Fred Swanson

DzT, everything you are saying is pointing possibly to a fuel issue.

DevilzTower

Thanks, I was just trying to list everything that I know could been an issue so incase I missed something someone could point it out or point me in the right direction ...

DevilzTower

Alright, finally got a few pictures now that the donor rig can actually be moved around without the use of a floor jack... in no particular order ...

Ramcharger ...



Donor 92



Ah, the project can begin

DevilzTower

I'm still chasing the fuel issue and am looking for some ideas ...

1. I pulled the bed and checked in the tank fuel filter, looked clean - so that's out.
2. I checked as much of the fuel line(s) as I could, it all looks is good condition - so that is probably out.
3. Tonight I pulled the lift pump on the block. After I pulled it I manually actuated the lever, she seemed to pump just fine. I checked the exact spot of the weep hole that's suppose to leak fuel if the diaphragm is shot, it looked good. So, I threw it all back together and started it up to purge the system of air - after she coughed a couple of times purging the air, it settled back down to where it was. I put a piece of cardboard directly underneath the weep hole to check for fuel ... nothing ... so cross that one off the list.

One thing the PO said while I was looking at the truck has stuck with me, he said the last time he was working on it, he fired it up, let her settle down in idle, then rev'd it up and she came up just fine, pulled it out of the garage to road test it, then it coughed just like it does now ...this lead me to believe that it wasn't the injection pump since it wouldn't ever (I would think) rev up properly if the injection pump was shot regardless ... thoughts?

One more thing I should add about the symptoms, is that if you bring the revs up slowly it'll climb pretty far before it starts to stumble, if you jump on the pedal she coughs immediately.

Oh for your viewing pleasure, an engine shot, yes I have some parts running to do ...

apwatson50

Have you changed the fuel filter? If so I would still put a new lift pump on. One other thing I might try is a jumper wire from the batter to the shut-off solenoid.

DevilzTower

thanks for the tip, I'll try the fuel solenoid tomorrow. The fuel filter looks new (I think the PO was hoping this was the problem and threw on the fuel filter), but I may just throw on another one since I bought one thinking it would be the first thing to check. Maybe I'll throw in the lift pump just for grins, since I've already pulled it out and threw her back in, should be pretty easy to finish off.

DevilzTower

checked out the truck over the weekend ...

Fuel Solenoid - doesn't work with the truck electrics... jumped it, works just fine. The truck runs a heck of a lot better with the solenoid hot wired, but still misses on the top end.

KSB - doesn't work at all ... straight from the battery, no clicking, definitely need a new one.

apwatson50

I don't think the KSB will necessarily "click", if you hot wire it, does the sound of the engine change at all?

Also just because the filter looks new on the outside doesn't mean its new on the inside. A slightly clogged filter could be your "miss" at high rpms, or a weak lift pump.

I would recommend changing the wire ends on the solenoid to a ring type and use the post to screw them down. The center of the solenoid has a screw terminal, using this type guarantee's you a good connection. Also check the fusible links under the drivers hood hinge for any that are burnt up for you're lack of power.

Aaron

DevilzTower

Point taken on the filter. I think I'm also going to just throw in the new lift pump, it's only a 100 bucks and the current one has got 200K on it, I don't plan on turning this thing up enough to require a AD or FASS so at least I shouldn't have to replace this part again.

I hot wired the KSB with the engine off so I could listen for the solenoid. I'll give it a shot with her running to see if I can hear something different in the motor. The reason I thought it definitely needed to be replaced if it didn't click is 'cause that's what the FSM stated. But I'm learning that the FSM isn't nearly as descriptive in some regards as I'd like it to be. Considering that from the FSM I thought if the fuel solenoid wasn' working right, the truck wouldn't even start, guess that was completely wrong ...grrrr

Good idea on the KSB wire connection, that would definitely get rid of the electrical gremlin. I might give this a shot at the fuel solenoid as well.

patdaly

DT, at least on the 4B there are 2 types of KSB, one is called a wax motor style, and uses the electricity to heat up a stick of wax which pushes the plunger out, so that style definitely would not click.

apwatson50

I meant at the fuel solenoid for the electrical connection, that way it doesn't die on you in the middle of an intersection because a spade connector came loose. I don't know if you can do it on the KSB but if you can might as well.

Also good point on the 2 different types of KSB's, what year of truck did you're engine come from?

DevilzTower

Oh gotcha, well both the KSB and the fuel solenoid connections can be done, the KSB is a single wire lead, the fuel solenoid is a two wire lead. Tonight was the first night I realized there was a 2nd lead and it was disconnected ... maybe that has something to do with what's going on, but tomorrow I'm going to finish switching over the electrical connections on both the KSB and the fuel to loop type and fire her up.

Manufacturers date on the engine plate is 05-06-92, I don't know how long of a lead time it was between the Cummins factory and Chrysler so it could be a late 92 or early 93, the PO stated it was 92.

apwatson50

So it is the newer intercooled style, so it has the type of KSB where when it has power it advances timing. Yes on the shut down solenoid 1 wire is the main power, the other wire is the ksb power wire, but it runs through the intake temp sensor first.

So power for the KSB comes from the connection at the fuel solenoid, but goes through the intake temp sensor.

make sense?

Aaron

DevilzTower

Yup, it does ...

And I'm extremely happy to report after replacing the fuel filter, lift pump, fixing the connections on the KSB and the fuel solenoid she's running good now.

I also found some interesting wiring around the fuseable (sp?) links, have to diagnose that later.

Thanks so much for the help and getting her back on track. Fred and patdaly ... thanks as well.

Now all that's left, is everything ... tool shopping here I come!

DevilzTower

Well, I'm having a pretty good Memorial Day weekend ...

So far I've: dropped the driveshafts, muffler, X-case and am almost ready to pull the core support, but I'm running into a snag while pulling the transmission.

I've pulled the crossmember, pulled the slave cylinder completely off, pulled the 4 main bolts that hold the tranmission to the clutch housing but I flat out can't get the transmission to release from the clutch housing. I've looked a few times for a fastener I might have missed, can't find any so far.

Is there some trick to pulling the transmission that isn't in the FSM?

TIA