I am going to run my truck down the drag strip for the first time to see how it does in the 1/4 mile. I would like a few tips on how to do this like how much boost I should build at the line. And should I do in 4 wheel drive or not. Any info would be a great help. Thanks for your time.

 

If you don't have a BD Rad your probably going to have launching issues with the 01.5. I'm assuming your race tranny has a billet input and output shaft? When bracket racing I launch at 15 pounds in 4X4 and pull mid 1.7 60 foots. If trying for a best ET try launching in the 20s on boost. Air your tires down to around 45 pounds. I've spun all 4 out past the tree on a hard launch it doesn't feel to good when that happens. I run 1.6 60 foot times and run in the high 12s with 20+ pound launches. Do you have a lock-up switch for the T/C clutch? I usually lock mine up as soon as I shift into 2nd and on some trucks there is ET to be gained by locking it in overdrive around 2800 rpm instead of letting it wind on out in drive. That is assuming you have the ability to lock your truck in OD.

 

Yeah if you have billet shafts in your trans you could go with a 15-20lb launch. Mine use to launch the best @ 18lbs but like already said. If you dont have a BD RAD module your truck is going to defuel when trying to build boost al the line, you'll prob only be able to make 10lbs or so without it. It's called torque managment, It's a program they put in the 01-02 trucks to save the drivelines from damage such as powerbraking and stuff like that.

Brett

 

Sounds like you’ve never driven down a drag strip before in any vehicle, not just in the truck, so here are a few basics. If you’ve been down the strip before, ignore the rest of my response and listen to the others’ advice (though some aren’t bad to look over even if you’ve been down the strip before)…

In preparation, empty the bed of the truck (safety requirement at most tracks, and it helps reduce weight). Clean out the cab of the truck of anything that is not permanently attached (again, two-fold purpose. The items can be projectiles in a wreck, and it helps save weight). Most tracks require full shoes, long pants and no cutoff shirts, with additional clothing requirements the quicker you run. It would also be a good idea to carry a helmet (and take to tech). Check your track’s requirements for the helmet, though I personally think it’s a good idea to wear one even if not required.

You will likely have to go through tech, where they will check for a few basic things. If your haven’t altered many things, shouldn’t be a problem… They will usually check to make sure batteries are tied down, there is a coolant recovery/catch can, and the neutral safety switch works (comes from the factory with all three, so unless you’ve modified them, should be OK). Other than that, they’ll look for obvious things like oil/transmission leaks, etc. Again, the quicker you go, the more stringent the requirements, but you should be fine with your truck.

As for making a pass, if you are running street tires, BYPASS the water box (as in, drive completely around it. Do NOT get the tires wet). With street tires, you generally accomplish nothing by doing a burnout except reducing tire life and dragging water up to the starting line (making other racer’s experience less pleasurable in the process). Make sure you have all accessories turned off (while fan is OK, do not run AC in staging lanes, as condensation will drip on the track). Before pulling around the water box, make sure your windows are rolled up, you are buckled in tight and have on all required safety gear.

When you pull up to the starting line, make sure you line the tires up in the two black streaks that run down the center of the lane (called the “groove”) and that the truck is facing straight down the track. That is where the track is the stickiest and you will get the best traction. You’d be amazed how many people (even in faster race cars) start out of the groove and/or lined up crooked.

When you approach the starting line, there are two sets of yellow bulbs you will light at the top of the Christmas tree (“prestage” and “stage”). This is one area where technique may change depending on what you are trying to accomplish. For this, I am assuming you are simply looking to produce the best ET your truck can produce. To do so, slowly roll until the “prestage” light comes on (similar to how you would roll to bump a curb in a parking spot). After you light the “prestage” light, STOP! You then want to barely “bump” the truck forward until the “stage” light just barely flickers on. STOP! Do not roll forward any further until you are ready to leave. This is what is called “shallow staging” and produces the best ET (but worst reaction time). The difference in staging technique can make almost a tenth of a second difference in ET (shallow stage, versus deep stage with the “prestage” light out). How you stage also affects your reaction time (inversely to ET), but if you are simply trying for the best ET, don’t worry about reaction time right now.

On a side note, if there is a vehicle in the other lane, it is common courtesy (and at some tracks for racing a track rule) to do what is called “courtesy” staging. Meaning once you or your opponent have “prestaged”, you should not “stage” until your opponent has also “prestaged”. Once both vehicles have “prestaged”, there is usually no rule about who “stages” first. Once the first vehicle has staged, there is a set amount of time the second vehicle has to stage (usually 7 to 10 seconds) before they will be given a red light and their pass is dq’d. Many newcomers in the street classes are not aware of courtesy staging, but it is an area that can make you look like a jerk if the person in the other lane expects it and you roll in and light both bulbs.

