Convert my truck to run veggie on oil
Convert my truck to run on veggie oil
Ok guys, I am getting slightly ticked at the fuel prices and the truck is getting expensive to run..
I want to pick up something like this: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...23&R=200306723
to store veggie oil in.
What else do I need to do to make this system work? I need to swap out the rubber fuel lines, correct?
I was thinking I could run the coolant lines (for heating the fuel in the tank) along the stack pipes to speed the heating process.
Throw some ideas at me.
Thanks!
I want to pick up something like this: http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/w...23&R=200306723
to store veggie oil in.
What else do I need to do to make this system work? I need to swap out the rubber fuel lines, correct?
I was thinking I could run the coolant lines (for heating the fuel in the tank) along the stack pipes to speed the heating process.
Throw some ideas at me.
Thanks!
Running on Waste Vegetable Oil is a simple matter. Check out these web sites;
Read at least the top Sticky Note here; http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb....51&f=159605551
A good company to check out for a kit would be; http://www.frybrid.com/test.htm there is a very good forum there as well.
The exhaust heat has been tried but without much luck. I believe you would be a lot better off using coolant heat. I prefer a two tank system with a seperate pump and filter for the WVO. The tank from Northern is used often, you will need at least a heated pickup for the oil in the tank, some attempt to heat the entire tank. This sort of depends on where you live and how cold it gets.
If you would like a set of schematics for a 12 valve Cummins please drop me a line at akghound[at]onewest.net
I'm happy to help anyway I can.
Ken Gardner
Read at least the top Sticky Note here; http://biodiesel.infopop.cc/eve/ubb....51&f=159605551
A good company to check out for a kit would be; http://www.frybrid.com/test.htm there is a very good forum there as well.
The exhaust heat has been tried but without much luck. I believe you would be a lot better off using coolant heat. I prefer a two tank system with a seperate pump and filter for the WVO. The tank from Northern is used often, you will need at least a heated pickup for the oil in the tank, some attempt to heat the entire tank. This sort of depends on where you live and how cold it gets.
If you would like a set of schematics for a 12 valve Cummins please drop me a line at akghound[at]onewest.net
I'm happy to help anyway I can.
Ken Gardner
I really can't explain everything you will need to convert to WVO, but in a nutshell, you need a complete separate tank, filter, and fuel pump system up to the lift pump, and a switch to use as you go back and forth. All of this needs to be heated to get the WVO to a temp of at least 140 degrees. I suggest you check out frybrid.com, greasecar.com. Google "SVO, or WVO" and poke around. It is not too hard to do, but it does take some work. As well, you will need a source of oil, sometimes a number of sources, a filter station at home, and space for it and storage for oil. You can buy kits, or do it yourself, but be careful and do your homework before jumping in.
You don't need to mess with the rubber lines, only the older trucks and cars have that problem. I would be very careful about using the stacks to heat the oil, as they probably get too hot and will damage the rubber hoses. Radiator water works just fine, and the pump is already there. If you want to speed up the heating process, plug in your block heater, along with a oil pan heater. You can add a in-line electric heater, like a vegatherm.
If aghound reads this thread and responds, he has some really good specific information that will help you understand and set up a veggie system. Gotta admit, it sure works for me, I fill my diesel tank about every 2000-3000 miles. I will be honest that this all takes time, because after the system is installed, you still have to mess around getting and filtering the oil, and it is pretty skanky stuff to work with. Also, unless your time is free, which it probably is not, then neither is the veg oil. It is a trade, and it is not for everybody, the thought of it is, but not the reality, but it sure is fun if it works!
You don't need to mess with the rubber lines, only the older trucks and cars have that problem. I would be very careful about using the stacks to heat the oil, as they probably get too hot and will damage the rubber hoses. Radiator water works just fine, and the pump is already there. If you want to speed up the heating process, plug in your block heater, along with a oil pan heater. You can add a in-line electric heater, like a vegatherm.
If aghound reads this thread and responds, he has some really good specific information that will help you understand and set up a veggie system. Gotta admit, it sure works for me, I fill my diesel tank about every 2000-3000 miles. I will be honest that this all takes time, because after the system is installed, you still have to mess around getting and filtering the oil, and it is pretty skanky stuff to work with. Also, unless your time is free, which it probably is not, then neither is the veg oil. It is a trade, and it is not for everybody, the thought of it is, but not the reality, but it sure is fun if it works!
You don't need to swap fuel lines. Just an easy method of filtering the WVO, the means to heat the WVO tank and lines and a setup to switch back and forth from warm up and shut down with regular diesel.
Personally I feel that converting the WVO to BD in a land based plant where you can just add the finished product straight to your tank is easier and if done with the apple seed method is cheaper to build. You do need a place to put it though.
There is also the big question on how filtered WVO effects engine longevity.
Many people have quit using it after pulling injectors and seeing how coked up they become.
Personally I feel that converting the WVO to BD in a land based plant where you can just add the finished product straight to your tank is easier and if done with the apple seed method is cheaper to build. You do need a place to put it though.
