not sure if this is the right place to post this but i have a few questions. i'm new to both dodge and diesels. i need a diesel truck to be a daily driver and pull a truck on a trailer. i heard that the dodge cummins turbo diesel was the best on the market. it has to be a used truck b/c my budget is around $18k. i really don't know what to look for in a used diesel. a couple things i would like to know are what should i expect to get in my price range? what years should i look for? are all the cummins diesels the same? how do i tell if it has been properly maintained? how many miles should i stay under? are the auto trannys any good or should i get a stick? other than that, i'm looking for a 4x4 3/4 or 1ton dodge pickup. extended cab with a short bed would be nice. thanks alot for any help
mark

 

Check out the classifieds here for trucks that are for sale. Then do a search for anything that you have questions about. Welcome to DTR, the best forum for Dodge Diesel's.

 

Mark---------the Cummings Diesel is the best engine for Fuel Economy while pulling or just cruising. Years that you should look for are probably between 1999 to 2002 Modles. These models will have anything from a 5 speed to a 6speed manual and the auto. Auto's are great for daily driving with moderate towing-----the manuals are best for everyday heavy towing. 6speed manuals in the High-Output models 2001-2002 are good transmissions. Plus most of them came with a 3.55 final gear ratio that is exceptional in the MPG department. Look for any signs of worn belts, oil leaking from head. Look under the truck for abuse/leaking seals on transmissions. There is a oil/catch can located on the front of the engine that is designed to catch the over/blowby oil in the top of the engine that is caused by pressures inside the engine rising due to RPM and partially boost.
** All engines are not the same------Look at the Name Plate located on the left side of the engine (Driver Side). This will let you know what the HP level of the engine is and this HP will indicate the TQ Level. All of these engines are of the Louder class due to the lack of Common Rail Injection. But these are proven Engines and are extremely tough and durable. If you find something that you like Post it on the boards and ask questions about it! There are allot of wise Cummings owners on here and I'm sure that they will help you out! **Also ------ it is always a good idea to get a carfax record of the truck that you are buying, and Maintenance Records are a plus. I know that some people like myself like to do the maintenance on there trucks but receipts of oil purchases and filter purchases are good.

 

what hp level should i look for? im going to look around at alot of them before i buy one. future plans include performance mods to the motor. is the '99-'02 ctd easily made to put out more power? which year do you prefer out of the 4? you said to look for the 6spd manuals from the '02-'03.
the motor is my main concern. i want to learn more about diesels and get alot of power out of it. what does it mean if there is oil/no oil in that catch can? thanks for your help

 

the cummins is a great pulling machine, but the duramax is not far behind if any, might want to price a used one, good mileage and ride to bout

 

You came to the right place The cummins will suit your needs well, and you should be able to get a nice truck for 18k. If I were you; I would look for a nice clean later year 12 valve 5 speed truck. The 12 valves came in the 94-98.4 Dodge trucks and was available with either a 5 speed or auto, and have mechanical lift, and injection pumps. The 12 valve cummins is quite possibly the best engine ever put in any pickup. There are MANY with over 200k(im close), and still a lot even around the 400k-500k mile mark,and a few with a million miles on them. So dpending on if you want to spend the full 18k dollars, or have some left; I would look for a nice clean 5 speed 96-98 12 valve. The 96-98 12 valve 5 speeds had the biggest 12v pump(most power stock), and still got great mileage as long as your not always running them hard. The auto will be fine, but if you are pulling much; you will be much happier with the stick shift probably. The 24 valves(98.5-2002) are still great engine's, but the injection pump's and lift pumps are very vulnerable to going out, and cost about $1200-1600 to replace. The lift pumps are around $100 or so if i remember right. As for mileage; If i were you I would look for one with around 100k on it. Thats just getting broken in. Check for oil leaks, and just look under the truck, and make sure it is clean and dry underneath. Check the body out, and if you could find one without a goosneck ball that hasnt been pulled much, it would be best. Just drive it and make sure the clutch, and/or transmission are tight, and that the steering feels good,and the motor sounds, and runs good. If you are looking for an extended cab shortbed, you may be forced to go with a 24 valve because only a few of the 98 12 valves came out with a shortbed, and extended cab. An extended cab longbed is easy to find, but not a shortbed. You may get lucky though. Like I said; the 24v is a great motor, but its fuel injection system just needs to be monitored(fuel pressure gauge). Other than that; its a lot the same as the 12 valve reliability-wise. You could find a very nice 2000-2002 24v for the money you are looking to spend, but factor in buying a new injection pump if you buy one. When you drive one; run it hard through all the gears, and if it pop's, or stumbles then more than likley the pump is going out, or the lift pump is dead which causes the injection pump to die. Good luck finding one, and hope this helps a little

