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1974 W200 Crew Progject

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Old Nov 14, 2016 | 08:13 PM
  #61  
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From: BFE, Pennsyltucky
Thanks man!!! The cab is coming off one more time in order to clearance the bellhousing and maybe rework part of the floor, OR I will just put a 1" piece of permaslat or tube on top of the body mounts to clearance everything.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 05:47 PM
  #62  
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Slight change of plans. Based on cost and appearance I've decided to keep the 74 dash. In the future I will add a stand alone underdash AC unit and I'm going to use a 5 Guage Autometer kit. The old harness is good enough to run the turn signals and marker lights. The rest will be circuits with push buttons and toggle switches. And a manual pump shut down. I'm going with the KISS approach.
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Old Nov 22, 2016 | 05:50 PM
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Front and rear glass is out. I wire wheeled, chassis savered, and sealed all the seams. Little jobs like this take more time than estimated, but in the long run are well worth doing imo.
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 08:45 PM
  #64  
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I have to move the bulkhead connector 1.5" to the left in order to clear the clutch assembly
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Old Nov 25, 2016 | 08:47 PM
  #65  
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The clutch master cylinder mounts about 0.625" into the firewall based on thexperience measurements from the donor.
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 08:11 AM
  #66  
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I had to move the bulkhead over as well on my '85 crews as well.
Drilling the holes for that hydro clutch bracket is a fun game.
Enjoy the holiday weekend to get a little work done on the old crew cab.
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Old Nov 26, 2016 | 08:20 AM
  #67  
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Originally Posted by oliver foster
I had to move the bulkhead over as well on my '85 crews as well.
Drilling the holes for that hydro clutch bracket is a fun game.
Enjoy the holiday weekend to get a little work done on the old crew cab.
Man you aren't kidding. I have the gauges and the gauge cover out of the dash which helped, and I used an angle air drill, but its still tight. I ended up breaking 2 drill bits to shorten and regrind them. Plan for this weekend is getting the clutch hydros working and start on the brakes.
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 07:25 PM
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Well, not many pics to post. But the check-off list to date is: reinstall and seal windshield, install rear slider window, run new NiCopp brake lines, new brake hoses, rebuild front calipers, bleed brakes, test fire the CTD dry (fired right up running out of a can), hook up the steering, pulled the bed off and started installing RamCharger fuel tank, installed 1st Gen throttle pedal, and probably hours of tedious other stuff. I hope to have it moving on its own soon.
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Old Jan 2, 2017 | 07:31 PM
  #69  
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I plan to use the older grill and modify the core support to fit the grill
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 07:30 AM
  #70  
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Nice work!
Keeping the cool old Powerwagon grille and modifying the core support / moving the head light buckets to fit it will be worth the effort.
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Old Jan 4, 2017 | 12:22 PM
  #71  
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Originally Posted by oliver foster
Nice work!
Keeping the cool old Powerwagon grille and modifying the core support / moving the head light buckets to fit it will be worth the effort.
Thanks! Yeah that's the plan, I have a '76 core support, with the bottom rusted off, that I will cut the headlight buckets out of and weld into the I/C support.

Making the birdbath hood latch work may become an interesting project.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 11:29 AM
  #72  
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I knocked the rivets out of the rear cross member and removed it.
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Old Jan 5, 2017 | 11:31 AM
  #73  
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Drilled the frame for the RamCharger fuel tank crossmembers and test fit the tank. I plan to fab the tank straps out of 20 gauge stainless
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 08:40 PM
  #74  
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I got my tank straps fabbed from 14 gauge stainless and installed. They should outlast the truck.
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Old Jan 15, 2017 | 08:49 PM
  #75  
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The OE sender won't jive with Autometer gauge I am using, and I didn't want to drill another hole in a perfectly good tank. So I decided to fab the Autometer variable resistor and float onto the OE sender.
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