so i start my truck up this morning and there is fuel leaking from that rubber grommet that the fuel heater pigtail goes into at the top of the fuel cannister.

is this a common problem, it just started for no apparent reason.

is this an easy fix?

is it a big deal to drive around with a small seeping fuel leak? it's pretty cold outside.

thanks for any info.

 

It is a reported problem according to Fritz's Dodgeram site, however there is no TSB or solution to the problem posted there. Maybe someone else can shed some more light on this subject....

 

just fyi, the parts guy at Cummins rocky mountain was unable to help as he said it was a dodge add-on part. the guy at chapman dodge was unable to do anything. i actually had to fax him a page out of my service manual. (he had faxed me a picture he was looking at and it was useless and incorrect, i don't know how they look up parts)

his final answer from Dodge was a "kit" that costed $1300. not a single part available for that entire cannister and all it's parts. can you believe that?

 

Had that problem and it is a common problem with this canister that has the o ring sealed fuel heater. Part discontinued and dealers sells a canister relocation kit for $600 bucks. The simple rubber o ring they don't sell. Previous post on this problem indicate that you can replace the o ring around the plastic plug with care and cutting the wire harness. Some just remove the heater and thread the hole with a 1/2 inch pipe tab and plug with pipe plug. This is what I did and it has never been a problem. I am sure that if you ask on this post you'll find someone that removed their canister when they installed a FASS or Airdog system and would be willing to sell it or past it to you if you pay the shipping.

 

would anyone like to sell their old fuel canister? or just the top piece (the head). will gladly pay shipping.

I'm in las vegas. thanks, kevin 702-443-1250

 

If you do a search, somewhere buried in all the jargon somebody had sucess with some kind of sealant. I've been looking for a replacement for about a yr now but they are always at a minimum over $200. Mine has yet to start leaking.

 

This has been written up on this forum. I had the same problem shortly after acquiring my '99. Disconnect the fuel lines and wiring. Remove the whole thing so you can work on it on the bench. You'll need some torx drivers to remove the fuel heater element from the top of the canister. After that, you can push the electrical pass-thru out, and see the o-ring. The hardest part for me was getting the wires out of the electrical connector so the new o-ring could be installed. If you had the right tool for getting the wires out of the connector, that would be easy. I used an o-ring that barely fit (from a $12.00 Harbor Freight o-ring assortment that has about a zillion o-rings), and smeared it with a little grease to convince it to go into the hole. It's been 3 years since I did it, with no leaks. Cost: 2 hours of my time, and probably 10 cents for the o-ring.
As for a replacement.... I have one from an '01 that I don't need (or want). It is DIFFERENT from the '99. It will bolt in place, but I'm pretty sure the fuel line plumbing is different, and possibly the WIF sensor and Fuel Heater connectors are dissimilar. Also, it's been out of the truck for over a year, so any o-rings in it will probably need to be replaced. I guess it wouldn't be much help, would it?

 

[QUOTE=Grider Pirate;2654227]This has been written up on this forum. I had the same problem shortly after acquiring my '99. Disconnect the fuel lines and wiring. Remove the whole thing so you can work on it on the bench. You'll need some torx drivers to remove the fuel heater element from the top of the canister. After that, you can push the electrical pass-thru out, and see the o-ring. The hardest part for me was getting the wires out of the electrical connector so the new o-ring could be installed. If you had the right tool for getting the wires out of the connector, that would be easy. I used an o-ring that barely fit (from a $12.00 Harbor Freight o-ring assortment that has about a zillion o-rings), and smeared it with a little grease to convince it to go into the hole. It's been 3 years since I did it, with no leaks. Cost: 2 hours of my time, and probably 10 cents for the o-ring.

Great info thanks!

 

i also have a O-ring set i bought from jc whitney years ago and thought of doing what you suggested, thanks for confirming there is a o-ring there. wasn't sure. what is amazing is that you can't buy any of the o-rings from dodge or cummins, from i ahve been told. crazy.

you couldn't stretch the oring over the element or connector?

thanks

 

thanks grider pilot, went to ace, bought 69 cent o-ring since my kit wasn't nearby.

hardest part was getting electrical connectors out of the wiring harness.

the BEST WAY to do this is with an 12 guage IV needle, if you happen to have one, works perfect.

also a tip to someone else who does this, the manual says to prime the cannister by running the transfer pump and loosening a fuel line. this works great for about 2 seconds until the cannister is full, then the remaining 23 seconds that the transfer pump runs, it pours diesel all over place, makes a bit of a mess.

 

You should close the line when fuel starts coming out.

 

yes, i actually would have LOVED to have done that but,,,,the manual said to loosen the banjo bolt on the injector pump supply, and it is sorta hard to get to plus i had loosened it quite a bit, so that (coupled with the rag pushed in all around it) made that idea undoable. IF i had just barely cracked the banjo bolt, maybe that would have worked.
i did desperately hunt for a fuse but oh well, lesson learned.

 

Dude! That's EXACTLY what I did the first time!!! I have the stains in the driveway to prove it!