Ok drag racin dummy needs help.
06-17-2008, 01:38 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Marshfield, Missouri
Posts: 2,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Ok drag racin dummy needs help.
So I need to practice my launch ALOT. I ran a 14.1
with literally about a full second delay 
at the light in a truck that im possative could run deep n tha 12's. 4 passes and each one I screwed it up and got the "yer a moron" stare from the crowd each time. I did launch "better once with like a .063 and then I didnt have the turbo spooled.
Dude would inch me up, up, up and then im left sleepin at the light. How you sixers do it? Double foot? I couldnt get the turbo safely spooled from yeller ta green after the lights started jammin down tha tree.
I wish I had some video some more people couldve laughed at me.
It was fun but I need to practice.
with literally about a full second delay at the light in a truck that im possative could run deep n tha 12's. 4 passes and each one I screwed it up and got the "yer a moron" stare from the crowd each time. I did launch "better once with like a .063 and then I didnt have the turbo spooled.Dude would inch me up, up, up and then im left sleepin at the light. How you sixers do it? Double foot? I couldnt get the turbo safely spooled from yeller ta green after the lights started jammin down tha tree.
I wish I had some video some more people couldve laughed at me.
It was fun but I need to practice.
06-17-2008, 07:24 AM
#2
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Reaction time won't affect your ET at all. Have you tried a 3rd gear launch? What were your trap speeds? I was out there Saturday but had my arm in a sling due to a fracture and couldn't race. That was aggravating having to watch everyone else playing.
06-17-2008, 09:59 AM
#3
Registered User
Chances are you're leaving on a SportsMan's Tree, so I recommend launching on the last yellow after shallow staging; this moves much of the chassis reaction time from the ET into pre-race time. Practically, you initiate the ET with a rolling start...
You should save the fancy heel/toe & RPM blipping attempts to build boost until your basic technique is rock-solid steady and dead-nuts dependable.
Instead, just barely break the staging beam and touch the brake - the truck should stay right there (our heavy trucks don't like to roll off the tires' flat spot, so they tend to stay where you put them) so you can immediately modulate the launch RPM with your right foot.
2K-2500 RPM is the best place to start between launch bog & blowing the tires away when you come out of the hole, and experience will guide you to the launch RPM sweet spot for your particular combo. Basically, you're storing up pre-race kinetic energy in the reciprocating/rotating assemblies to release once the ET starts ticking. Just be sure to load the drivetrain to help prevent carnage - not enough to build load-boost (since that'd require another foot, heel/toe or LineLok), but enough to take all the slack/stack-up out to avoid driveline shock. Also, RPM alone will build a bit of boost... IIRC, an HE351 drives about 13psi @ 3500 RPM.
Clutch release is where most ETs are made or mangled - try not to either side-step the pedal or slip it like the sled is hooked! Release as quickly as you can without popping the clutch, and control bog by altering launch RPM.
Smaller diameter tires are a big help; not only because of their lower rotating inertia (and the power required to accelerate them - 10# off the shoes = 100# off the race weight for ET purposes), but also from the effective gearing benefit... you can launch in 3rd, not only eliminating a gear change (and one in the ET-sensitive part of the track - your 60' should show a healthy improvement), but the hardest one to make, and the shift most likely to be missed.
A 3rd gear launch should be well within the capabilities of even the stock clutch - the key is to avoid excess slippage... definitely reduces clutch lining life, though!
The most important thing is to be consistent as a driver - become a robotic extension of the machine, maintaining a routine that will allow the effect of changes made to be much more obvious.
If you wait for the green to start going, you'll always be a second behind with a slow-responding chassis/engine combo.
You should save the fancy heel/toe & RPM blipping attempts to build boost until your basic technique is rock-solid steady and dead-nuts dependable.
Instead, just barely break the staging beam and touch the brake - the truck should stay right there (our heavy trucks don't like to roll off the tires' flat spot, so they tend to stay where you put them) so you can immediately modulate the launch RPM with your right foot.
