TDIwyse

It's been awhile since I looked at the SAE pumps. I don't have the specs in front of me but I'm thinking it was an SAE "A" flange that would fit the PTO. I recall several tractor supply places carried these type of pumps and also had pressure regulators as well. I recall them being very reasonably priced but no firm numbers are coming to mind.

If you make a bracket for the original power steering pump then you might need to alter the belt routing (and get a longer belt) so it snakes around a bit otherwise you may not have enough surface area of the belt on all the pulleys to keep it from slipping and destroying itself rapidly.

Nate Frame

this is all very confusing to me... There is a PTO on the front of the engine? Can you describe it, ill check in the pics you posted to see if I can get a look at it.

I would expect cummins to make things that would allow their engine to be easily adapted to many confugurations....like extra pulleys and stuff... let me know when you have more info on this.

91 toy extracab

why didnt you use a "A-SERIES" cummins engine.
instead of the b3.3

yours was a non-turbo?? did it have enough power??

reason i ask this is torque on the diesel engine go up to 135 ft. lbs at 1600 rpm for the "A-series" higher if b.3.3 used. the old gas engine v6 produced
150 ft lbs at 4500 rpm. so if i "crunched/compared" numbers the diesel is considerable higher in torque but less in hp or "brits" = bhp.

toqrue is more inportant in getting a vehicle moving right?? and hp more important towards higher rpms?

any info would be appreciated!!

91 toy extracab

why didnt you use a "A-SERIES" cummins engine.
instead of the b3.3

yours was a non-turbo?? did it have enough power??

reason i ask this is torque on the diesel engine go up to 135 ft. lbs at 1600 rpm for the "A-series" higher if b.3.3 used. the old gas engine v6 produced
150 ft lbs at 4500 rpm. so if i "crunched/compared" numbers the diesel is considerable higher in torque but less in hp or "brits" = bhp.

toqrue is more inportant in getting a vehicle moving right?? and hp more important towards higher rpms?

any info would be appreciated!!

91 toy extracab

TDIwyse
Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Iowa
Posts: 137


B3.3T Jeep YJ

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Thought some of you might get a kick out of my re-power project. It started with a 1990 YJ Jeep with a 4.2L inline 6 carb motor, AX-15 5spd tranny and 3.07 axles. The tranny and axles are important for adapter availability and rpm’s (with the 30 inch tires on the jeep I’m turning 1600 rpms , torque peak, at 59 mph).

I’ve wanted to do this type of project for quite some time. After many months of researching I came to the conclusion I wanted to use the Cummins B3.3T for the engine. This was due to its simplicity (all mechanical), relatively light weight (~560 lbs with starter, intake and exhaust manifolds, etc.), physical dimensions (it’s much shorter then the 3.9), local service/parts (the Cummins dealership in Cedar Rapids is first rate), cost ($3780 for everything including intake grid heater cold start option), good torque (215 lb-ft @ 1600). The trick was finding a way to convert the SAE bellhousing into something that would work with an automotive transmission . . . There’s a company called Phoenix Castings (http://www.phxgrp.com/transmission.htm) which makes just the item!

After talking with the old engineer there I decided to go with the SAE4 to GM small block adapter set, and then used an Advanced Adapters AX-15 to GM full bell housing kit. The pictures in this photo gallery will help visualize what these adapters look like and how they interface: http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tdiwys...?.dir=/ce56scd

I wanted to avoid doing any body lifts so I ended up having to cut some clearance areas into the hood. I then used a hood scoop to cover up the holes. If a person did a 1-2 inch body lift there would be no need to cut the hood.

So far I’m extremely happy with the result. It’s been 1.5 months since I started driving it. Have ~1300 miles on it and its running great. Getting 30-32 mpg on mixed driving. It has no problems going 75 mph on the interstate (although it’s loud – the aerodynamics are horrible). The acceleration is adequate (although some of the power monsters on here would certainly call it inadequate). There is lots of tweaking that could be done to increase the performance (all the injection pump settings are easily accessible and adding an intercooler could easily be done). This project still has lots of possibilities in the next few years

Hope you all enjoy the pictures.
__________________
2004 Cummins 4x4 Quad Cab SWB
2001 VW Jetta TDI
1990 YJ Jeep RePowered with 2006 B3.3T
which engine to use??

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

why didnt you use a "A-SERIES" cummins engine.
instead of the b3.3

yours was a non-turbo?? did it have enough power??

reason i ask this is torque on the diesel engine go up to 135 ft. lbs at 1600 rpm for the "A-series" higher if b.3.3 used. the old gas engine v6 produced
150 ft lbs at 4500 rpm. so if i "crunched/compared" numbers the diesel is considerable higher in torque but less in hp or "brits" = bhp.

toqrue is more inportant in getting a vehicle moving right?? and hp more important towards higher rpms?

any info would be appreciated!!

TDIwyse

Sorry, it's been awhile since I've checked the forums.

