Flash's suggestion from the "1 Hot Getrag" thread to observe the trans temp before doing any mods seems like a really good one. So I went ahead and installed the gauge and will do a little checking before I install the fast cooler.

http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_29.jpg
http://66.17.171.114/PhotoAlbum/Cars/Pics/CTD_30.jpg

I installed a new fill plug at the proper level and also a bung for the temp gauge. This way I can still use the original holes for an active cooler if that ever becomes necessary. I highly doubt it will...

So far I only took it out for about 30 minutes to ops check and make sure it wasn't leaking, about half highway and half stop-'n-go. It never went above 160 degrees. Ambient temp was 90 degrees. It is about 1 quart overfilled with a mix of mostly Royal Purple 10w30 and a quart of RP Syncromax was added for the top off.

I'll see how it does on some longer runs and towing a light load before I install the cooler. Initial impressions would seem to suggest the 'ol rag does just fine overfilled. At this point I would have to suspect that any "red hot smoking" Getrags (from the other thread) got that way pulling heavy loads and/or running low on fluid.

 

in the next week I will be installing my temp probe in the getrag. I will fill you all in as well on the temp #'s

 

Nice work.

 

COOOL! A Double Blind Study!

I really thing, that it,s going to take a load, and a long trip to see the high temps like............a couple hour trip or somthing!

 

It did for mine. Well I think my z-series trans temp gauge didn't start til like 150*. On a hot day, it would take a good hour at cruise speed for it to get over that. Then max it would run 180*. Empty, never loaded. Some guys said they seen hotter temps faster though..

 

It ran up to around 200 today on a long trip down the interstate. Seemed to stay about there under steady state 70mph cruising in 95 degree heat. I'd guess that's probably about normal and not anything to be concerned about in hot running conditions unloaded. But I suspect it doesn't bode well for heavier loads, towing, etc.

The thermal load probably goes up quite a bit and needs to be dissipated alot faster that it can do in stock form towing. I'll bet that goes a long way towards explaining the rag's reputation for failure. It's pretty clear to me that conventional oils would not stand up long to the temps this thing will generate towing in hot climates. Synthetics would help, but the real answer must be additional cooling capacity

I don't think I'm going to subject mine to any further loads without the cooler just for the sake of experimentation. I have enough info now to compare with after the cooler install. We'll see what the towing numbers show after that...

 

LOL Thanks for refering to my thread. Im fighting a few battles that are leading to my very hot temps, today 245 on the mark(which again I saw at 25,432 gross weight)

Here is my scenerio I have 3.54 gears and am pulling on hilly interstate, so I must run 4th alot. 4th gear sends my engine temps very very high, so I have to back off. So I run 5th to be in the better torque curve which is 70mph-75. If I can keep it there, it runs excellent. That's in turn pulling more heat through my tranny, and also sends my EGT's almost to dangerous levels. So my plan

4.10 or 4.56 gear. Truck is used for moderate to heavy towing only, dont care about mileage.
I plan to build a cooler and use a pump that will circulate my tranny oil.

I also plan a decent turbo upgrade since I dont have an I/C. I want more cold air in, and a smaller hot side to get her out.

 

Shucks, I see 245* just pulling 7200# of fiberglass. Oh yea, I gotta automatic

 

How are the 4.10 or 4.56's going to change anything for the better? In 5th, you're going to be near the RPM you were at in 4th w/ the 3.54's. If you're non IC you probably have that small radiator they come with, upgrade to an IC and the crossflow radiator and you'll be fine towing in 4th as far as cooling. Besides, isn't 4th the preferred gear to tow in anyway? As far as the turbo upgrade, that would also do better w/ an IC.

 

csramsey640 I would be changing your tranny oil vary often untill you can get some sort of cooler in it!

245

 

Ace, Thanks for the extra effort and time that it took to do this test so that the new cooler can have real life data on it!

THANKS AGAIN

 

Please explain this a little farther, as I, too, am non-intercooled; and, especially in this heat, am seeing scary high exhaust gas temperatures.

What turbo would you consider an upgrade; and, how would this upgrade turbo accomplish this??



Do you mean a smaller capacity exhaust-side on the turbo??

I am a little confused about the meaning.

Thanks.

 

Correct. Rear gears won't do anything for the tranny temp. That is strictly a function of friction through the box for a given load, and the oil's and case surface area's ability to dissipate it. This thermal transfer rate would normally be proportional to the load at any given ambient temperature for a system that can maintain a certain operating temperature at any given ambient temp under varying loads. That does NOT appear to be the case for the Getrag 360. It can't keep up, thermal dissipation-wise.

OBTW, the Fast Cooler showed up yesterday, and I am initially impressed with the package. There's about $20 worth of bolts and washers there, not to mention the coolers themselves, which appear to be fairly high-quality pieces, with fill and probe holes machined in and plugged. I think I'll get that installed this weekend...

 

csramsey640: get your hands on an I/C radiator asap, as I think that is the most limiting factor in your present equation. It goes with the general idea in this thread...heat dissipation...something the non I/C trucks do very poorly. With a good radiator, you'll be able to pull in 4th on the interstate--your engine will like the revs and your tranny will like pulling in direct drive. I truly think the bigger rad will bring you about 60% closer to how you want the truck to behave....without messing with rear gears and whatnot.

 

Radiator won't help with the trans much, if at all. The only link (literally) between engine temp and trans temp is the mating surface between the block and the bell housing.

Good radiators, coolers, fins, synthetic lubes. Use them everywhere if you tow in heat. Simple as that.