburban with a 6.5, the clock shows about 225k on it. Now I KNOW it`s no Cummins but any one know of the long term durability of these things? Is the engine ready for the scrap yard at this kind of mileage? I`m pretty sure they use a 4L80E trans and they are pretty reliable from what I understand, and I`ve already read up on the PMD thingy. To be honest all I know about it is what I was able to gather by doing a quick walkaround this evening, body is straight, no rust/dents 4x4 and it`s asking number is $3500.neg. What says the collective diesel genius of the DTR, do I bother even calling on it and taking a closer look? And NO it is NOT replacing my 93, the S.O. would like a bit more people carrying capacity, and SHE spotted it this afternoon and asked me to go look at it. She`s kinda excited to drive a clanky (and 6.5`s ARE) diesel . It would be replacing her (rapidly deteriorating) Chevy Equinox ...lesson learned on that one, darn POS). I figured if it is mechanicly as nice as the body I could pick it up, unload the Equinox and hopefully take some of that extra $$$ and do whatever "maintenance" it might need, and be in a 8(? i think) passenger vehicle as opposed to a tight 5 now (kinda sux having to take 2 vehicles somewhere if we have one extra person to ferry around).
#2
I can't speak too much on the life expectancy on the 6.5L but I'm pretty sure that AM General used the 6.2 and then the 6.5 in the HUMVEE since the HUMVEE program began so that has to speak for somewhat for the relability
#3
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The 6.5 isn't a "bad" engine overall. I have seen some high milers out there, with no problems, really depends how they are driven.
A friend of mine has one at 280k miles in a 1 ton single wheel crewcab, with a service box on it. The injector pump has been replaced a couple times, and the tranny ( 4l80e) finally gave up reverse, and is being rebuilt, but its a good truck overall. 2000 model, and I think he bought it used 4 years ago for less than 6k. it is a 4x4 as well.
6.5 engines had problems with the heads cracking between the valves, and the blocks cracking in the webbing around the mains. But, if not driven hard and overheated, neither of those was a problem. They just don't make enough power to hurt themselves.
fuel economy is generally pretty good, or at least as good as anything out there.
I would take the guy some cash, less than asking for sure, and see what happens
A friend of mine has one at 280k miles in a 1 ton single wheel crewcab, with a service box on it. The injector pump has been replaced a couple times, and the tranny ( 4l80e) finally gave up reverse, and is being rebuilt, but its a good truck overall. 2000 model, and I think he bought it used 4 years ago for less than 6k. it is a 4x4 as well.
6.5 engines had problems with the heads cracking between the valves, and the blocks cracking in the webbing around the mains. But, if not driven hard and overheated, neither of those was a problem. They just don't make enough power to hurt themselves.
fuel economy is generally pretty good, or at least as good as anything out there.
I would take the guy some cash, less than asking for sure, and see what happens
#4
Registered User
I had one of these "6.5" with that many miles I would`nt buy it but that`s me, has the injectors been changed, they usually go around 150k to 170k, mine went through 3 high pressure fuel pumps, at app. $1200 bucks a pop that was enough for me. Trany stood up okay, but to get any power out of them you would have to spend some pretty good bucks, I think its Heath that makes power stuff for them. good luck
#5
Adminstrator-ess
Noooo, don't do it. Those trucks are electrical nightmares, you will have a very steep learning curve as you deal with the inevitable issues.
I was very relieved when I sold my '95 K2500 Suburban after less than a year of ownership. I'll never make THAT mistake again!
I was very relieved when I sold my '95 K2500 Suburban after less than a year of ownership. I'll never make THAT mistake again!
#6
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Thread Starter
Well,I figure for $3500, considering how clean n nice shape its in there is prob some type of deal killer issue with it, heck I dont even know if it runs ,lol. Electrical stuff dont bother me, nothing I cant firgure out with a schematic and voltmeter BUT the $$components$$ are what concern me. I`m not looking to gat any real power out of it (no REALLY I`m not ). IF I get it the only bombs planned would be mainly airlow , ehx, intake stuff. I know they are NOT good power makers. I didnt even get the phon # off the FS sign. I`ll have the wife get it today and perhaps I`ll call after work today. I`ll update for anyone who`s interested in my story
#7
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6.5
i have a 1999 gmc k2500 suburban with the 6.5 and with 275k on the odometer i can tell you it has been a good truck, i have had one lift pump replaced under warranty and it now needs the pmd replaced- an easy fix
oh yeah the transfer case grenaded about 4 months ago, but not too bad considering the milage, i have had more failures per mile with my dodge and would not hessitate to buy another diesel suburban if the right one came along. i wish dodge made somthing like the suburban, big, comfortable, 4wd, diesel, leather interior- good luck with your choice
i would recomen taking it to a mechanic for a good inspection before deciding
oh yeah the transfer case grenaded about 4 months ago, but not too bad considering the milage, i have had more failures per mile with my dodge and would not hessitate to buy another diesel suburban if the right one came along. i wish dodge made somthing like the suburban, big, comfortable, 4wd, diesel, leather interior- good luck with your choice
i would recomen taking it to a mechanic for a good inspection before deciding
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#8
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They are hand grenades with the pin pulled even in stock form (broken cranks, blown head gaskets). I would not modify it to add power. Just put the later model thermostat and water pump setup on it, move the PMD off the injection pump, and drive it.
