hello to everyone out there,i am a newbie here and this is my first post. i have done tons and tons of research on my upcoming purchase on a diesel pickup and have definately concluded that its gonna be a cummins. not just because they are hella cool but have proven themselves over the years in ram pickups and big rigs as being the best. what i can't decide is if i want a 12 or a 24 valve. i work at a GM dealer so all i see is durasmacks, and u couldn't give me one! i know all about the KDP problem and the "53" blocks. i know i want one between '94 and '02 and one with a manual transmission. what i am basically wanting to know is what would be considered the best ultimate choice with the price not being an issue. also maybe some pros and cons on both. i'm not wanting to start a war or anything, just looking for answers from those who know tons more about the subject than i do. so please help me in my search for a "real" diesel, and not a weasely V-8 diesel (unless it's a 2-stroke detroit-- they kick ***)

 

Welcome to the site! I believe that a thread on this site a while ago came to the consensus that the best 24 valve truck so far is the 2001.5. The ".5" is because halfway through the model year DC started putting on rear disc brakes. I do like the 24 valve engine as, for me, they are easier to add horsepower/torque. There are a myriad of "plug and play" accessories out there that can really enhance your driving experience.

Good luck in your search.

DeWain

 

I think the consensus on which is the best so far of the Dodge diesels would probably be the 1998.5 with a 12V and the rear doors.

Someone will correct me if I am wrong, but I think that is the last of the 12 valves (easier to BOMB, reliable mechanical controls, less electronics, no lift pump) and the first of the extended cabs with rear doors.

They are hard to find and usually bring good money.

BTW, If I did it over again, it would be a '02 with the 6 speed.

 

I agree 100%. 1998 12v all the way. But dont get me wrong i love my 99 CTD but if i could find a 98 12v with 100,000 miles on it or less i would sell my truck in a heartbeat an buy that one. Anybody will tell you that the 12v are easier an cheaper to BOMB because of the mechanical stuff an not all the computerized stuff

 

cheeper to bomb yes. But to an extent. Easier, Id have to take a 24, Like they say its unplug this plug this in and away you go. Im sure if you watch the show Trucks on Spike youll see something of the sort. The 12vs are mechanical, No computer. Im sure you know all this.


If ur not gonna bomb it. Who cares. Some people say that the 24s have inj pump issues. and its true to an extent. But if you take into account how many diesels dodge sold. how few * in relation to ammount sold* came back. Its not too big. My 99 has the 53 block and no problems. and its got an early vp44 and no problems. And i dont have any guages for fuel either. My lift pump could be dead. But she runs like a rapped ape too. BTW its a stock truck

 

Why the '02 6-speed?

As a proud owner this exact model, I'm curious as to what you prefer on the '02? Brakes? No hood insulation? No wheel liners? hehe..

I love my truck and bought it because I figured that the last year of the model would be the most refined (and therefore, reliable and durable). As such, I have the latest and greatest LP, VP, etc..

As for 12V vs 24v---

-- If you are going after mega-hp, the 12V is usually the way to go. The majority of the top HP guys are running the P7100 pump, whether on a 12V or a converted 24V. The VP44 and (thus far) the CP3 pumps just won't move the quantity of fuel needed for mega-hp!
That said, there are 24V trucks in the 800hp club (I think Jetpilot is 24V). Nathan Wright (Idaho CTD) is over 700hp with a 24V on just diesel.

-- the 12V would probably a little more reliable, once the KDP is addressed.

-- the 24V head flows more air, thus a little more capability

-- the 24V pump is electronic, allowing a higher level of overall fueling for a given streetability. A 24V should be able to run more fueling on the street.

-- a 24V is (paradoxically) louder in most cases, though Cummins claimed it would be quieter. My '02 is louder than any 12V I've heard! (clatter, not exhaust)

-- the 12V is cheaper to bomb up to about 300hp. A plate and GSK is all it takes.

-- A 24V is cheaper to bomb between 350 and 500hp. Just a box, turbo, injectors, and some driveline reinforcement (clutch).

-- A 12V can be "tuned" using delivery valves, plates, plate location, AFC setting (star wheel) etc. A 24V can only be "tuned" by hacking the ECM or hanging on a box, and then your stuck with whatever tune is in the box. There's not much you can do to a VP44 compared to a P-pump.

Overall, I think the 24V is a better design: centralized injectors, more valves, higher injection pressures, electronic controls.

My mild 24V has been great. Hopefully, I'll be able to move farther away from mild and closer to wild....

jlh

 

I wish I had the rear disc brakes and I'm really tired of the stock mushy transmission. Which is easily cured with a $2000-$5000 trans upgrade.

I plan for some bombs down the road, but they will be limited to mild injectors and maybe a small box. So I personally prefer the 24V.

If your truck was charcoal grey, I'd try to buy it off of you.

 

If you are on a limited budget, I would go with the 12 valve. You can have more fun with a cheeper price. The 99 I had was great, but it was expensive to maintain, and play with. But it sure did get the looks. As far as your comment about the Duramax. Please spell it correctly, if I gave you mine, which is a show winner by the way, you would drive it all around with a smile.

 

the only mods that i plan on doing to the truck would be mechanical one's such as exhaust, intake, injectors. the reason being is that with as much money as trucks cost that i want it to last a long time with a minimal amount of problems, it would be cool to see the odometer read 500,000 miles! and also because from my experience that when boxes and tuners are added to any computer controlled vehicle, be it gas or diesel, it seems to induce more than needed wear and tear on things. and not to mention voiding of factory warranty. thanks a million for the input so far, i am taking it all in and i just wanted to add a few things to the equation! thanks again, and keep the ideas coming.

 

The biggest problem I have seen is when you add a box like TST or Edge Drag comp, piercing the pump wire is usually a bad thing because when the pump goes, you pay the bill. Now if its out of warranty, then bomb away, and enjoy.

 

GottaHaveDiesel,
I bought a 1998.5 12 valve quad cab shortbed 4x4. Since I own one, I may be a little partial, but I have to say "I hope I never have to buy another truck again I love it." I bought it new and now 6 years later I have 157,000 mi on it. I have had my problems with it 5th gear going out 2x's, but it has never left me stranded, not once. I plan to put as many miles on it as I can. They are hard to find though since the 1998.5 is the only twelve valve with an extended cab, not a lot of them on the road. In fact I've only seen a couple since I've owned my truck and I'm always looking. That's my 2cents on the matter. good luck. If you get one and need someone to work on it,private message me and I'll give you his number