2K-2500 RPM is the best place to start between launch bog & blowing the tires away when you come out of the hole, and experience will guide you to the launch RPM sweet spot for your particular combo. Basically, you're storing up pre-race kinetic energy in the reciprocating/rotating assemblies to release once the ET starts ticking. Just be sure to load the drivetrain to help prevent carnage - not enough to build load-boost (since that'd require another foot, heel/toe or LineLok), but enough to take all the slack/stack-up out to avoid driveline shock. Also, RPM alone will build a bit of boost... IIRC, an HE351 drives about 13psi @ 3500 RPM.
Clutch release is where most ETs are made or mangled - try not to either side-step the pedal or slip it like the sled is hooked! Release as quickly as you can without popping the clutch, and control bog by altering launch RPM.
Smaller diameter tires are a big help; not only because of their lower rotating inertia (and the power required to accelerate them - 10# off the shoes = 100# off the race weight for ET purposes), but also from the effective gearing benefit... you can launch in 3rd, not only eliminating a gear change (and one in the ET-sensitive part of the track - your 60' should show a healthy improvement), but the hardest one to make, and the shift most likely to be missed.
A 3rd gear launch should be well within the capabilities of even the stock clutch - the key is to avoid excess slippage... definitely reduces clutch lining life, though!
The most important thing is to be consistent as a driver - become a robotic extension of the machine, maintaining a routine that will allow the effect of changes made to be much more obvious.
If you wait for the green to start going, you'll always be a second behind with a slow-responding chassis/engine combo.
06-17-2008, 12:14 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Marshfield, Missouri
Posts: 2,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I was doin a 3rd gear launch but I just wasnt buildin enough boost. 2 times it launched and 2 times it fell on its face. Once I got a 15.0 after it fell on its face I pushed n tha clutch and rev'd it back up.
Did you stay till the end? I was the guy in the silver single stacked dodge who looked like he didnt belong at a track
06-17-2008, 12:27 PM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Marshfield, Missouri
Posts: 2,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Chances are you're leaving on a SportsMan's Tree, so I recommend launching on the last yellow after shallow staging; this moves much of the chassis reaction time from the ET into pre-race time. Practically, you initiate the ET with a rolling start...
You should save the fancy heel/toe & RPM blipping attempts to build boost until your basic technique is rock-solid steady and dead-nuts dependable.
Instead, just barely break the staging beam (what happens when I stage? I never could tell when I was there?)and touch the brake - the truck should stay right there (our heavy trucks don't like to roll off the tires' flat spot, so they tend to stay where you put them) so you can immediately modulate the launch RPM with your right foot. (I dont know why but each time I would tap the brake I would still be rolling and once I busted tha light)
2K-2500 RPM is the best place to start between launch bog & blowing the tires away when you come out of the hole, and experience will guide you to the launch RPM sweet spot for your particular combo. Basically, you're storing up pre-race kinetic energy in the reciprocating/rotating assemblies to release once the ET starts ticking. Just be sure to load the drivetrain to help prevent carnage - not enough to build load-boost (since that'd require another foot, heel/toe or LineLok) (has anybody set up a Linelok on a 3rd gen? I couldnt find any info about a year ago when I was lookin), but enough to take all the slack/stack-up out to avoid driveline shock. Also, RPM alone will build a bit of boost... IIRC, an HE351 drives about 13psi @ 3500 RPM.
Clutch release is where most ETs are made or mangled - try not to either side-step the pedal or slip it like the sled is hooked! Release as quickly as you can without popping the clutch, and control bog by altering launch RPM.
Smaller diameter tires are a big help;(how pricey are steelies? I need some for some smaller tires) not only because of their lower rotating inertia (and the power required to accelerate them - 10# off the shoes = 100# off the race weight for ET purposes), but also from the effective gearing benefit... you can launch in 3rd, not only eliminating a gear change (and one in the ET-sensitive part of the track - your 60' should show a healthy improvement), but the hardest one to make, and the shift most likely to be missed.
A 3rd gear launch should be well within the capabilities of even the stock clutch - the key is to avoid excess slippage... definitely reduces clutch lining life, though! Im runnin a SBC DD 3850 but it still shifts good...I think.
The most important thing is to be consistent as a driver - become a robotic extension of the machine, (maybe here lies the real problem, im more like one of them plastic grabbers grampas use to keep from bending over rather than a robot) maintaining a routine that will allow the effect of changes made to be much more obvious.