Mine was the B3.3T, which means it was the turbo version. 85 hp and 215 ft-lbs stock. As I said previously the stock engine was "adequate". I could do interstate speeds (70 mph) with no problems. Since adding the intercooler and turning up the fuel it is much more than adequate. I've redone some more G-force measurements with the accelerometer and on winter fuel I'm in the lower 300 ft-lbs and mid 120's for hp. EGT's are maxing out at ~1150 F.

I liked the B3.3T due to its reliablility (according to Cummins the B3.3 series has the lowest problems of any of their engine lines), all mechanical, excellent fuel economy, relatively light weight, and lots of low end torque.

It's also been doing very well with the extreme cold weather we are experiencing. -15F this morning. The fuel economy in this extremely cold, windy conditions has degraded to ~26-27 mpg for my back and forth to work trips. The trips are about 15 mls one way and even with cardboard covering the radiator it takes about half the trip to get to operating temps.

Oh, I'm approaching 9000 mls on the conversion and so far so good. No engine/transmission issues to report and the stock front axles/steering components seem to be holding up well.

dieselmedic

iwouldn't mind doing something like this with my '79 cj5

hutchman

Awesome read! There is hope for the Jeep owners and you have shown the way!

Hutch

TDIwyse

Thanks. I've been experimenting with vortex generators based upon Mitsubishi's work with the Evo Lancer. They were able to improve the Cd of an already streamlined sedan by ~2%. Not much improvement, but it was already streamlined to begin with.

(http://www.mitsubishi-motors.com/cor...004/16E_03.pdf)

The jeep has a "bluff body" shape at the rear and should benefit much more from this type of scheme than a sedan body shape. Did some roll down testing this past weekend with and without the VG's on the back of the jeep. At 70 mph I'm measuring about a 5-8% reduction in drag with the VG's on the jeep. At 50 mph I couldn't measure a statistically significant improvement in drag.

I've also convinced myself that during cold weather (~40 F and below) I get better fuel economy if I block off the intercooler. This is based on lots of tanks of fuel with and without the intercooler blocked off. It seems this mechanical engine has better thermal efficiency (as measured by fuel economy) at part load conditions with intake air temps above freezing. This seems to contradict what one would expect from a Carnot cycle, but the data sure shows it.

Oilguy

I have been thinking of getting those Airtabs for my cargo trailer... SO you are seeing a pretty decent Benefit!! 5-8% is a good decrease in wind drag! Post some pictures so we can see where you placed them... did you paint them to match or did you just stickem on there? Did you make them or did you purchase the tabs?

Oilguy

TDIwyse

I had looked at the Airtabs as well. Didn't want to shell out that much money at this time. Plus, part of the fun of this project has been the experimentation.

I ended up using black (matches the hard top), plastic garden stakes I found at Lowes and cut them to the approximate shape of the Mitsubishi tabs (I wanted to use plastic in case they came off while driving and wouldn't puncture someone's tires). The stakes look like a "T" when viewing then straight on. I used the flat portion of the "T" to adhere to the Jeep's hardtop with 3M outdoor double sided sticky tape. They are along the very rear portion of the top and sides of the jeep.

The jeep YJ with a hardtop has a published Coefficient of drag of Cd=0.58. This is horrible, and with something this bad it makes sense there should be some room for improvement.

I should update the photo gallery sometime. I'll try to get that done this week.

TDIwyse

Updated the photo gallery linked in the first post of this thread. It has the updated hp/torque curves, pictures of the final hood scoop and intercooler gasketing (forces the air through the intercooler), pictures of the front/rear mounts on the passenger side (hard to get good shots of those, the ones on the driver sides are similar), and the vortex generators as presently implemented.

91 toy extracab

NO problem info was great whats the difference between sae3 and sae4 drive on the back of the engine??

whu cant i bolt my old fly wheel directly to crank? with addapter plate bolted directly to engine block.

by the way i am going to try this in a 91 toyota that has a 4 inch lift kit and a v6 engine with extracab.

but only and main concern is finding a engine "short" enough.
fire wall to radiator is 30 inchs. so if engine is 27 inchs then there is 3 inchs for a electric fan.

so if you know the distance from front edge of the crank pully at front of engine to rear crank end and to rear of head and block ?? it would give me a better idea of howand what to pick to use.

thanks for previous info was very helpfull!!!1

Oilguy

So that is all you need to do to make a VG?


That seem really simple... Where did you get the idea to use those? I liked the Air tabs looks but they are $2.50 each and those look like they cost about a nickel each...

TDIwyse

If you look at picture "DSC00388" in the photo album you will see what the SAE rear end looks like. I suppose you could drill holls in your flywheel to bolt up to the rear of the engine but this will affect your clutch surface/flywheel interface. You have to make sure the distance between your trans and the flywheel are appropriate to ensure the clutch will engage the flywheel, the transmission shaft will engage some type of pilot bearing in the center of the flywheel, etc.

The SAE3 and 4 are two different sizes.

If you go to the cummins websight you will find this info, some of which has the dimensions you are looking for.

http://www.everytime.cummins.com/every/pdf/4087026.pdf
http://www.everytime.cummins.com/eve...sp#Agriculture
http://www.everytime.cummins.com/eve...ons/b33_ag.jsp