Once you have both staged, assuming they give you a “sportsman” tree, there will be three amber (yellow) lights that flash .5 second apart and then the green will come on .5 second after the last amber (on a “pro tree”, all three ambers flash at the same time, then the green comes on either .4 or .5 seconds after that – depending on the class and setup). You want to launch when the last amber light turns on (or for a “pro tree” when all three ambers flash). DO NOT wait for the green light to leave!!!! If you do, your reaction time will be horrible and anyone that might be in the other lane will be long gone before you ever leave the starting line. While reaction time does not affect your ET at all, it can make you look pretty silly when you are dead-late. Your lane’s timing clock does not start until you leave the starting line, regardless of how early or late that might be. Unless you are racing somebody, the reaction time is completely irrelevant, but you still don’t want to look silly. If your reaction time is too bad, you can actually cover the quarter mile quicker than your opponent and they still get to the finish line first.

Follow the other posters’ advice on what boost to launch at, where to shift, when to lock up, etc. They have much more experience racing turbo-boosted diesel trucks than I do and they offer sound advice.

As soon as you cross the finish line, begin to slow down in a controlled fashion. Before you make a pass, think through situations such as having no brakes, or the throttle being hung wide open, or your opponent crosses into your lane, and how you might react to those situations. Bad things happen quickly at 100+ mph and you need to be prepared to react quickly should something out of the ordinary happen. The first instinct, even in a relatively tame vehicle such as your truck, should be to lift off the throttle if something isn’t going right. “Live to play another day” so to speak…

As a general rule, the vehicle in the lane closest to the turnoff has the right-of-way to the turnoff road, though it is always a good idea to keep a sharp eye out on the top end. You’d be amazed how many wrecks happen at the turnoff! Most tracks have multiple turnoffs. Familiarize yourself with how many your track has and where they are located. DO NOT EVER turn around to come back to a turnoff!!!! There is a chance more vehicles are racing in your direction as you are headed for the turnoff. If you turn around, you risk a head-on collision with oncoming vehicles. Simply drive to the next turnoff.

Pick up your time slip at the ET shack, head back to the pits (or staging lanes), and do it all over again, trying to learn from what went well, or might not have gone so well. Have fun! I know I do every time I go to the track. Be safe!

In addition to the basics and the techniques already listed by others, as a general rule, weight = ET. The more weight you can remove, the quicker you will run. I’ve seen almost all the tricks, from basic to absurd (especially for a street vehicle). A few basics, like removing the spare tire and jack assemblies, to removing 1 battery (don’t really need 2 to make ¼ mile passes) are pretty easy and straight-forward. If the bed is empty, not much need for a heavy tailgate to hold stuff in… Run with the least amount of fuel you feel comfortable having in the vehicle. Stuff like that helps, though it doesn’t make as much of a difference in a 6000+lb vehicle as it would something lighter. As a general rule, the biggest yields come from lightening anything that rotates.

Getting to the more absurd, I’ve seen people remove the serpentine belt (GREATLY reduces parasitic losses, but also shuts off fan, water pump, power steering, alternator, etc). It is possible to remove the fan, but still keep the belt on… I’ve seen interiors gutted. I’ve seen frames, supports, bumpers and body panels (inside bed, inside door panels, inner fenders, etc) hit with hole-saws to look like Swiss cheese (or removed altogether). I’ve seen tires shaved down, or people change to a lighter and stickier wheel/tire package. People often use shorter than factory tires to effectively increase gear ratio and reduce rotating weight (35” tires may not be the best choice for acceleration). Synthetic fluids in everything (which has residual benefits as well). Bags of ice on the air horn and intercooler. These were just some tricks used on STREET vehicles.

I don’t even want to start on the stuff I’ve seen for full-blown race vehicles (but I’ll scratch the surface anyway). Let’s just say every little bit adds up and helps! If it isn’t absolutely necessary, it is fair game for consideration to get rid of and/or lighten. This goes for the driver too – I’ve seen some teams so concerned with weight, among other tricks, they shaved the soles of the driver’s shoes! Is a bolt really necessary? Do you need 6 to hold something on, or will 4 suffice? If the bolt is necessary, do you need the whole bolt, or can it be shortened, or gun-drilled, or do you need all the threads in the middle of the bolt, or can you take a few sides off the hex? EVERYTHING is subject to review for necessity and/or lightening. To point out ridiculous extremes, I have been around some pretty awesome drag cars that weighed less than 1000lbs WITH driver. There’s no hope of getting within 5x that amount with a stock(ish) 4x4 Cummins, but you get the idea.

It’s up to you to decide what you are hoping to accomplish and what you are willing to sacrifice. Did I mention, “Have fun!”?

 

thanks for all the info. If it dosent rain on the 7th of june I will post my time slip. Again thank you Garry.

 

Wow.... you put some time into this. I think it should be a sticky in every drag racing forum. Nice job.

My biggest pet peeve at the track with new racers is the light. DO NOT play at staging. Once the first stage is lit...get to the second stage in a timely manner. Unlike gassers, the TQ is going through hell holding a spooled truck at the line.

 

Well you dont have to buy a rad. i just took my truck to jim Jessup in Indiana and he reprogramed my truck so it dont cut the power when you spool it up. 812-873-7618 is his number he may be able to tell you were you can get the same thing done to your truck. It took about 5 min. and was only 100$.