There is also the big question on how filtered WVO effects engine longevity.
Many people have quit using it after pulling injectors and seeing how coked up they become.
Maybe for a few weeks in the summer it might get warm enough to switch over, then you would be switching right back to flush the system.
That's why you're better off making WVO into BD, no heating the fuel up worries.
That's why you're better off making WVO into BD, no heating the fuel up worries.
There is also the big question on how filtered WVO effects engine longevity.
Many people have quit using it after pulling injectors and seeing how coked up they become.[/QUOTE]
Coked injectors come from using unheated oil. When unheated, forcing it through the injectors is like trying to spray butter out of a windex bottle. HEAT is very important to lower the viscosity of the oil.
A 15 mile trip is barely worth it, especially in winter. You will need to switch to diesel to clean the system for the start up.
Having a BD plant would be great, but if one is not close to you, you have little choice. I can buy BD, but it is still only 20% mix, but if that is only what is avaliable, then go for it.
Many people have quit using it after pulling injectors and seeing how coked up they become.[/QUOTE]
Coked injectors come from using unheated oil. When unheated, forcing it through the injectors is like trying to spray butter out of a windex bottle. HEAT is very important to lower the viscosity of the oil.
A 15 mile trip is barely worth it, especially in winter. You will need to switch to diesel to clean the system for the start up.
Having a BD plant would be great, but if one is not close to you, you have little choice. I can buy BD, but it is still only 20% mix, but if that is only what is avaliable, then go for it.
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Originally Posted by Chinookce
Are you guys talking about converting Veg oil to diesel fuel or running straight veg oil? I thought you didn't have to change anytihng on the truck to run the converted stuff.
If done correctly, there should be no problem with going the WVO route. It will take a different approach to the truck and how you use the different fuels. You will have to get used to starting and running diesel until the engine has warmed the WVO enough to switch over. If your truck will be sitting for a long time, enough for the WVO to cool, you will have to switch back to diesel during your last mile or two of driving to clean out the WVO, replacing it with diesel, so when you start up again with a cold engine, it will be on diesel. Once warm, the switch-over process begins again. For your 15 mile drive, unless you can preheat the engine, it may not be worth it. If my engine is stone cold during a cold snap, it can take a good 5 miles to get it up to temp, that is why I use various preheaters, and I can switch in 2 miles. Every driving habit is different, and I do not know anything about Biodiesel, but it would not hurt to explore that method if the WVO does not seem worth it.
Bio-d Question
How much cold can bio-d take? I wonder if in the cold of a Montana winter one would still have to heat bio-d to get it to flow?
Back to the topic ... WVO
On the WVO setup I have, the engine and oil are ready within 5 miles or less, even during sub-zero weather. I have a coolant heated fuel pickup in the tank, heated filter directly out of the WVO pump, heated lines from the filteer to the engine compartment. Here I have a coolent heatexchanger to boost the WVO temp. To lessen the switchover time I use a VegTherm 12 volt heater just ahead of the IP. On warmer days it is only needed for a few minutes at switchover time, however during the extreme cold weather I leave it on when I'm driving on WVO. Some put 110volt heaters in their tanks to shorten switch over time.
I'm sure, you certainly must drive the truck more then 15 miles at times. It is these times that running WVO would be a great cost saver. My one way trip to work is 22 miles, last month (34 actual days) I burned $40.00 in diesel, traveled about 1200 miles.
I spend about 2-4 hours a week gathering and filtering the WVO, since I give a lot to travelers as well as power the generator I process between 150-200 gallons a week. Stockpiling for winter now.
Ken Gardner
Back to the topic ... WVO
On the WVO setup I have, the engine and oil are ready within 5 miles or less, even during sub-zero weather. I have a coolant heated fuel pickup in the tank, heated filter directly out of the WVO pump, heated lines from the filteer to the engine compartment. Here I have a coolent heatexchanger to boost the WVO temp. To lessen the switchover time I use a VegTherm 12 volt heater just ahead of the IP. On warmer days it is only needed for a few minutes at switchover time, however during the extreme cold weather I leave it on when I'm driving on WVO. Some put 110volt heaters in their tanks to shorten switch over time.
I'm sure, you certainly must drive the truck more then 15 miles at times. It is these times that running WVO would be a great cost saver. My one way trip to work is 22 miles, last month (34 actual days) I burned $40.00 in diesel, traveled about 1200 miles.
I spend about 2-4 hours a week gathering and filtering the WVO, since I give a lot to travelers as well as power the generator I process between 150-200 gallons a week. Stockpiling for winter now.
Ken Gardner
Originally Posted by Baja
WOW! I am impressed, where do you get 150-200 gallons a week? Is the Frito-Lay company next door?
Ken Gardner
Im making my first test batch of Bio tonight using the Dr. Pepper method. If it goes well I will be setting up my appleseed in the next couple weeks. What is the gelling temp of bio if anyone knows? I live in Green Bay, WI and it gets pretty cold up here.


