1966BT Dodge Camper Special Resto/Mod
#31
This thread needs some updating..
Mid January I pulled the stock vaccum pump and power steering pump off the motor. Prior to the sending the assembly to PSC for a high flow pump, I had a friend machine a pair of aluminum plugs to close the vacuum ports.
I received several parts orders and picked up a late model 14 bolt.
Motor mounts (that may or may not work..... :bang: )
Axle truss for the front D60:
Diff. covers:
Couplers (for the tube that will span between the coil over hoops, and run over the engine):
Below are some pictures of the 14bolt axle out of an '06 2500HD. I like the idea of running this axle because it has factory disc brakes with an integrated parking break from the factory.
14bolts are known their beefy center sections, 10.5 ring gear, and 3rd pinion support bearing. The newer 14b's have disc brakes; the calipers are dial pistion and the rotors slip on.
This one has 4.10s (and a posi) that match the ratio in the D60. I was hoping not to have replace a bunch of parts on it but it needs all new e-brake hardware..
Super *%cked e-brake hardware:
Slip fit rotors:
Mid January I pulled the stock vaccum pump and power steering pump off the motor. Prior to the sending the assembly to PSC for a high flow pump, I had a friend machine a pair of aluminum plugs to close the vacuum ports.
I received several parts orders and picked up a late model 14 bolt.
Motor mounts (that may or may not work..... :bang: )
Axle truss for the front D60:
Diff. covers:
Couplers (for the tube that will span between the coil over hoops, and run over the engine):
Below are some pictures of the 14bolt axle out of an '06 2500HD. I like the idea of running this axle because it has factory disc brakes with an integrated parking break from the factory.
14bolts are known their beefy center sections, 10.5 ring gear, and 3rd pinion support bearing. The newer 14b's have disc brakes; the calipers are dial pistion and the rotors slip on.
This one has 4.10s (and a posi) that match the ratio in the D60. I was hoping not to have replace a bunch of parts on it but it needs all new e-brake hardware..
Super *%cked e-brake hardware:
Slip fit rotors:
#32
#33
It's been a busy couple of weeks. After tearing the '91 D350 down, Carl and I hauled it to the recylcer which made quick work of turning it into a steel pancake.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IiGcz2_XKs
I've since been focusing on the frame; I decided to back half it; putting new material in place to mount the airbags and the goose neck mount. I cross braced the rear half w/1" x 16ga. square tube then cut the last 8' off the frame.
I had it media blasted this past Friday and am ready to start mocking up the 6BT.
You can't beat an electromagnetic base drill press. U
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6IiGcz2_XKs
I've since been focusing on the frame; I decided to back half it; putting new material in place to mount the airbags and the goose neck mount. I cross braced the rear half w/1" x 16ga. square tube then cut the last 8' off the frame.
I had it media blasted this past Friday and am ready to start mocking up the 6BT.
You can't beat an electromagnetic base drill press. U
#34
#35
I started welding together the link mounts for the front suspension. I'm going with 3/4" hardware so I started by drilling the plates to 3/4"
I then started welding the brackets together using some mock up Grade 5 hardware and these aluminum spacers that I had made to 0.01" wider than the actual suspension joints. The thought is that when the brackets cool, that the steel doesn't pull together, preventing the suspension joints from going in. I accomplished the same thing with tape during the CJ build but I wanted to something better this go around.
It worked great because the joints went right in after the brackets cooled.
This is roughly where the brackets will go..
I then started welding the brackets together using some mock up Grade 5 hardware and these aluminum spacers that I had made to 0.01" wider than the actual suspension joints. The thought is that when the brackets cool, that the steel doesn't pull together, preventing the suspension joints from going in. I accomplished the same thing with tape during the CJ build but I wanted to something better this go around.
It worked great because the joints went right in after the brackets cooled.
This is roughly where the brackets will go..
#36
I stripped and trimmed the firewall to clear the #6 valve cover. I know I've seen it before but some please remind me of the significance of the number on the firewall?
Thanks to my six buddies that came over this evening to help put the cab back on the frame. I'm using the Energy Suspension '72+ body mount kit.
I hope to get going with the motor mounts Friday.
Thanks to my six buddies that came over this evening to help put the cab back on the frame. I'm using the Energy Suspension '72+ body mount kit.
I hope to get going with the motor mounts Friday.
#37
PSC fixed their mistake and sent the pump back with the correct reservoir can free of charge.
I've been working on getting the engine in place, it's been slow going but I hope to be there in the next two weeks or so.
I started out by leveling the frame:
With the firewall cut and with my mod'd motor mounts, I got the engine as far back as I could before things started interefering.
I took some measurements and put this diagram together real quick so I had something to refer to once I get rolling. From it's current position, I'd like to bring the motor back 2" and down 3"
That'll leave 1" between the firewall and the downpipe; .5" once I go to 4" exhaust. It'll be tight to remove the #6 valve cover but I'll double check it once I have the motor roughed in.
I've been working on getting the engine in place, it's been slow going but I hope to be there in the next two weeks or so.
I started out by leveling the frame:
With the firewall cut and with my mod'd motor mounts, I got the engine as far back as I could before things started interefering.
I took some measurements and put this diagram together real quick so I had something to refer to once I get rolling. From it's current position, I'd like to bring the motor back 2" and down 3"
That'll leave 1" between the firewall and the downpipe; .5" once I go to 4" exhaust. It'll be tight to remove the #6 valve cover but I'll double check it once I have the motor roughed in.
#39
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So hows the build coming I know I'm a late arrival but sweet build dude did you see the truck that was in the latest issue of Diesel Power? looks dang sharp!!
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