Eric

 

Oil in the catch can is only a problem if it is not removed and starts to leak on the Fan which will cause oil to be all over the Frame/Lower Motor/Almost everything!! Not a problem tho--------sorry that I did not explain more in detail first time.
Motor's are all the same in retro-spect-------turbos and fuel systems have been for the most part the deciding factor in HP and TQ.
You will find the 255hp/505tq engine in the 2001-2002 6-speed models to be the best choice. BUT these are going to be teh most expensive!!!
If you are wanting to drag race stop light to stop light then go for the auto. If you want to tow the gates off of HELL then get the 6sp---1st gear just let off of teh clutch and the truck will make 12,000 pounds of crap move like nothing
Power mods are the real question---------To what extent are you looking to go? The older 2nd Gen Engines are making up-ward 1,000hp 1,000 tq HEAVILY MODDED!!!????? More Fuel, More Boost, ====== POWER

 

Its not far behind if you like to turn 2800rpm's + all day where the cummins is loafing along at 1600-1800rpm doing the same job with better fuel mileage .

Eric

 

Easy Guys!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Lets stay on track with this guys original post

 

did these motors come in the 1500's too? does anyone know what axles came in the 4x4 1500's and 2500's? back to the motors, i'm not going to go too crazy with it. towing off the gates of hell sounds like fun though. i think i'm going to start looking for a '96-'98 5spd. i can live with a long bed though. are all these motors the same? i'm guessing this is 1st gen. thanks for helping me out so much.. i didn't expect that.

 

These motors were only available in the 3/4 and 1 ton trucks. First Gen was from '89 to '93, Second Gen 12V was from '94 to '98 and Second Gen 24V was from '98.5 to '02. Somebody correct me on the years between 1st Gen and 12V if I'm wrong. When I traded in my last truck for this one I thought that the long bed was going to be more of a problem than it is. I just back into parking spaces more now than I did before.

 

get a 96-98 12v 5sp

 

sounds good to me but just wondering, why do you prefer the 12v over the 24v? thanks alot

 

The 94-2002 are considered 2nd generations. The 89-93 are the 1st generations. Only reason for preferring the 12 valves is because of the mechanical, lift and injection pumps, they are much more reliable, and its very rare you see one fail. The ease of mods to the 12 valve is a little better than the 24 valve because its cheaper, and you get more bang for the buck. There is no other downfall to a 24 valve tht i can think of other than the injection system. No 1500's were diesels. The 5 speed 2500's either had Dana 70's or Dana 80's in the rear(pretty sure all 2500 auto's had Dana 70's), and all the 4wd's had Dana 60's in the front. All 3500's(dually's) auto and stick had Dana 80's in the rear, and the 60's up front also. Either 3:55 or 4:10 axle ratio's, and the rear end was offered in limited slip or open. You can look under the hood right behind the latch when you raise the hood up to see what axle/ratio the truck has, color scheme, etc. Good luck

Eric

 

There is a 12v Mechanical and a 24v electronic. Big differance. I prefer mechanical, But regardless, There is one block you dont want. Its a #53 Block. Do a search here for that reason.