Best MPG
i run my truck about 65 to 70 and that is about 1800 to 2000 rpm. i have noticed once i get over 2000 rpm it really kills the mileage. going to do the tone ring mod and remove the silencer ring on the intake. hope that all changes something for me in the good way
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
One of my favorites is to drive down hill all the time. But I can't seem to make it work?
Seriously, there are not many topics more talked about than this one. Some improvment can be made to stock trucks with timing. But driving slower, accelerating easier and keeping the RPM down are the biggest helpers.
Seriously, there are not many topics more talked about than this one. Some improvment can be made to stock trucks with timing. But driving slower, accelerating easier and keeping the RPM down are the biggest helpers.
Trending Topics
Wait til spring...
"Wait til spring" isn't entirely a joke.
Winter blend fuel affects mileage quite a bit (1-3 mpg). Cold weather idling doesn't help.
Stay off the skinny, keep your tires at the correct pressure, avoid short trips, and wait til spring.
Winter blend fuel affects mileage quite a bit (1-3 mpg). Cold weather idling doesn't help.
Stay off the skinny, keep your tires at the correct pressure, avoid short trips, and wait til spring.
These trucks are very speed sensative. On the highway I generally get 17-18, at 75-80mph. A week ago I was driving in a snowstorm in Ohio. I was in 2wd, but speed down to a steady 50mph, no cruise control. For that 4 hours, I averaged 22mpg.
I find that 1,725/50-rpm is the magic point. 58/9-mph, and on two dozen 600-mile roundtrips never less than 24 mpg (empty, loaded, rain, traffic, cold, hot). High of 27 several times.
No real benefit in going lower, BUT huge (relative) drop off as rpms rise. Versus 67 mph (my top speed otherwise) this adds an irrelevant 1/2-hour to each leg.
Versus a 17-mpg 4WD this means 172 gallons saved, or an additional five [5] tanks of fuel over just 10,000 miles; twelve [12] fill-ups versus seventeen [17].
If fuel ever gets back near $5/gl, then the difference is $850 every 10,000 miles (current spread is close to $500). At the current $2.70/gl, my cost doesn't rise to "yours" until fuel hits $3.80/gl. You have to know your operating cost per mile (not just fuel cost), as IRS allows .57/mile deduction. You do have deductible miles, right?
Run 5-mph below limit in town, and 10-mph below limit on highway to get easiest benefit. Metro traffic flow speed is 15-mph, nationwide. Running 33 in a 35 instead of 37 may mean not having to stop.
Dropping off on highway avoids lane-changing, braking, packs-of-bunched-up-cretins, etc. Slowing down is emotional (childish feelings problem), so try it out. Running 67 is easy, running 72 is a pain because of the other "children".
Make no short trips (less than 30-miles); zero idle time; and drive so as to never use brakes (which will change all other habits).
If you get less than 100,000 miles out of brakes or tires, something is wrong (given oem tires). Dump the kiddie tuners, etc. All stock is best for longest life/lowest cost.
The average American now spends 17% of aftertax income on transportation. Fuel is a SMALL part of that. One must know the total cost per family FIRST. The usual dumb American thinks ownership is finance payment + fuel + miscellaneous, and never understands depreciation, etc. Go to EDMUNDS.com and see the "TRUE COST OF OWNERSHIP" page. Run the best approximation of YOUR numbers.
No real benefit in going lower, BUT huge (relative) drop off as rpms rise. Versus 67 mph (my top speed otherwise) this adds an irrelevant 1/2-hour to each leg.
Versus a 17-mpg 4WD this means 172 gallons saved, or an additional five [5] tanks of fuel over just 10,000 miles; twelve [12] fill-ups versus seventeen [17].
If fuel ever gets back near $5/gl, then the difference is $850 every 10,000 miles (current spread is close to $500). At the current $2.70/gl, my cost doesn't rise to "yours" until fuel hits $3.80/gl. You have to know your operating cost per mile (not just fuel cost), as IRS allows .57/mile deduction. You do have deductible miles, right?
Run 5-mph below limit in town, and 10-mph below limit on highway to get easiest benefit. Metro traffic flow speed is 15-mph, nationwide. Running 33 in a 35 instead of 37 may mean not having to stop.
Dropping off on highway avoids lane-changing, braking, packs-of-bunched-up-cretins, etc. Slowing down is emotional (childish feelings problem), so try it out. Running 67 is easy, running 72 is a pain because of the other "children".
Make no short trips (less than 30-miles); zero idle time; and drive so as to never use brakes (which will change all other habits).
If you get less than 100,000 miles out of brakes or tires, something is wrong (given oem tires). Dump the kiddie tuners, etc. All stock is best for longest life/lowest cost.
The average American now spends 17% of aftertax income on transportation. Fuel is a SMALL part of that. One must know the total cost per family FIRST. The usual dumb American thinks ownership is finance payment + fuel + miscellaneous, and never understands depreciation, etc. Go to EDMUNDS.com and see the "TRUE COST OF OWNERSHIP" page. Run the best approximation of YOUR numbers.
DTR's 'Wrench thrower...' And he aims for the gusto...
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 2,668
Likes: 3
From: Smith Valley, NV (sometimes Redwood City, CA)
Rednax,
I have a couple of points for you. Sorry, but I just can't buy that you are never getting less than 24 MPG, when loaded and/or in traffic. And second, a Smarty may be a "kiddie" tuner to you, but it has been long proven to help with mileage by advancing the timing.
My '04 will be turning over 200,000 miles soon and I know how to drive for mileage. But................
I have a couple of points for you. Sorry, but I just can't buy that you are never getting less than 24 MPG, when loaded and/or in traffic. And second, a Smarty may be a "kiddie" tuner to you, but it has been long proven to help with mileage by advancing the timing.
My '04 will be turning over 200,000 miles soon and I know how to drive for mileage. But................
Tone ring??? and the silencer ring won't achieve anything other than give you a headache from the constant ear piercing whistle....I put mine back in.
I get 24 to 26 miles a gallon. But only on the highway. I can get 730 miles to a tank. I set the cruise to 65. Make sure you run your tires as hard as your tires will safely allow. Allows change your oil at the correct intervals. And yes as in the previous postings stay away from 2000 rpms. My mileasge drops to 21 miles after that. I changed my muffler to a Magnaflow glasspack, and changed the air filter to a K&N cone type. With no chip or reprogramming.
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