I am good with a schematic, too. I learned to hate that truck. My worst issue turned out to be a flaky 5v supply in the PCM, that took forever to diagnose because it was intermittent. Half the sensors would quit working and the truck would go into limp mode, then you'd start it 5 minutes later and it would be fine.
I am good with a schematic, too. I learned to hate that truck. My worst issue turned out to be a flaky 5v supply in the PCM, that took forever to diagnose because it was intermittent. Half the sensors would quit working and the truck would go into limp mode, then you'd start it 5 minutes later and it would be fine.
#9
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Thread Starter
I was talking to a co-worker today, he was a GM tech for 20 some-odd years, he said pretty much what all of you have been saying, inj pumps,injectors,headgaskets,OD`s in the trans,etc etc. Funny thing he ALSO said he`d buy it in a heartbeat but then again he can work on the thing with his eyes shut . I dunno what I want to do, on one hand it is super clean and all, tons of room, runs on the "proper" fuel, but on the other hand I`m not fixin for a project...have enough of those already (see sig ). Ima gonna havta hash it out with the "boss" and see just how seriously SHE is interested in thing `cause I sure as heck aint committing to potential $$$ AND TIME outlay (sometimes it really sux being and auto mechanic ).
#10
My buddy had one of those 6.5s, before he got his CTD. It wasn’t a bad engine; it just didn’t make a lot of power and kept overheating before and after he turned it up. If you can get the truck for the right price and intend to leave it stock it might work out for you. I mean I guess if you can get it cheap enough and it last you a few years you could probably swap in a gasser somehow as a replacement engine, if need be, assuming the body really is that good.
#11
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Thread Starter
My buddy had one of those 6.5s, before he got his CTD. It wasn’t a bad engine; it just didn’t make a lot of power and kept overheating before and after he turned it up. If you can get the truck for the right price and intend to leave it stock it might work out for you. I mean I guess if you can get it cheap enough and it last you a few years you could probably swap in a gasser somehow as a replacement engine, if need be, assuming the body really is that good.
#12
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My dad had a 6.5 2500 4x4 drove it for 100k+, then gave it to my bro. He drove it for 200k+. Yes, several IPs replaced, a tranny and a hydroboost brake pump. Other than that the truck ran good getting about 20mpg. If it has the mechanical pump I believe you'll be better off vs. the electrical pump like we had.
#13
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had 1 400k miles then it cracked the heads ,I bought a new motor with 50K on it and its been running for 5 years now only problems have been rats ate some wires and glow plug relays the PMD needs to be moved off the IP and the oil pres. switch should be hooked to a relay so it dont burn up .as long as you dont tow with it its a great grocery getter and change the oil every 4k and check the harmonic balancer for cracked rubber or it will bust a crank.
#14
Chapter President
The problem with all the injector pump replacements was the PMD crapping out and instead of any shop just fixing that, they replaced the whole pump. Why not? $$$$$$$ for them. Change the PMD and some silver paint and its "rebuilt" for 1/2 price..
I wouldn't be scared of it as long as you treat it right. Make sure all the glow plugs and relays are in good order, good fuel, clean filters, clean oil and it should be fine. If you aren't using it to tow, I don't think it should be a problem.
I wouldn't be scared of it as long as you treat it right. Make sure all the glow plugs and relays are in good order, good fuel, clean filters, clean oil and it should be fine. If you aren't using it to tow, I don't think it should be a problem.
#15
Registered User
Also, when buying a 6.5 gm product, take the purple wire from the oil pressure sending unit in the rear of the valley, which supplies power to the lift pump, and use it as a trigger wire instead. Install a proper relay to control the power to the LP, as the OPS is not rated for the amp draw of the lift pump.
While you're at it, put your park, low beam, and high beam lights all on separate relays under the hood, and do away with the yearly headlight switch meltdown.
And thats all I've got to say about that.....
While you're at it, put your park, low beam, and high beam lights all on separate relays under the hood, and do away with the yearly headlight switch meltdown.
And thats all I've got to say about that.....