MikeyB

Wonder if this would work as a power steering unit for your Jeep?
http://www.islandnet.com/~canev/Kits...eeringKit.html

MikeyB

TDIwyse

Nice!

Two things concern me this. One is that my wife might want to drive the jeep more if it had power steering. The second is the amp draw. My 3.3 only has the 60 amp alternator which is adequate for my present setup. Adding this pump would overtax my electrical system. There is a larger alternator option for the 3.3 that I didn't get which would make this possible.

Thanks for the link.

TonyB

Large, >150A aftermarket alternators are readily available, as well as GM 1-wire alternators, depending upon how you want to appreach the issue.

Example: http://www.alternatorparts.com/

Not trying to push...just trying to educate

HTH

Tony

TDIwyse

Thanks for the information. I'm actually a novice at all this as I've never done anything remotely like this project before.

I'm about to use a Dakota Digital tach converter to take the "W" terminal of the B3.3's alternator and drive the jeep's tach input to get rpm information. It's my understanding that most diesel specific alternators like the one on the 3.3 have this special "W" terminal to give rpm information.

jhurst

Awesome!!

my '89 yj better not act up or its gettin a transplant!

TDIwyse

Put the alternator/tach interface unit on last night and now have a functional tach again. The product I used is this:
http://www.dakotadigital.com/index.c...rod/prd128.htm

It's hard to tell from their picture but the unit is about 3 in x 2in x 1 in. So I now have fully functional dash gauges again.

On the way into work this morning it was dark and raining so I had my headlights on, radio, the wipers going, and at idle at the stop lights my alternator was only keeping the battery voltage at about 13 volts. Hmmmm, I may have to upgrade my alternator after all . . .

TonyB

Use a real voltmeter...not the one in the dash, they are notoriously off! Try a DVM & read volts directly at the battery.

13V at idle is not too bad. What you really need to check is amperage output of the alternator. If the AMP output of the alternator is more than 50% fo it's rated capacity, then, yes, I'd look into a bigger alternator.

How many amps was the original alternator rated for? How many for the new alt?

Tony

TDIwyse

Good idea, I'll do that. The amp rating on the 3.3's standard alternator I ordered is only 60Amps. I calculated my electrical load in my jeep with my accessories and thought this would be adequate. There is a bigger alternator that's optional with the 3.3 I could've got that still had the "W" terminal I need to drive the tach. You pointed out there may be some larger aftermarket units with this terminal as well but I haven't gotten around to looking for them yet.

TonyB

It looks like you need the 'W' terminal for your tach....try the big truck stores...Rush Truck centers, Fleet Pride, Even Cummins for the alternator.

Some of the big trucks have to have an absolutely HUGE power budget & need the alternator(s) to power them!

HTH

Tony

Oilguy

You could just take the alt that you have to a good alt shop and have it reworked to the amps that you need.
I did that to my last PSD and I have it bumped to 200amps and the tech acted like they do it all the time... LOok in to it.
Oilguy

kennedy

What is a good source for the 3.3t?

TDIwyse

Got mine through the local Cummins dealer in Cedar Rapids. They handle a lot of them and were substantially less expensive than other places I had contacted.

Looks like Cummins has a common rail version making 304 ft-lbs that meets tier III emission's standards (http://www.cummins.com/cmi/content.j...true&menuId=4).

TDIwyse

Got my boost and egt gauges in. If you go to the yahoo photo link I've added a few pics showing the locations.

The nice thing is the exhaust was already drilled and taped from the factory and had two 1/8 NPT plugs in the holes. I'm using the hole that covers the front two cylinders as they are the farthest away from the intake port and should be the hottest (similiar to how our six cylinders have the hotest cylinder being the farthest away from the intake port).

The origininal cross over pipe had a 1/8 NPT port in it for ether injection for cold starting. When I added the intake gride heater I needed a new crossover pipe and lost the port. So I drilled and taped the grid heater for the boost connection.

I'm using the old crossover pipe to connect up a top mount intercooler. I have a late 80's mazda rotary turbo top mount intercooler which is just the right dimensions (2 inch in and out, and the input port lines up with the turbo and the down port comes off the bottom right above the engines intake port -- and it's looking like it'll fit under my black hood scoop that's already on the jeep). I wanted baseline egt and boost #'s before I start turning up the fuel and adding the intercooler.

The documents I received from the Cummins dealer many months ago which showed such things as max boost and egt's are right on. I'm seeing a max boost of 12.5-12.6 psi and max EGT's of ~960-970 F and the documents stated 12.77 psi and 970 F. I was originally concerned their EGT #'s were post turbo but it turns out they are pre turbo. This is good as it leaves lots of room for more fuel

So my question to the forum is in regards to how to approach the tuning. I was thinking about swapping in the intercooler right away and checking egt and boost (the intercooler by itself should improve the thermodynamic efficiency of the engine as I understand the Carnot cycle). Then turning up the fuel. Thinking if I keep the max EGT below 1200 F I should be good? I was thinking I could avoid increasing the boost since the intercooler should increase the air density at the same boost pressure. Is this correct thinking?

SHARPMACHINE

Awesome job!!

I have been ratholing all the info I can about a diesel jeep some day. I currently have one with a 4.2 and an auto.

TonyB

IF the same valves & seats are used on the 3.3 as the 5.9, yes. You may want to contact Cummins engineering to check deeper, before cooing a head or valves.

Yes...Remember the ideal gas law: pv=nrt Pressure, Volume, and R (gas constant) are constants...Number of molecules and Temperature are variable. rearranging the equation...PV/RT=N Basically, you want to maximize the Number of molecules (mass of air into system) To do that, you have minimize the temperature (denominator of eq.)

You can also compare before and after to estimate improvement...PV/R=nt...PVR are constants, so comparing existing (state 1) to proposed (state 2): n1t1=n2t2 or t1/t2=n2/n1... If t1=100f; t2=75f; =100/75=1.33 or 33% move volume of air into the cylinder! You'll have to take measurements to verify for your situation...these are just swag numbers.

HTH

Tony