Maybe but Reg unleaded is still cheaper & works even when the trucks sitting out in the cold for a week unlike a tank heater which only works if the truck is running.
A heated tank will work better if you have 2 tanks 1 for Dino & the other for WVO/WMO that way you could start & stop on Dino & run it long enough to heat the waste tank.

 

You need a filter set-up that will filter down to between 1-5 microns... this can be built as cheap as $100- $1,000 depending on how much and how fast your want to produce filtered oil... i build mine for about $200 works great.

10-15% rug should be added to your storage barrel.. this will let the contamination settle out before tranfsering to your finishing drum... it will also thin out the oil to flow more like diesel

 

I agree with the others who advise no synthetic oils and no ATF. I don't know about hydraulic oil, but I personally wouldn't burn it. Power Service and other similar additives should be perfectly fine, and I've used PS with waste motor oil in my tank, and also with veggie oil.

Also, when we talk about WMO, we're talking strictly Waste Motor Oil. When I burn WMO, I only use the stuff that comes out of my truck. If it comes out of any gas engine, it's got a small amount of water content, which tends to form acids. That's a bad thing to put through your fuel system.

To help reduce the amount of soot that I was adding into my fuel when I added WMO, I would let the oil settle in gallon jugs for several months. After about 6 months, the top third of the jug would look pretty close to brand new oil, the middle third would be a little darker, and the bottom third would be pretty nasty. The bottom half-inch or so would be pretty sludgy. So with most of the soot settled out, I would pour about the top two-thirds of the gallon jug into my tank.

If you really can filter down to a nominal 1 micron, then that's great. If you find you're going through a lot of filter media, you might try my settling method before filtering it.

For the amount of oil, you'll probably get replies all over the map. I see that other posters here are burning 50% WMO with no issues. Personally, I never added more than 2 gallons per tank (30 gallons in my 1st gen; 35 in my current 2nd gen truck). But then my goal wasn't to burn as much WMO as I safely could--I simply wanted to increase the lubricity of my fuel, and it really doesn't take much to do that.

Finally, one thing that a lot of guys who replied to this thread have overlooked is that Dieselcarpenter is running a 91.5 first gen truck with a VE pump. That's a little different than those of you who are burning oil in a P-pumped 2nd gen truck. Your P7100 pumps are much beefier and put out much higher injection pressures--what works well for you might be a pile of crap for Dieselcarpenter, and in rare, extreme cases may even harm his VE pump. I burned WMO successfully in my 1992 1st gen truck, but do I think it's worth pointing out that the VE pump isn't the same as the P7100.

Mike

 

Hey diesel carpenter,

Where are you buying filters down to 1 micron ? I couldn't find them the last time I tried. My current filters are in the 10-15 micron range, but not as clean as you're using. Care to share where you get them ?


Thanks !


BTW,

I've been burning all the different blends of most of the oils that you mentioned (wmo, trans, gear) with no negative affects. I don't go over 10%, though.