I finally did it, spent the cash & purchased an Espar D5 setup. I installed it this weekend. It took about 7 hrs & that was a lot of going back & forth trying things ect ect. I'm going to try to post my install pics,
The PDF is the manual that comes with the kit from cummins. It has pretty good graphics of what to do & where to do it, but it has to be taken with a grain of salt.
I started out by disconnecting the batteries & running the heater hoses. The book says to run it over the passengers side but later decided to change it to run over the block directly to the drivers side. If it was left on the pass side, then I’d have to deal with heat shielding the hoses from the manifold & exhaust.
After running the hoses, I mounted the heater into the marked holes on the frame. The kit came with a sexy bracket the bolted right up, the only thing was that the bolts supplied with the kit (4X 8 x 1.5mm I think)-well, only 1 hole in the frame was tapped to accept those bolts. I managed to cut a starter thread in the other hole in the frame & then using a hammer & wrench-let the bolt cut its own threads (oh & I put a good dab of loctite on them just in case.)

Edit, I was able to resize my pdf. Enjoy

Fuse order: top to bottom
25amp, 20, 5

 

the The bracket mounts the heater behind the transfer case & infront of the fuel tank. The skid plates will guard it against any impact damage.

 

The wires in the kit were supposed to run thru the main grommet in the cab but there was no friggin way I was going to be able to manage to run another cable thru there-so I decided to drill a hole in the plastic firewall cover. I drilled a ½” hole & slid the cables thru without issue. I just put some silicone around to seal it back up.

 

I mounted the fuse holder & relay mnt to the back of the firewall.

 

After pushing the wires thru the firewall, next step was to hook up the electrical in the cab. The harness simply plugs into the blower motor & then is strung across to the drivers side under the dash

Next came the fuel system. Since I still had ¾ of a tank, I decided to siphon out as much as I could. I only dropped about 3/8 of a tank but it was enough.

Next came the hardest step of the whole job- accessing the top of the tank to Tee in the fuel supply for the heater. The real pain was trying to get into a very small area & play around with touchy fittings. I had a friend who’s a lot more bendy than me do this, but it worked out fine.
You need a extra deep 15mm socket (or open ended wrench) to lower the brackets holding the fuel tank up. I used 2 floor jacks to support it as I loosened off the nuts.

 

In the book, it shows the top of the tank but the fitting pattern is different from what I had. I guessed & used the smaller line (return line???) which was the forward most fitting. (what ever it was, it worked just fine)



Before lowering the tank, I removed the filler neck & overflow hoses.

 

We re-ran the coolant hoses across the top to keep away from the manifold. It worked really well & the hoses are mostly hidden under the firewall. The port coming out of the engine supplies coolant to the blockheater. This line is redirected to the suction on the heater unit. The discharge from the heater is then sent back to the cab. I removed the stock hose that once connected the engine directly to the heater core. I’ll keep it as a souvenir.


Pics of the hoses & electrical run along the frame-ignore the manual for this one. Zip ties & frame clamps are easy enough to install. Just keep it neat.



The air intake hose for the heater was routed above the heater & I used a self tapping screw to secure it to the box. It faces towards the rear of the truck & is protected by the skid plates & top of fuel tank.

 

after installing this once, I'd do it again in a heartbeat. it is really easy (with the exception of the fuel tank part...and that was only a pain....not hard.

Its sweet now, starting the truck with warm air blowing in your face...priceless.

I hope to be able to afford Espars new remote system that encorporates the 7 day timer into a 2way remote starter.....alowing you to program you heater from the house.....that'll be next year.

Cheers,

 

Wow great write up! I was debating on one of these myself but I go back and forth this would definately help me out if I did go ahead and do it! Can I ask where you bought the Espar from and how much you paid?

 

Vince,
PM'd you.

 

If I am looking at the picture right you have the black tubing as the exhaust.
The shiny stainless one is supposed to be the exhaust tube.The black tube the air inlet. When I installed mine a few months ago it came in the box like that already connected to the unit. On my 4.5 I had run the coolant hoses exactly like you did, I guess it is the most logical way. Did you tie wrap the coolant hoses to the lifting ring at the rear of the engine as I did? I have just ordered the muffler for it, I will post a picture when I get it done. I get too much attention when the unit runs.

Ken

 

sorry for the question but what is the purpose of this?

 

It is a diesel fired boiler that heats the coolant for engine and cab heat. Check it out at www.espar.com

 

keep the diesel fuel from gelling I think...

 

ok now i see looks like its for people in cold places not for me but nice write up