I am a little worried about clogging fuel lines running B70 on my 160K mile old 01. Is there anything I should do to keep all the "crap" moving through the fuel lines to at least get to the fuel filter? I was thinking about perhaps "easing" into it, say starting with B10, then B20, etc... ? Any suggestions?

 

I heard that unless you have special fuel lines you shouldn't use much over B20. B70 might be a bit much.

 

I've heard the same thing. B20 is supposedly the cut off for unmodified vehicles. I'm sure there are some exceptions.

 

Since I'm properly valved I can just assume- and you know what assumptions are:
The fuel lines in the tank and up to the fuel filter on the 24V have some components that won't stand bio. I'd say that you should at least replace the fuel and the return line with new ones (rubber hose will work fine if it's made safe for bio), esp. since the stock lines may already be in bad shape.
I don't know whether the 12V fuel pump and the IP are bio-ready. I'd think Cummins can help you on that.

AlpineRAM

Burning lots of bio in my 24V

 

The cummins engine loves biodiesel!! Wait till you hear how quiet and feel how smooth the engine is on bio!!

The 95's and later are good to go with bio. Bosch has does testing on this, and while they (or Diamler Chrysler) will not go out on a limb and say it is safe, they have said that they have not had any problems with fuel lines and or pump/fuel system componets while running bio. Your 01 will be just fine from a fuel line/pump stand point. The older vehicles had a problem with the bio eating the rubber fuel lines.

Since 1995 the fuel lines have been "bio compatable". My 12 valve loves it. Have changed the fuel lines BEFORE I started running bio because it was time (92,000). That was when I just bought the truck. I am now at 116,000 and while that is no endurance test, I can only tell you what I have read.

I make my own bio and have done my homework. Properly made bio is actually BETTER for your fuel system! It has higher lubrication qualities than low sulfer diesel, runs cleaner, and the exhaust smells better.

Just make sure your bio meets ASTM standard. I have read horror stories of guys getting bad bio and the high water content (as with even reg diesel) will tear up the pump. The problem is if you get bio (or diesel) with high moisture content, when the truck is not running, that moisture in the fuel is corroding your pump and fuel system components. It's only a matter of time before the pump is toasted, but like I said that will happen with wet diesel as well.

I would suggest you start out at b-20 for a tank or two, then go to say b-50 for a tank, then change your fuel filter. Then run b-whatever, but make sure you have a spare filter with you. The problem is that bio is an excellent cleaner/solvent. It will loosen up all the crud in your tank and fuel system. Diesel has what's called ashphaltines in it (spelling?). This is normal. This is the dark stuff you see in your fuel filter when you change it. The bio will loosen up all the built up crap and send it to your filter. Just watch for a drop in performance and this is your first sign of a clogging filter. The pump on your truck is fragile, the increased lubricity from bio will help, but starvation from a clogged filter will kill your pump.

Long term, the bio will do a heck of a job cleaning the fuel system, right down to the injectors. I have read many a statement on the bio websites " I have never seen an injector (or a pump) with that many miles looking that good".

You know you can buy just b-100 and do your own mixing. 10 gallons of diesel with 2 gallons of bio in it is b-20 etc. You can tell a marked difference in how it runs with just b-20. I think b-50 is an excellent combination, and anything more than that is a concern in cold weather. It gells at a higher temp thank reg. diesel.

Try it, you will be happy!. Just make sure it is quality fuel, and watch your fuel filters for the first 3 or 4 tanks of the stuff. When I started using it, I did notice after about 4000 miles that things were a little sluggish. I changed the filter, and all was well. I have not had any problems with it at all. I love the way my truck sounds. It is just as quiet if as the newer fords and chevies while idling at the light.

Here are a few links to let you do your homework. Hope this helps, sorry about the book, Kevin

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb....51&f=415106403

http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/6/ubb.x?a=cfrm&s=447609751

http://www.veggieavenger.com/avengerboard/

http://www.veggieavenger.com/

http://journeytoforever.org/

(some of them a corny, but still has some pretty good info)

 

Ooopsie, sorry messed up on the build date. Didn't read you have an 01.

I 'm burning bio in my 98.5. I am running a holley blue fuel pump and have no problems with the higher viscosity of 100% bio down to 0C or 32F- if it gets lower than that I add about 10-20% winter diesel.
I've got about 190 000 kms on mostly biodiesel. As long as the quality of the bio is good it's an excellent fuel.

AlpineRAM

 

NJ, I've been running bio since 2001. Great stuff, and over 100k miles using it without any related problems, in 3 vehicles. I would suggest a few tanks of b20, one of b50, and then after your first tank of b70 change the filter or if your regular filter change interval comes first do that.. Most likely you will have 0 issues with clogging, this is more of a myth and precaution than anything.

Biodiesel degrades natural rubber. Most vehicles since 1996 or so have been fitted with synthetic hoses. In a worst case scenario, your hoses will start to swell and eventually collapse or leak, but this will not be overnight, and is typically only seen when people run b100. For what it's worth, I ran b100 exclusively in my 2002 TDI Jetta for 35K miles. Not a drop of dino diesel. No leaks, no issues. Fuel hose is cheap, I wouldn't sweat it. If you do upgrade your hoses, get Viton.

Enjoy burning the bean! You probably won't notice much of a running difference until you get up to b20 or so. Once you get above b50, you will notice a slight power decrease, accompanied by a MUCH MUCH smoother almost electric engine. This is due to biodiesel's slightly less BTU's per gallon. You may lose 1-2 mpg at b70, but you certainly will be doing your engine, our country's foreign oil dependence, american farmers, and all of our air a favor