I'm looking at buying a 2nd Gen. 4x4 Ram diesel 2500. I've got about $8000 to work with. I know it's going to have quite a bit of miles on it to be around this price. I'm new to this diesel stuff so what should I look for when buying one. I need an ext. cab, long or short bed, manual or auto, I don't care. So let me know what I should keep an eye out for, such as when I test drive it and crawling around under it.

 

A second gen can either be a 12V ('94 to early '98) or 24V (late '98 to '02) and those two things have very different things to look out for.

On a 12V, your main concerns are with the truck, not the engine. Check the track bar and all the front end pieces. Most used Dodges will need to have the front end rebuilt-- tie rods, BJs, etc. The auto trannies are OK, but if the previous owner turned the 12V up a bit, the tranny is probably near its end. Oh, and don't forget the "killer dowel pin" known to happen to CTDs as late as 2001! Most common on 12V trucks, though..

On a 24V, you're biggest concern is the fuel system-- the lift pump and injection pump. These are the biggest failure modes for the VP44 trucks. Killer dowel pin or KDP also affects some early 24V trucks. Again, with a Dodge 4x4 assume most of the front end will need to be rebuilt.

The auto trannies on all the trucks seem to hold up OK of the engine hasn't been hotrodded and they've been maintained. Otherwise, their lives can be short. The manual transmissions are pretty stout, though the 5-speeds have a rep for losing 5th gear once you get a lot of miles on them. The 6-speeds are super beefy, and while failures are quite rare, they have occurred.

Some model year trucks had airbag clocksprings that were recalled.

For more Dodge info and TSB listings, check out www.dodgeram.org


Justin

 

Do a search on this topic, it's been covered in great detail here....especially "VP44" and lift pumps, as well as KDP.

I would completely stay away from the 47RE automatic in the second gen trucks. When they work they drive great, smooth even flow of power. However When (not if) they fail it's around $3500 to replace.

Check into parts that normally wear out, these trucks are expen$$$ive to maintain. Example of brake rotors being over $100 EACH sets the tone to my point. Be certain you have around 20% of the viechle's purchase price set aside for maintaince and repairs in the first year, and I would steer clear of trucks that have been modified, have a rebuilt title, multiple owners, etc. Search around, drive several (manual & automatics) and avoid buying the first truck you see.

Good luck an welcome to DTR!

 

Isn't the 47RE tranny the only auto for these trucks or what? I know there is a 5 speed manual too. Could you explain this - "killer dowel pin"?

 

The 47RE is the only auto for our trucks (at least for the 2nd gens as far as I know). The 5spd is the NV4500 and the 6spd is called the NV5600.

The killer dowel pin is an alignment pin that can manage to work its way out of its hole and fall into the timing gears and either fall through harmlessly or destroy stuff. Mileage doesn't matter, some people have had them fall out really early and others have never had them fall out. But tabbing the KDP is one of the first things you should do if you get a truck that is affected by the KDP issue. The pins rarely fall out, but then again we each rarely buy a truck, so its not worth the risk of letting it fall out. Most of the time when they do fall out they cause damage, though some have been lucky enough to have the pin fall through and cause absolutely no damage.

 

I bought the 95 auto in my sig for $7500 two years ago.(140,000) Mint shape except for some wonderful chrysler peeling paint, not too bad. Deals are out there you just have to look.

 

Well I test drove a '99 24V it had 192,000 miles on it. Strong truck. I've drove diesel trucks before but never hammered on it. Everything works and he was going to take $8700. The truck pulled to the right bad and it was stiff and jerky going down the highway. I know it's a straight axle 4x4 so I guess I should test drive a few more before jumping on a truck. The brakes were hard as a rock bearly any pedal went down, is that common? I thought maybe the rear brakes were too tight or something. Would this truck have the 47RE? it is an automatic tranny. How would I know if it has the 47RE? Also on the back side of the T-case there was a lot of oil build up what's up with that?

 

If it's a '99 with an automatic, then it's the 47RE.

On the steering, it may just need an alignment, but you can probably assume you'll need some front-end parts. Would the brakes grab and hold, or was the pedal just hard and you didn't get much braking force?

As for the oil on the back of the T-case, it's probably a leaking output seal on the T-case.

 

make sure the truck is not a 53 block. do a search on here for it. this could cost you as much as you gave for the truck later on!

 

Are we forgetting about the 47RH?? I thought the early 94-95 models had the rh?

Essentially, it's the same trans, just with all hydraulic regulation, and no electronic controls-- right?

 

Yeah sorry if thats wrong, I didn't even look at the last letter, just saw 47R and immediately thought thats the one.

I'm sure you are right though I don't know much about the tranny's in these trucks.

 

i do I know if it has a 53 block?

 

...from another thread,

"The lower passenger side where the block curves in.
53 is on the lower front on the drivers side, kind of hard to see."

or try this,

http://www.stamey.info/Truck/Cummins53BlockFAQ.htm

 

Well I'll look for that when I test drive it again this evening. Also about the brakes having a hard pedal feel. Is that because of the hydroboost brake system or what. They grab fine and stop the truck good but just has a hard feel to them. What other engine things should I look out for.

 

YEs, the pedal is firm because of hydroboost. I like the feel a lot-- much more precise than the sloppy vaccum brakes.

Have you driven newer GM brakes? YUK!