If you wait for the green to start going, you'll always be a second behind with a slow-responding chassis/engine combo.
You should save the fancy heel/toe & RPM blipping attempts to build boost until your basic technique is rock-solid steady and dead-nuts dependable.
Instead, just barely break the staging beam (what happens when I stage? I never could tell when I was there?)and touch the brake - the truck should stay right there (our heavy trucks don't like to roll off the tires' flat spot, so they tend to stay where you put them) so you can immediately modulate the launch RPM with your right foot. (I dont know why but each time I would tap the brake I would still be rolling and once I busted tha light)
2K-2500 RPM is the best place to start between launch bog & blowing the tires away when you come out of the hole, and experience will guide you to the launch RPM sweet spot for your particular combo. Basically, you're storing up pre-race kinetic energy in the reciprocating/rotating assemblies to release once the ET starts ticking. Just be sure to load the drivetrain to help prevent carnage - not enough to build load-boost (since that'd require another foot, heel/toe or LineLok) (has anybody set up a Linelok on a 3rd gen? I couldnt find any info about a year ago when I was lookin), but enough to take all the slack/stack-up out to avoid driveline shock. Also, RPM alone will build a bit of boost... IIRC, an HE351 drives about 13psi @ 3500 RPM.
Clutch release is where most ETs are made or mangled - try not to either side-step the pedal or slip it like the sled is hooked! Release as quickly as you can without popping the clutch, and control bog by altering launch RPM.
Smaller diameter tires are a big help;(how pricey are steelies? I need some for some smaller tires) not only because of their lower rotating inertia (and the power required to accelerate them - 10# off the shoes = 100# off the race weight for ET purposes), but also from the effective gearing benefit... you can launch in 3rd, not only eliminating a gear change (and one in the ET-sensitive part of the track - your 60' should show a healthy improvement), but the hardest one to make, and the shift most likely to be missed.
A 3rd gear launch should be well within the capabilities of even the stock clutch - the key is to avoid excess slippage... definitely reduces clutch lining life, though!
Im runnin a SBC DD 3850 but it still shifts good...I think.The most important thing is to be consistent as a driver - become a robotic extension of the machine, (maybe here lies the real problem, im more like one of them plastic grabbers grampas use to keep from bending over rather than a robot) maintaining a routine that will allow the effect of changes made to be much more obvious.
If you wait for the green to start going, you'll always be a second behind with a slow-responding chassis/engine combo.
06-17-2008, 12:32 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Marshfield, Missouri
Posts: 2,191
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Also I need to find some better settings or switch to the 4.2 beta. On the TNT I get more lag. I dont remember what other settings I was running but I didnt have the TST or the MP8 on at all. I need a boost gauge that I can trust too.
Trending Topics
06-17-2008, 12:42 PM
#8
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The ET clocks start as soon as the tires break the beam. You can sit there for 20 minutes and then launch and run the same time. I stayed till they were just about finished with the brackets and then peeled. I was parked in the shade at the back of the staging lanes in my white quad cab. The wife and I were walking back and forth between the track and our chairs. I didn't really feel up to standing out in the heat all afternoon with my arm in this outfit. Sounds like you need a deserted back road to practice 4X4 launching on a few times. That's the best way to get a feel for it. A little trial and error with less public embarrassment. Packmule does a good job of launching his truck. You might hit him up over on the show-me-smoker site about meeting you at the track sometime. I'm sure he would be willing to help if you catch him "early" enough in the evening.
I wish Blevin's truck would have been running. I think he will run somewhere in the 11s the next time out since he has ran a 12.03. He was there watching also. I think I've got a 12.7 in mine without the spray and I have no idea as to what it will run with it.
Sounds like you need a deserted back road to practice 4X4 launching on a few times. That's the best way to get a feel for it. A little trial and error with less public embarrassment. Packmule does a good job of launching his truck. You might hit him up over on the show-me-smoker site about meeting you at the track sometime. I'm sure he would be willing to help if you catch him "early" enough in the evening. I wish Blevin's truck would have been running. I think he will run somewhere in the 11s the next time out since he has ran a 12.03. He was there watching also. I think I've got a 12.7 in mine without the spray and I have no idea as to what it will run with it.
06-17-2008, 12:51 PM
#9
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've never tried dropping my spare and I have a fifth wheel airgate that I don't think weighs enough to warrant pulling it off. I don't think you will notice a difference in traction if your launching in 4X4. Dropping the spare won't affect it much on the traction issue. The shorter tires would make an ET difference though. I'm switching back to a highway treaded 265 on my truck this time around and I'm hoping I can hook with them as good as I do with the 285s. I usually pull 1.66 to 1.72 60 foot times with the 285s.
06-17-2008, 01:18 PM
#10
Registered User
When the leading edge of the front tires break the 1st staging beam, the small top yellow light illuminates; after the trailing edge of the front tires passes that beam, the other small yellow light comes on - and you're staged!
Going further towards the starting beam would be deep staging (what's the rollout - like 24"? ... having a mental block!).
A couple of clicks on the E-brake will do in a pinch (especially if you have long arms), but the LineLok is easy to set up - it taps right into the driver's side brake Tee located in the fenderwell.
I would stick with lighter alloy wheels, and the Toyo Proxes ST in 285/60/R17 flavor have the best numbers for a drag application... it's kind of hard to find slicks that you'd be comfortable running under an 8K# truck at speed!
Drop the spare & tailgate, and anything else hefty that you don't need to go fast... I doubt you're traction challenged - especially launching in 4WD.
p.s. I forgot to post earlier that when the last yellow lights - jam the skinny pedal through the firewall & leave it there until you trip the lights on the big end!
Going further towards the starting beam would be deep staging (what's the rollout - like 24"? ... having a mental block!).
A couple of clicks on the E-brake will do in a pinch (especially if you have long arms
), but the LineLok is easy to set up - it taps right into the driver's side brake Tee located in the fenderwell.I would stick with lighter alloy wheels, and the Toyo Proxes ST in 285/60/R17 flavor have the best numbers for a drag application... it's kind of hard to find slicks that you'd be comfortable running under an 8K# truck at speed!
Drop the spare & tailgate, and anything else hefty that you don't need to go fast... I doubt you're traction challenged - especially launching in 4WD.
p.s. I forgot to post earlier that when the last yellow lights - jam the skinny pedal through the firewall & leave it there until you trip the lights on the big end!
06-17-2008, 01:30 PM
#11
Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Backwoods of Missouri CSA
Posts: 1,346
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
There was a truck at last years blackout running oversize slicks on all 4 corners and it gave you the *****'s just watching it run. And he was in the mid 12s. I've never seen death wobble as bad as he had. 12 inches on the rollout number between the prestage and the staged beam. The linelock would be a great idea for making things much easier.
06-21-2008, 01:09 PM
#13
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: Rolla, MO and Blytheville, AR
Posts: 411
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Yeah I need to get a clutch so I can pull a 3rd gear launch. The way I always do it is blipping the throttle, 2nd gear, 4wd, dumping the clutch. That worked out great with a stock charger that would spool right up, but that isn't the case with my silver bullet now. It bogs pretty bad now.
I was up there at that blackout race and I ran a best of 14.4 at 97mph. But I still have a stock clutch so I can't get to crazy with it. It was slippin a lil in 5th and 6th. If had a clutch that wouldn't slip and I could get it to launch, I believe I would have got into the 13s.
I was up there at that blackout race and I ran a best of 14.4 at 97mph. But I still have a stock clutch so I can't get to crazy with it. It was slippin a lil in 5th and 6th. If had a clutch that wouldn't slip and I could get it to launch, I believe I would have got into the 13s.
06-21-2008, 09:45 PM
#14
Banned
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Auburn Ohio
Posts: 1,470
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Tristan My best luck so far is to get staged and start blipping the throttle. I can get about 6-7psi. 2nd gear/4wd and let the clutch out easy(I don't dump it). I don't have any problem keeping my charger lit doing it that way. The 3 peddle approach builds tons of boost but kills the clutch and it is nearly impossible to stage. I'm runin the 1/4 next weekend I'll tell ya how it goes
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
homewrecker
3rd Gen High Performance and Accessories (5.9L Only)
40
10-02-2008 11:50 AM